Replacing multi-turn angle valve for toilet

[Betsy Callahan]

I had a 30 year old, all one single piece, multi turn valve connected on a pipe coming out of the wall, that is used to shut off the water coming to the toilet. There is no separate, threaded hose connected to the valve that goes to the toilet, it is all one steel (or aluminum) piece that connects to the bottom of the toilet from the valve and when I tried to connect it to an attachable toilet bidet, the metal, twisted, serrated, thin connector pipe piece between the valve and the toilet twisted and broke. I needed to replace the old valve and add a more up to date, separate hose to connect the new valve to the toilet. I got the old valve off and used a sleeve puller to get the brass compression sleeve and the old original nut off the pipe coming out of the wall, and the pipe coming out of the wall looked very smooth, clean and shiny. I think it is made of copper.

Anyway, I got the new valve on and connected everything up and when I turned the water on there is a very slow water drip, maybe 12 drops an hour, that comes from the space where the largest, first nut with the new compression sleeve that came with the new valve, meets the copper pipe, closest to the wall. This is the largest nut on the valve and it is the nut furthest from the valve you hand turn to shut the water on and off. This is the nut that is closest to the wall, and the drops form in the space between this nut and the pipe on the side of the nut that is closest to the wall. What did I do wrong? Am I supposed to crimp the compression sleeve onto the pipe some how? I thought threading the main part of the valve onto the the nut with the compression sleeve inside it, on the pipe would automatically tighten everything together, and make it water tight. To fix this do I have to start all over and what do I do differently? There are no other drips or leaks anywhere else on the connection between the valve and the bottom of the toilet tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Terry]

You might try a little thread sealant there the end of the threads meet the ferrule.
The paste kind. Or we also call it pipe dope.
The new shutoff with nut and ferrule should just slide on and then you tighten it up with wrenches. Sometimes I use either a bit of oil on the threads or just a touch of pipe dope.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DIYorBust]

How was the condition of the pipe before you put the ferrule on?

 

[Reach4]

Am I supposed to crimp the compression sleeve onto the pipe some how? I thought threading the main part of the valve onto the the nut with the compression sleeve inside it, on the pipe would automatically tighten everything together, and make it water tight.

You may be able to tighten it a bit more, even without adding dope or lube. My suggestion is don't be afraid of over-torquing if using two wrenches. More torque may be enough to stop the leak. Another 1/4 turn might do wonders.

With short wrenches, it is hard to get enough torque. I was afraid to crush the tubing on a compression fitting fitting that I was applying. It turned out that I was not applying enough torque, and I was in no danger of crushing the tube. When I took it a part and applied a little pipe dope to the ferrule (AKA olive in much of the world), used more torque... then no leak. Mine was not a toilet, so I had better access. I am not a plumber.

You may be able to use at least one longer wrench. Besides the limitation of short wrenches, it can be awkward to get good positioning. With some layouts, left hander might be able to get better torque with the short wrench, and while a long wrench on the valve body side could be handled by somebody reaching in from above.

 

[Sylvan]

I agree with Terry I happen to like Rectorseal 5

The guys who work for me use teflon tape on the ferrule 2 turns but it looks sloppy

Nothing beats rector seal 5 and lamp wick on slip joint behind the nylon washer

 

[hj]

REctor Seal, lamp wick, nylon washer? On a drain, maybe, but not a water compression joint.

 

[Sylvan]

REctor Seal, lamp wick, nylon washer? On a drain, maybe, but not a water compression joint.

 

[Sylvan]

REctor Seal, lamp wick, nylon washer? On a drain, maybe, but not a water compression joint.

I did say "Slip joint" not compression or flair . Slip joint = drainage and can be used on flushometer with back inlet with a slip ell normally 11/4

Also for top mounted spuds I also like using ball wick (lamp wick)

 

[hj]

There ARE "slip joint" compression stop connections, and this question WAS about a fixture stop, NOT drainage. We called "lamp wicking" "mop string". Whenever we needed some the boss would say, "where's the O'Cedar mop"?

 

[Sylvan]

Quick wick looks like thread The Lamp wick is usually a ball of cotton and used as a packing .

Even good for valve packing glands stems (Not steam) It is better than graphite as graphite can actually do damage to brass valve stems overtime

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ball-Wick-Spool-Wick-714000

 

[Betsy Callahan]

You might try a little thread sealant there the end of the threads meet the ferrule.
The paste kind. Or we also call it pipe dope.
The new shutoff with nut and ferrule should just slide on and then you tighten it up with wrenches. Sometimes I use either a bit of oil on the threads or just a touch of pipe dope.

Thanks Terry,

The picture you showed is what the old and new valves look like. I turned the main water off and I put paste sealant all along the back of the area where the leak was and the drip slowed down and now I think it is gone. If I try to tighten it would that help?

 

[Jadnashua]

The pipe dope does two things:
- helps to work as a lubricant so you can tighten it a bit easier (sometimes, the threads aren't the cleanest) - sometimes, just a little silicon or oil on the threads will work as well but won't do the next thing
- helps to seal what may be a close thing

If it stopped leaking, you should be golden. If you want, a slight additional tightening should do it on its own. This may be only 1/16th turn or so. Once it's that water tight, it doesn't take much more.

If you needed a ferrule puller to get the old one off, the old one slightly deformed the pipe. If there's excess pipe sticking out, and you'd have enough stub to still attach the new valve, you might just cut off that deformed part. But, the pipe dope and tightening it should work.

 

[Betsy Callahan]

The pipe dope does two things:
- helps to work as a lubricant so you can tighten it a bit easier (sometimes, the threads aren't the cleanest) - sometimes, just a little silicon or oil on the threads will work as well but won't do the next thing
- helps to seal what may be a close thing

If it stopped leaking, you should be golden. If you want, a slight additional tightening should do it on its own. This may be only 1/16th turn or so. Once it's that water tight, it doesn't take much more.

If you needed a ferrule puller to get the old one off, the old one slightly deformed the pipe. If there's excess pipe sticking out, and you'd have enough stub to still attach the new valve, you might just cut off that deformed part. But, the pipe dope and tightening it should work.

 

[Betsy Callahan]

Thanks Jim,
I tightened it another 1/4 turn using 2 wrenches and the leak started again, very slowly, like 2 drips an hour. I just left it alone after I tightened it like I did the first time and it has stopped leaking. The family has been using the toilet normally, and as of about 36 hours ago there has NOT been a single drop of water in the container I put below the pipe. I use a mirror and a flashlight to check the drip area 360 degrees around the area that the drips were coming from and there is no dripping at all. Would you think I am pretty much golden now?

 

[Jadnashua]

Nothing's certain in life, but if it's not leaking, you should be okay.