We just bought 10 acres in central Idaho and the well has been drilled , 460' depth. We are trying to figure out the pump and pressure tank that fits our needs and we have some obstacles. There is no electricity yet to the property so will use a generator in the mean time and no structure or way to keep a structure warm for a tank. The estimates we have are for a solar system( too spendy), a tank in an inground concrete vault and an in-well tank. Any thoughts on these or different ideas. Thanks
Pressure tank advice
- Thread starter Idaho Mom
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There are pressure tanks intended to be buried. The bottom part needs to be below the frost line, but I think the top can be above the frost line. I don't know where you draw the line. In http://www.amtrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/MC10188-06_19_WXT-brochure.pdf the part numbers ending in UG, such as WX-250UG, are made for underground.
There are, or at least use to be, special pressure switches that can keep the water below the frost line. The pressure transmits up from the water to a diaphragm, to a special freeze-proof non-toxic fluid, which operates the pressure switch. I cannot find such a pressure switch being currently offered.
You will want a pitless adapter below the frost line.
A yard hydrant can connect below the frost line, and drain itself when you turn the hydrant off.
A 3-wire pump or a 2-wire SQ pump will be easier for a generator to start. To select the actual pump, you would want to know the static water level and have some info on the drawdown when water gets used. The pump will usually be mounted 20 ft from the bottom, but may be higher if your water conditions allow. The force the pump must produce depends on how far down the surface of the water is rather than how far down the pump is. It's the case that you don't want the pump to run out of water above it, however.
There are, or at least use to be, special pressure switches that can keep the water below the frost line. The pressure transmits up from the water to a diaphragm, to a special freeze-proof non-toxic fluid, which operates the pressure switch. I cannot find such a pressure switch being currently offered.
You will want a pitless adapter below the frost line.
A yard hydrant can connect below the frost line, and drain itself when you turn the hydrant off.
A 3-wire pump or a 2-wire SQ pump will be easier for a generator to start. To select the actual pump, you would want to know the static water level and have some info on the drawdown when water gets used. The pump will usually be mounted 20 ft from the bottom, but may be higher if your water conditions allow. The force the pump must produce depends on how far down the surface of the water is rather than how far down the pump is. It's the case that you don't want the pump to run out of water above it, however.
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Buried tanks and vaults are always problems to work on or maintain. Solar is expensive and requires batteries that need to be protected from the elements as well. I have the patent on the in well pressure tank, and even so I do not recommend one, as they do not hold enough water and the bladder design has a tendency to fail. You won't need a very large tank if you can use a Cycle Stop Valve to control your pump. The PK1A kit can fit in a 14X14X24 inch cover like an insulated fake rock. It can also be easily drained when leaving the property. After you build a house the PK1A kit can be moved to the water heater closet or somewhere in the house. You just cannot tee into the water line between the well and the PK1A kit.
https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick
https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick
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