Moving toilet rough-in

[hammerpocket]

I currently have about a 15-inch rough-in and have rejected the Toto Unifit offerings because of the other specs (specifically, we want a round bowl and a seat height no more than 16 inches), so I'm looking at moving the rough-in and installing a Toto Eco Ultramax. I have easy access to the plumbing from the unfinished basement.

I've seen a few posts mentioning the longer rough-ins are usually done to avoid a floor joist, but it looks to me like there is room to spare in my case. However, I thought it might be a good idea to post a photo to have some more experienced eyes look at it in case there's something I'm missing. The plan is to drill out the lead joint on the cast iron tee, transition to 3-inch PVC with a rubber donut, then turn upward with a long sweep elbow to another length of 3-inch PVC up to the flange.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

One other thing: I've removed a lead joint before, but that was smaller and at floor level. I would appreciate any advice about how to deal with removing this heavy cast iron that sits about 7 feet off the ground.

 

[Terry]

I would cut or snap your cast iron and use a Mission coupling to extend out with plastic or cast to change the rough.
It doesn't have to be that long closet bend that was used before.

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[hammerpocket]

I would cut or snap your cast iron and use a Mission coupling to extend out with plastic or cast to change the rough.

I had considered that, but was a little unsure of having enough pipe to work with after shortening the length. It would probably work if I used one of these (4 x 3 Closet street elbow) with the 4-inch side coupled to the iron pipe to avoid a hub getting in the way of the coupling. I could use a much cheaper and available 4" coupling as well. Any problem with that?

 

[Terry]

You have plenty of room there to work with. You can also reduce down to 3" using a flush bush on the coupling.

 

[hammerpocket]

This angle might illustrate the issue better. I would gain a little space with a regular elbow instead of the long turn, but I'm not sure it would be enough to fit a Mission coupling. I assume I need a couple inches at least on each pipe for it to work. Would there be anything wrong with using the spigot end of a street elbow to connect to the CI with the coupling?

 

[Reach4]

Would there be anything wrong with using the spigot end of a street elbow to connect to the CI with the coupling?

That would be good. I am not a plumber.

Also, there are some decent 4 inch offset closet flanges that will pass a 3 inch ball and will offset any direction 1.5 inches. That could be 1 inch toward the wall and 1 inch to the right both.

 

[Terry]

You can also use a spigot 90 and couple right to it

 

[Reach4]

You can also use a spigot 90 and couple right to it

I was thinking Andrew Dale could have maybe used one of those in ABS on this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/unifit-still-the-way-to-go.71792/

I could not find one listed.