MrJuicy
New Member
WHen building the waterproof membrane layer on a pres sloped slab, how thick does the setting bed need to be? I found in a B & D tile book, they say have two layers on top with lathe in between, is that only for wood floor applications? And is the deck mud available ready for h2o & mixing? As I understand it, I will be skipping steps 1 & 2............since the slab is presloped to the proper angle. I also plan to use a liquid membrane on the walls(cement board) before I start tiling them.
Many Thanks
Basically, a traditional shower pan is composed of 5-layers (well, six if you consider the first):
1 - a bonding agent to make sure the next layer sticks to the slab
2 - deck mud (mix of sand and portland cement) shaped with the proper pitch to the drain at 1/4" per foot from the longest distance. This can get messy if the drain isn't centered.
3 - the liner
4- the setting bed - another layer of deck mud (actually parallel to the sloped layer - i.e., equal thickness)
5 - thinset to hold the tile down
6 - finished tile.
There are also special considerations to ensure the curb remains waterproof and you can tile it. Over concrete it's good to use bricks or pavers to make the curb rather than wood, which is often used over a wooden subfloor.
Many Thanks
Basically, a traditional shower pan is composed of 5-layers (well, six if you consider the first):
1 - a bonding agent to make sure the next layer sticks to the slab
2 - deck mud (mix of sand and portland cement) shaped with the proper pitch to the drain at 1/4" per foot from the longest distance. This can get messy if the drain isn't centered.
3 - the liner
4- the setting bed - another layer of deck mud (actually parallel to the sloped layer - i.e., equal thickness)
5 - thinset to hold the tile down
6 - finished tile.
There are also special considerations to ensure the curb remains waterproof and you can tile it. Over concrete it's good to use bricks or pavers to make the curb rather than wood, which is often used over a wooden subfloor.
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