P-Trap Adapter Leaking

[Sid.Santo]

Hi All.

The p-trap adapter was leaking. I hand tightened it, which seemed to stop the leak. But the threads are still damp.

What is the correct fix?

 

[WorthFlorida]

You're find. Hand tightened is usually enough. If you find the slipe joints loosen, use a pair of channel lock pliers and very slightly tighten it. Just note there is no pressure in a drain line to force a leak. It is all by gravity. Use a paper towel to dry it down.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sid.Santo]

Thanks, but it seems to be a slow leak from p-trap

 

[Reach4]

1. Is the pipe going into the wall only 1/4 inch/ft slope toward the wall? It should be. It may be an optical illusion from the photos that the slope is steeper than that. It looks like you did not want to cut a clearance hole in the bottom of the cabinet that would let the U of the trap go beneath the level of that bottom.

It looks like your trap is glued. It may be that your glued trap causes your trap to have sideways stress on those threads, preventing the threaded joint from making a good seal.

What would have been better is to have a trap adapter at the wall, and to use a slip joint trap. And to make a slot to clear the U of the trap if needed.

It is possible that a plumber could use a special tool to install a trap adapter, letting you switch to a slip joint trap.

 

[Eman85]

I'm not a plumber. In your pic it looks like the tailstock is cocked or the trap is crooked. It should slide together with no pressure/tension. Are the gaskets in good condition?

 

[WorthFlorida]

The trap arm is a bit high, therefore, the tail piece slip joint can weep water if not tight enough. Below is a perfect setup.

https://www.oatey.com/sites/default/files/2022-10/P-Trap_Blog_01.jpg

 

[Sid.Santo]

1. Is the pipe going into the wall only 1/4 inch/ft slope toward the wall? It should be. It may be an optical illusion from the photos that the slope is steeper than that. It looks like you did not want to cut a clearance hole in the bottom of the cabinet that would let the U of the trap go beneath the level of that bottom.

It looks like your trap is glued. It may be that your glued trap causes your trap to have sideways stress on those threads, preventing the threaded joint from making a good seal.

What would have been better is to have a trap adapter at the wall, and to use a slip joint trap. And to make a slot to clear the U of the trap if needed.

It is possible that a plumber could use a special tool to install a trap adapter, letting you switch to a slip joint trap.

Would you recommend redoing the trap without glue?

Is there enough space for a slip joint trap without cutting into the cabinet?

...edit...sorry I reread your comment. I think the plumber is avoiding cutting into the cabinet since there are drawers underneath

 

[Sid.Santo]

The plumber had to take apart and reassemble the drain. Leak jo kore

 

[Sid.Santo]

Leak jo more