If it ain't broke don't fix it. But if you have to pull the pump for any reason, no sense in setting it deeper than it can pump.
Ok, I'll leave that alone for now. I still need to figure out why the tank bladder ruptured so early. Could it be from the low pH?
Another contributor could have been that the previous owner let the air precharge get very low, maximizing the diaphragm stretching.Ok, I'll leave that alone for now. I still need to figure out why the tank bladder ruptured so early.
Only in the summer maybe, constant irrigation at 4 gpm.Could the previous owner have done something to cause it to cycle too much (like run sprinklers 18 hours every day?)
Another contributor could have been that the previous owner let the air precharge get very low, maximizing the diaphragm stretching.
Only in the summer maybe, constant irrigation at 4 gpm.
It is the small flow rates that cause cycling. Since your well only makes 4 GPM, running a 7-10 GPM pump causes lots of cycling. Without a CSV the only way to water and not pump the well dry was to let it cycle on and off. Everything in a pump system is destroyed by cycling. The tank diaphragm is just one of the first to show.
Since a CSV isn't the best for my house, a larger pressure tank would help elevate the constant cycling?
Unless it physically will not fit, I always install a FL25 tank.
FL22? https://www.flexconind.com/fl spec sheet lr.pdfI only stock two tank sizes. The FL12 and the FL25. Anything else I order just for that job.
You can connect the tank to any size pipe. If you can't get a big tank through the door then two or more smaller tanks can be manifolded together.
This is awkward, but...
It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.
If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.