Pump failure due to well shocking?

[LSCamel]

I was doing some annual maintenance and proceed to shock my well with a couple of gallons of bleach. Careful not to get any on the pump wiring connections at the top of the well head. I pulled a garden hose over from the outside spigot and cycled water back into the well so it was serving as a continual loop. The water was pretty orange/full of oxidized iron.
30 minutes later no water pressure and the water has stopped. I checked the breaker, pressure switch then the connections at the well and all were showing 245V. Did I just kill my well pump?

 

[Boycedrilling]

Probably plugged the pump intake with crud that cane louse from the shock chlorination

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

That iron can stick like baby poop to a mohair blanket. As Boyce said, you probably plugged the intake. How deep is the pump and hanging on what? Be prepared to pull it.

 

[LSCamel]

It’s PVC drop pipe to the well pump but I’ve never pulled it all the way out. I got it about 6’ out a couple years ago when I replaced the pitless adapter and installed a new top casing due to it being cracked and letting ground water in.
I would have pulled it then but I remember it being real heavy.

 

[LLigetfa]

PVC pipe can bend enough in a large arc to pull it in one piece if it is glued. You just need to support it. Might make sense to rent scaffolding and eat your Wheaties.

 

[LLigetfa]

I would have pulled it then but I remember it being real heavy.

Oh, I forgot to mention... it might get heavier after it is above the static water level. It really depends on how far down the water is.

 

[LSCamel]

I had a heavy duty ladder setup over the well and used a chain pulley to lift it that 6’. It bent the top of my ladder. I was concerned for sediment buildup around the pump and breaking the pvc so I made a work around.

I’ve pulled the grundfos and poly line at my old house 120’ a couple of times and that was cake comparatively. This has me worried. Visual reminder below

 

[LSCamel]

I blew a hole in the poly above the pump so that’s not really a fair comparison. But it was still heavier then it should have been.

 

[LSCamel]

It reaches this point and wedges against something. It’s stuck, any good advice?

 

[Valveman]

Turn to the right while pulling up.

 

[LSCamel]

442 right hand turns later!

 

[LSCamel]

120’ From the pitless adapter to the pump. Any recommendations or advice on an replacement. In my mind I’m leaning towards a 3” grundfos either a 15 or 22gpm.

 

[Valveman]

From the look of that motor I agree. Too tight a fit for a 4" pump. With the SQ at that depth a 10 GPM, 3/4HP would work. In the 15 GPM I would use the 1HP, and the 22GPM the 1.5HP model. But the 3/4 HP will run a house and two or three sprinklers at the same time. And of course the SQ pumps work better with a Cycle Stop Valve to deliver constant pressure and variable flow than the variable speed CU301 thing.

 

[LSCamel]

From the look of that motor I agree. Too tight a fit for a 4" pump. With the SQ at that depth a 10 GPM, 3/4HP would work. In the 15 GPM I would use the 1HP, and the 22GPM the 1.5HP model. But the 3/4 HP will run a house and two or three sprinklers at the same time. And of course the SQ pumps work better with a Cycle Stop Valve to deliver constant pressure and variable flow than the variable speed CU301 thing.

I found a 15SQE10-250 I am planning on installing. Any problems using the cycle stop valve on the SQE model vs the SQ? Thanks

 

[Valveman]

That pump becomes an SQ without the CU301 box and will work fine with a CSV. You just won't need the CU301 control box.

 

[LSCamel]

That pump becomes an SQ without the CU301 box and will work fine with a CSV. You just won't need the CU301 control box.

I was told from the pump seller, “the CS1A aren't compatible with the SQ or SQE pumps as they have a low amperage cutout, so the pump might stop working as the Csv1a is restricting the flow and the amps drop..”
Did I spec out the wrong model? They all operate under the same principle correct?

 

[Valveman]

The CSV has been working fine with SQ pumps since 1999 when the SQ first came out. The amps vary when using a CSV the same way they vary when using the CU301 box and varying the speed. So the under load setting in the SQ is capable of knowing the difference between low amperage caused by the CSV or the VFD (CU301) and slightly lower amperage than happens when the well is pumped dry. Pump seller is just trying to sell you more expensive and shorter lasting CU301 box instead. But hey, selling pumps is his business, so he certainly won't like CSV's.

 

[LSCamel]

Completed the installation today, lowered pump to 150’ from original 120’ with static at 90. It was within the pump curve and the bottom is 30’ below that.
I have been rehabbing this house so I haven’t been using water like I will in the future once construction is completed.
I’m going to have to get someone with a scope out to inspect the well, I have been testing the system by leavin a outside hydrant open and turning the pump on, I get a very consistent 3 minutes and 14 seconds before I hear sucking down the well casing. Wait 30 minutes, try it again and 3:14. I was hoping it would increase after each attempt but so far no luck.
I have reached my knowledge limits and will need some professional assistance and options on what can be done to rehab it. Keeping my fingers crossed I can find someone to salvage it.
If anyone has suggestions for service professionals near 47906 please let me know.
Thanks for all the helpful information and feedback.

 

[Reach4]

I have been testing the system by leavin a outside hydrant open and turning the pump on, I get a very consistent 3 minutes and 14 seconds before I hear sucking down the well casing.

Measure how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket while that hydrant is running. If it is 30 seconds, you would probably be OK.

There are devices that can sense the well out of water, and shut down the pump for a while.

 

[LSCamel]

Measure how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket while that hydrant is running. If it is 30 seconds, you would probably be OK.

There are devices that can sense the well out of water, and shut down the pump for a while.

I’ll take a measurement. What do you mean when you say “be ok”? It’s a 1-1/4” supply line that gets reduced to 1” for the hydrant and it flows steady at 50psi during that time frame. I don’t think I’ve ever left a hydrant open to run without restrictions like a hose or pressure washer so I don’t have the insight to say if this has been a problem or if it’s a new problem. For everyday use now it would be fine but later down the road I foresee problems when consumption will increase considerably.
Also, it may be worth noting that my neighbor irrigates his park, about 10 acres of nicely manicured lawn. I’m concerned since I havent been using the water it is naturally getting pulled from under my property to feed his. Could be just paranoia but I wonder nonetheless.