Pressure Tank Tee fittings

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My water system recently developed a pinhole leak in the pipe from the pressure tank tee to the pressure tank. The tank is an Amtrol WX-203 and is over 20 years old, so I've decided to replace it with an identical one, along with the associated fittings. I've attached a picture. The gray putty and pan are part of a temporary patch. The left side goes to the outdoor well pump and the right side goes to a water softener system. The left side has a PVC(F) to brass/copper (M) transition. The right side goes to a ball valve with a (F) threaded connection to PVC (M) transition. All piping is 1".

The replacement tank tee I have has threads on the outside and inside, so it could make a 1" or 3/4" threaded connection.

I've read that transitions from PVC to copper/brass should be male PVC to female copper/brass. With the PVC part on the outside, it can crack due to flexing over time. If I change the left PVC to copper fitting to a male PVC to the inside threads of the new brass tee, this means the PVC necks down to 3/4" briefly. I've also read that you should never neck down the pump to tank connection below 1" to minimize friction.

Would it be a problem using a 1" to 3/4" PVC to male threads adapter to connect the left side, due to friction? If so, what is the best way to do this? Thanks for any assistance.

 

[Reach4]

The replacement tank tee I have has threads on the outside and inside, so it could make a 1" or 3/4" threaded connection.

Many tank tees have inside 1 inch and 1-1/4 outside threads. The WX-203 tank will have 1 inch female threads.

What tank did you get?

You can adapt, but it is better to have a big-diameter path between the tank and where the pressure switch nipple connects. If you make that path 3/4 inch, it is still better than many people have. A brass coupling would let you use 1 inch threads, but maybe that will make your new tank tee stick out too far.

Where is the leak? Under the white stuff on the way to the tank? If so, that is probably a union, and, if so, may just need a new o-ring or tightening of the nut.

 

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[Valveman]

A WX203 tank is 36 gallon size but only holds 8 gallons of water. Now would be a good time to upgrade to a constant pressure system. It would make the pump last longer, use a smaller pressure tank, and deliver strong constant pressure to the shower. Probably easier to install one of these than replace all that old stuff.

Here is what a few hundred other people who did this have to say. https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/reviews

 

[wgadsby]

Many tank tees have inside 1 inch and 1-1/4 outside threads. The WX-203 tank will have 1 inch female threads.

What tank did you get?

You can adapt, but it is better to have a big-diameter path between the tank and where the pressure switch nipple connects. If you make that path 3/4 inch, it is still better than many people have. A brass coupling would let you use 1 inch threads, but maybe that will make your new tank tee stick out too far.

Where is the leak? Under the white stuff on the way to the tank? If so, that is probably a union, and, if so, may just need a new o-ring or tightening of the nut.

 

[Bannerman]

If the pump is filling the current tank 8 gallon draw down in less than 60-seconds, then a larger tank should be used.

Instead of replacing with another large pressure tank, Valveman has suggested a superior upgrade to your system which will eliminate pump cycling, provide consistent pressure and will likely extend the remaining lifespan of your existing pump.

 

[wgadsby]

Thanks for the replies. I already have the replacement tank, another WX-203, so am reluctant to change the system at this point.

The fitting I am worried about changing (1" vs 3/4") is between the tee and the well pump, not between the tee and the tank. The pipe that has a leak is between the tee and the tank. What's strange is that the existing tee looks like its central connection is a sweat connection rather than a threaded connection. The center tee port extends out about 1/2", and there are no visible threads on the pipe joining into it. It's under the putty, so it's not visible in the picture. The pipe with the leak, between the tank and the tee, definitely looks to be copper.

I have hard water, so I don't think it's advisable to have a copper pipe before the water softener system. I'd like to use the new brass tee instead, but that means changing out the PVC fittings.

The tee the manufacturer recommends is a brass TTU100-10, which has a union on the center port, and does have 1" and 3/4" threads (definitely not 1" and 1.25"). If I just replace the old tee with this one I'll have no problem with spacing to the tank, as it's about the same.

I'd love to keep the old tee, and not replace the PVC fittings, but this would mean I'd have to use a copper pipe to the tank, and I'd have to clean up the sweat connection to the tee. Is this advisable?

So to reiterate, if I can't just replace the leaky pipe, the connection I would need to neck down via the PVC transition is between the tee and the well pump. Would this be a problem?

Thanks again for the feedback.

 

[Reach4]

I have not read about the solder-type tank tee.

Do normally avoid female plastic threads, unless you know they are strong enough. I see you are doing that.

I see no problem with hard water in copper. It's corrosive water (usually acidic) that you don't want in copper. Your lab water test may have a corrosivity number that can tell you about that aspect.

 

[wwhitney]

Is there a problem with changing things on the left side of the picture to:

(E) 1" PVC pipe - (N) 1" PVC Male adapter - (N) 1" brass coupling - (N) 1" MIP tank tee?

There are also reinforced PVC Female adapters, I don't have any experience with them or know if they are sufficient to avoid the cracking problem. E.g.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-435-010SR-1-PVC-Schedule-40-Spec-Reinforced-Female-Adapter

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Valveman]

Anywhere you neck down to 3/4" could cause some friction loss.

 

[wgadsby]

It looks like Wayne's solution (#8) should work. I went to the big box store tonight and found a red brass 1" FIP coupler (the third item, 1" brass coupling, in the list). I couldn't find any on their web sites earlier, so assumed they didn't exist. I'll be giving it a try this weekend. Thanks for the responses.

 

[wwhitney]

It looks like Wayne's solution (#8) should work.

Reach4 mentioned it in post #2, I just expanded on the idea.

Cheers, Wayne