New well supplying two buildings

[Billy Grayson]

We purchased property in Panama a few years back that has two buildings on it. One is a large main house and the other is a smaller "casita". Both buildings are supplied water by one well, each having its own holding tank. The system is currently manual, meaning that I have to switch the pump on to fill the tanks. I also have to turn a ball valve in order to divert water to one tank or the other. I did install Grundfos SBA pumps in each tank that have worked great for getting water from the tanks to the buildings.
On my next trip down, I plan on having a new well drilled (the current well is not deep enough and runs dry on a regular basis) and would like to automate the whole system. I know this is a multiple part question, but can someone explain in simple terms, the best way to supply water from the new well to these two buildings without having to manually divert it to each tank when the levels drop? As you can probably guess, my knowledge of well systems is poorly lacking, so I will greatly appreciate any help that's provided!

 

[Reach4]

How far apart are the two buildings? How much altitude difference?

know this is a multiple part question, but can someone explain in simple terms, the best way to supply water from the new well to these two buildings without having to manually divert it to each tank when the levels drop? A single 10 gpm pump could be big enough for both houses if not doing much irrigating.

Consider not having holding tanks. Supply both houses from a well that is big enough. The pressure tank and pressure switches would be at one of the houses or in a new well house at the well. Without holding tanks, you don't have things growing in the holding tanks.

If the holding tanks are mainly to deal with power outages, then something else could be done to help that.

You could have a reserve holding tank at a house with a float valve to shut off the flow when the tank is full.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Boycedrilling]

Billy,

Easy to do.

1st option, float valves at the tanks. Think of the valve in a toilet tank, only larger. When the water level in the tank drops, the valve opens. Each tank is completely independent of the other tank. No wireing needs to be run between the tanks and the pump. Then you control the pump with a pressure switch. When the valves are closed at both tanks, the pressure rises at the pump and the pressure switch shuts it off. You would also need a small pressure tank at the pressure switch.

2nd option. Electrical control. Float switches at both tanks. Hard wiring or radio controls from floats to pump. When one or both floats drop it signals the pump to run, when the tank or tanks are full the float switches turn the pump off. You need check valves at the inlet to each tank. Float switches at each tank. Communication between the tanks and the pump. And a contactor at the pump to start and stop it.

 

[Billy Grayson]

How far apart are the two buildings? How much altitude difference?


Consider not having holding tanks. Supply both houses from a well that is big enough. The pressure tank and pressure switches would be at one of the houses or in a new well house at the well. Without holding tanks, you don't have things growing in the holding tanks.

If the holding tanks are mainly to deal with power outages, then something else could be done to help that.

You could have a reserve holding tank at a house with a float valve to shut off the flow when the tank is full.

How far apart are the two buildings? How much altitude difference?


Consider not having holding tanks. Supply both houses from a well that is big enough. The pressure tank and pressure switches would be at one of the houses or in a new well house at the well. Without holding tanks, you don't have things growing in the holding tanks.

If the holding tanks are mainly to deal with power outages, then something else could be done to help that.

You could have a reserve holding tank at a house with a float valve to shut off the flow when the tank is full.

How far apart are the two buildings? How much altitude difference?


Consider not having holding tanks. Supply both houses from a well that is big enough. The pressure tank and pressure switches would be at one of the houses or in a new well house at the well. Without holding tanks, you don't have things growing in the holding tanks.

If the holding tanks are mainly to deal with power outages, then something else could be done to help that.

You could have a reserve holding tank at a house with a float valve to shut off the flow when the tank is full.

Reach4,

The buildings are about 125 feet apart. The smaller building is at a slightly higher elevation...a foot or so. The tanks are elevated. One sits on its own block pedestal and the other sits on top of a storage room attached to the casita. They were gravity feeding water to booster pumps before I put the submersibles in the tanks. Just read that the Grundfos pumps I'm using have developed a high failure rate. Great.

 

[Reach4]

A "flow inducer" sleeve can better cool the pump motor and should help reliability.

You should protect your PVC from UV. You could use latex paint. Easier than tape.

Boycedrilling identified two good methods of filling the tanks.

 

[Valveman]

Like Boyce said just use a float valve at each storage tank and a pressure switch/pressure tank to control the well pump. It is best to use non-modulating float valves as modulating float valves will take much longer to fill and can cycle the well pump on/off repeatedly. You can use a Cycle Stop Valve to stop the pump from cycling, but the non-modulating float valves are still best. You can also use a float switch in each tank to control an electric valve that will be non-modulating. A 24V plug in transformer is all the power it needs.

 

[Valveman]

Also, any regular submersible well pump with a flow inducer and Cycle Stop Valve will last several times longer than that SBA pump. Use what you have until it quits. But be ready to replace it when it does. A regular 1/2HP, 10 GPM submersible with a PK1A control kit is best. But you can use the same PK1A control kit with a 1HP, 33 GPM, Hallmark pump, as these are only 140 bucks and a lot of people are using them.

 

[Billy Grayson]

Thanks guys! I'll have a lot to consider when rebuilding the system down there. I'm going to try to take as much equipment with me as I can fit in my checked bags.
I bought the SBAs a few years back from Rain Brothers and they seemed to have pretty good customer support. The fact that they've put a notice up on their web site explaining why they no longer sell the Grundfos pumps says a lot about their integrity. I'd definitely go back to them, but if anyone has any other recommendations for good (patient) dealers who can help me design my system and provide all the components I'll need, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Valveman]

You are better off designing it yourself. Going through a "dealer" you will get sold what the dealer makes the most money on. The whole system was engineered in the prior post. Get a regular 10 GPM, 1/2HP submersible or the 1HP, 33GPM Hallmark and put a flow inducer sleeve on it. Install a good spring loaded brass or SS check valve on the pump. Extend the pipe from the pump out of the storage tank and install a PK1A control kit and you are done. Here are a few drawings and pictures to help.

 

[Billy Grayson]

Thanks, Valveman. Again, I'm a fish out of water when it comes to well systems, but this seems pretty straight forward.
You mentioned using a "non-modulating float valve" in an earlier post. Can you point me in the right direction to look for this??

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

Thanks, Valveman. Again, I'm a fish out of water when it comes to well systems, but this seems pretty straight forward.
You mentioned using a "non-modulating float valve" in an earlier post. Can you point me in the right direction to look for this??

Thanks

I like the 24V solenoid valve better, but try "Jobe" valves. They make non-modulating float valves.

 

[Billy Grayson]

I like the 24V solenoid valve better, but try "Jobe" valves. They make non-modulating float valves.

That Vortex is a little pricey. Gotta recommendation on a 24v solenoid valve?

 

[Valveman]

This is what I use.
https://sprinklersupplystore.com/pr...MIx4G63pPh6wIVCr3ACh2eOwOqEAQYBSABEgLyJ_D_BwE

https://www.pumpproducts.com/goulds...MIl6ek3JTh6wIVDfDACh311QJlEAQYBiABEgL0gfD_BwE

https://www.mcmaster.com/plug-in-transformers/low-current-ac-to-ac-transformers-6/