Putting submersible in a dug well, and adding a pitless adaptor.

[slowgsr]

So I have a 30" precast lined dug well. Its about 55 feet deep, and there's 12 feet of water in it. I just measured, its been a very dry year. Regardless the well provides us with clean water. I'm tired of listening to the 2 line jet pump, and I'm considering having my father in law move in.

I want to have the well fill a cistern, 3000 gal, which I will excavate.

My question is, if I get a 3/4 hp submersible, build a "stand" to support the pump horizontal down a few feet from the bottom of the well, and add a low water float to prevent the pump from running dry (I could attach this to my pump fixture).

I then need to add a pitless, since it looks as if a 4" 'sleeve' goes from my well to the house, which the jet put lines go through, I don't believe they're direct burried.

Do i take my mini ex, dig on the outside of the well to the water line, then put a 2 foot stainless nipple on a pitless, and leave 6" of the pitless in the well, hydraulic cement the interior, and exterior, and just adapt some poly to the nipple on the well outside then feed it indoor through the sleeve, and I could run a multi conductor teck cable into the well up at the top where I can splice for pump power, floats etc.

Then in my pump room I can setup my CSV etc which will come from a submersible in the cistern. The well pump will just keep the cistern full.

Ill just have the well pump run off a timing system providing the cistern float is calling for water and the low level float in the well is up.

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

You mount a pitless adapter on a stainless steel pipe that goes through the wall below the frost line.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/bored-well-total-equipment-replacement.80705/

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....o-greenhouse-through-unheated-building.69681/ #12

 

[Sponsor]

 

[slowgsr]

You mount a pitless adapter on a stainless steel pipe that goes through the wall below the frost line.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/bored-well-total-equipment-replacement.80705/

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....o-greenhouse-through-unheated-building.69681/ #12

hi thanks for the reply.

If I build a flow inducer set the pump on the bottom of my well use a well cap on the flow inducer and have the open end 90 up about 2 or 3 feet to prevent the pump from sucking any sand etc from the bottom how do I keep the pitless 'locked in' since the pump is on the bottom there will be no downward weight on the pitless. Thanks

 

[Reach4]

If I build a flow inducer set the pump on the bottom of my well use a well cap on the flow inducer and have the open end 90 up about 2 or 3 feet to prevent the pump from sucking any sand etc from the bottom how do I keep the pitless 'locked in' since the pump is on the bottom there will be no downward weight on the pitless.

Up 2 or 3 ft. I think the downward forces on the pitless is what keeps the pump assembly up 2 or 3 ft.

So if the pump is off of the bottom, there will be downward force. In the sketch below, a guy or strut is suggested to give more strength. A bumper is suggested to press against the wall of the well to reduce twisting forces on the pitless.

I am not a pro. Just ideas for your consideration.

 

[Boycedrilling]

You two are in search of a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. There is no "upward force" on the pitless adapter. You're over thinking the problem.

 

[slowgsr]

Up 2 or 3 ft. I think the downward forces on the pitless is what keeps the pump assembly up 2 or 3 ft.

So if the pump is off of the bottom, there will be downward force. In the sketch below, a guy or strut is suggested to give more strength. A bumper is suggested to press against the wall of the well to reduce twisting forces on the pitless.

ok. So maybe at the top of the well i could tapcon a small D ring to the wall of the casing, so I can adjust my guy wire tension to give good downward weight on the poly line to keep the pitless tight once the unit is on the well, and I can crimp it and hook to the d ring.

I could even set it on the bottom hook it up getting as much slack off the poly line as possible, then pull up on the guy to give it some tension, causing the pump assembly to just teeter on the flow inducer.

Luckly I have a 500 gallon rain barrel system with a separate pump that's backfed to my homes hose bib, I just shutoff my homes hose bib feed, but while working on my homes well. I could temporarily put my filter system in bypass and supply my home with rain water, at least to keep toilets flushing.

 

[slowgsr]

You two are in search of a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. There is no "upward force" on the pitless adapter. You're over thinking the problem.

with a flow inducer on the bottom, there wouldn't be the full weight of a pump and line hanging off the pitless, so I don't know if the pit less required downward pull to seal, of if as long as its engaged and the weight of my flow inducer/pump provides a slight downward pull that it will still seal. Thanks

 

[Reach4]

ok. So maybe at the top of the well i could tapcon a small D ring to the wall of the casing, so I can adjust my guy wire tension to give good downward weight on the poly line to keep the pitless tight once the unit is on the well, and I can crimp it and hook to the d ring.

I was thinking of schedule 80 PVC.

For poly, there are fittings called a "rope adapter" that could go under the pitless, connect to the poly, and anchor the top of a guy wire.

I was thinking a guy was to keep from stressing a pvc pipe, and with poly it would a way to keep the intake of the flow inducer off of the bottom.

 

[slowgsr]

I was thinking of schedule 80 PVC.

For poly, there are fittings called a "rope adapter" that could go under the pitless, connect to the poly, and anchor the top of a guy wire.

I was thinking a guy was to keep from stressing a pvc pipe, and with poly it would a way to keep the intake of the flow inducer off of the bottom.

thanks, schedule 80 pvc would be better, as it would be rigid, I assume the poly stuff has memory and is going to spiral all over the place in a 30" bore.

I do have a rigid threader, so I could probably buy 10 foot pre threaded pieces then only have to thread one end for the final height.

Ill head to the plumbing supplier on Tuesday, see what they have available.

Any tips on hanging in the well, I have a harness that I wear up in the boom truck, guess I could hang off that, winch bolted in the bucket of my tractor, and put a retractable lanyard on and tie it off outside the well to something.... Strong.

Not really scared of heights, or water

 

[slowgsr]

I got the flow inducer made.
Its sdr 26, has 3 centering bolts on the bottom, and a plastic well cap. The T will help prevent it from sucking 'upwards' sediment (if any). Then a stainless nipple and secondary check valve.

I got a new trench 5ft deep dug with my mini ex to the well from the house, core drilled 2 holes in the well casing, one for pit less and one for my 1 inch seal tight which I'll pull the 4 wire well pump feed in. And core drilled 2 holes for my foundation. I put a sleeve for the one the poly will pass thru.

I'm going to hydraulic cement around all penetration, the well case sure was hard, must be old cement.

I'm going to hang the pump on poly. I have a csv and a csv pump protection ill be using too. The great part is during the install my 2 line jet pump doesn't have to be disturbed.