Replacing T/P, using PVC?
jimbo said:
You can't use any PVC inside the house, and specifically never on water over 70º. You can use CPVC, but it is not recommended to connect that directly to the water heater.....you need about 18" of copper to keep the high heat off the plastic.
Thanks for the info. I got the idea that using PVC was OK based on another thread and a photo (Sorry, I don't know how to link to it or quote it, but it is pasted below). This is a gas water heater in an indoor laundry room. I have to cut off the old copper drain pipe to get out the old T/P valve because it goes straight down, then a 90 along the floor and outside through a hole in the wall, then another 90 elbow to the ground. Should I just get someone to sweat it back on using a new fitting into the new T/P valve? I thought putting in some kind of threaded connection would make it easier in the future. I guess I could achieve both objectives by sweating on at least 18" of copper, then putting in a connection to PVC (or CPVC?). Is that a good idea, or more trouble than it is worth?
As far as the other reply asking about the temperature, I'll have to check it. I don't think it is excessive, and I've kept the thermostat on low, but I haven't measured it yet.
Thanks again, and in advance for any advice. As you can tell, I'm a novice, but fairly intelligent and cautious, I think. I'll call in a professional at the first sign of trouble, or if replacing the T/P valve doesn't stop the excessive discharge. The T/P valve is missing the handle, so I think it should be replaced regardless of the drainage.
Lisa
The other thread that had the photo using PVC:
"07-04-2007, 11:58 AM
daddyslipdisk
Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
Replaced Pressure valve
Ok, Well I did a few things to try and remedy this problem. the first thing I did was replace the pressure valve. I also purchased a long PVC drain pipe that I attached to the pressure valve so that it just goes straight down to the floor and into a bucket instead of the long winding path it took before. My neighbor who is an HVAC guy for Coolray said that would be fine, but that it wouldn't pass inspection. He said that I would either need to have drainage put in there somehow or get the expansion tank. But he said for now my issue should be resolved and everything should be fine.
I turned the gas back on, lit the pilot and then turned the water back on. So far, there are no leaks at the pressure valve and no drainage coming out of the PVC pipe into the bucket. Actually, I just checked and there were like 2 drops in the bucket.
I figure that if I use the pressure switch each month, that should quell any concerns about pressure build up. Any thoughts? The new repairs are at
www.hortonwebdesign.com/heaterfix.htm and the old, bad configuration is at www.hortonwebdesign.com/heater.htm. I just want to make sure that I haven't made a ticking water heater bomb that will endanger my family."