Long drain pipe with no slope

[gwills]

True and yes, I have a couple of rasps. I will still have to heat the pipe and bend it. I tried to bend a 2' piece of cold 1.5" PVC and it didn't budge.
What is wrong with using 1.25" pipe on a bathroom sink? No one will probably ever use the pop up drain, the bowl is small and the water restrictor limits the water flow.

 

[James Henry]

PVC won't bend when it's cold, it will flex however. if your determined to bend a piece of PVC pipe you could try putting it in some boiling water, I've never tried but it might work. or you could imagine that the drain you secure under your cabinet that is initially under stress eventually no longer remains under stress because the hot water you use that goes down the drain eventually causes the drain to deform. my statement about 1-1/2"being a faster drain with no clogs is true. If you want to use 1-1/4", that's your prerogative, Its not a big deal.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[gwills]

James,

PVC starts to soften at 250 degrees so boiling water is not hot enough. The trick is to localize the heat and keep the end round. A CPVC fitting can be used to keep the end round because it has a 50 degree higher softening point. A wet rag over a PVC fitting will also work. A heat gun kept moving around the pipe will work on this size pipe. I have used this technique on electrical conduit many times.

I will draw a line that is 1.2 degrees from horizontal as a guide. Insert the pipe into a pvc fitting then wrap it with a wet rag. Heat the pipe about 2" from the fitting. As soon as it becomes pliable the pipe will be moved to follow the sloped line then my helper will put a wet rag on the heated area while I hold it in position.

Gene

 

[Jeff H Young]

its not steel ! is it cocked with loads of backfall? gotta do what you gotta do remove whatever is preventing this pipe from being horizontal and grab it and pull it up strap it what ever you got to do a 3 or 4 foot long pipe wont just float in mid air . or bust open wall and do what it takes , the picture isnt helping any

 

[Reach4]

What is wrong with using 1.25" pipe on a bathroom sink? No one will probably ever use the pop up drain, the bowl is small and the water restrictor limits the water flow.

No Rectorseal Magic Trap, but you can order up a trap adapter. Probably won't find one on the shelf.

How will you mount your AAV?

Also, a 1.5 inch pipe with a short true horizontal section would have more margin than a 1.25 pipe with a short true horizontal section, wouldn't you think?

 

[gwills]

My plan is to mount the AAV 12" above the trap on a vertical pipe connected to a sanitary tee that is 4" from the P Trap.

I agree that there is more margin with the 1.5" pipe but I will be able to slope the 1.25" pipe through the existing hole in the cabinet and wall.

Heating the pipe in a controlled way (keeping the heat away from the end that goes in the adapter) is pretty easy with a heat gun and I only need to bend it 1.2 degrees. Here is a link to some good advice on bending PVC for anyone that is interested. https://pvcbendit.com/pvc-pipe-bending-faqs/

I will try to post some pics after I bend the pipe. Waiting on the fittings which will arrive later in the week.

 

[Reach4]

I agree that there is more margin with the 1.5" pipe but I will be able to slope the 1.25" pipe through the existing hole in the cabinet and wall.

Do you intend to bend the pipe while it is already screwed into the steel elbow? Or do you intend to mark the top of the pipe and bottom of the pipe, and move the pipe around the circumference of the hole as you turn to start and tighten the threads?

 

[gwills]

Reach4,

No. There is no room to heat the pipe when it is in the wall and through the cabinet. I will try to bend it about an inch back from the edge of the fitting.

My plan is to glue the adapter onto the pipe then screw it into the elbow until tight. Mark the top of the pipe so that I know which way to bend it. Remove the pipe, wrap the adapter that is glued onto the pipe with a wet rag, hold it level in a vise, then heat the pipe evenly about 3" from the adapter. As soon as it become pliable, bend it towards the mark then hold it in position for a few seconds while it cools enough to maintain the shape.

If the pipe is heated evenly around its circumference and the heat is kept focused, the length of pipe that will be pliable should be about an inch long. The pipe is not being turned into a cooked spaghetti noodle.

 

[Reach4]

Reach4,

No. There is no room to heat the pipe when it is in the wall and through the cabinet. I will try to bend it about an inch back from the edge of the fitting.

My plan is to glue the adapter onto the pipe then screw it into the elbow until tight. Mark the top of the pipe so that I know which way to bend it. Remove the pipe, wrap the adapter that is glued onto the pipe with a wet rag, hold it level in a vise, then heat the pipe evenly about 3" from the adapter. As soon as it become pliable, bend it towards the mark then hold it in position for a few seconds while it cools enough to maintain the shape.

If the pipe is heated evenly around its circumference and the heat is kept focused, the length of pipe that will be pliable should be about an inch long. The pipe is not being turned into a cooked spaghetti noodle.

Alternative idea, which may be impractical: screw the adapter into place, using both pipe dope and tape. Bend your pipe, and cut it the ideal distance from the bend -- leaving enough straight to go into the socket. Then glue the pipe into the socket. This way, no danger of cross-threading.

 

[wwhitney]

Alternative idea, which may be impractical: screw the adapter into place

I thought of this approach as well, but the first step seems very hard. How do you apply sufficient torque to a male adapter through a 2" hole in the drywall/vanity side without a pipe sticking out? If you can figure that out, I agree that this approach has several advantages.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[gwills]

Wayne,

The hole through the wall and cabinet is so precise that there is no chance for cross threading. I had to sand the lobes off of the adapter to get it through the hole! I have already tested inserting a pipe with an adapter glued onto the end. I used plenty of pipe sealant and was able to tighten the male adapter pretty tight with nitril gloved hands. It was so tight that I had to get my helper to help me unscrew it. Could have used a strap wrench if that didn't work.

The plan is to screw the adapter into the elbow by turning the pre-bent pipe.

I just created a model in sketchup with the dimensions. The pipe offset at 3" from the beginning of the bend is 1/16 so the bent pipe should not pose a problem. Keep in mind that I will be using 1.25 pipe and the hole is 2".

If this doesn't work out, there is always another tool opportunity. https://pvcbendit.com/buy-pvc-bendits/

Gene

 

[Reach4]

The hole through the wall and cabinet is so precise that there is no chance for cross threading. I had to sand the lobes off of the adapter to get it through the hole! I have already tested inserting a pipe with an adapter glued onto the end.

That was with a straight pipe.

 

[gwills]

Correct, a 1.5" pipe!

 

[gwills]

Here is a pic of the bent pipe.

I slid a male adapter onto the end of a 24" 1.25 sch 40 PVC pipe (no glue) then clamped the fitting in a vise with the pipe level. A heat gun was used to heat the pipe to 225 degrees. Heat was applied 2-3" away from the connector and kept moving around the circumference. As soon as the pipe began to droop, I put a level on the top and raised the pipe to the correct slope. It only took about 15 seconds for the pipe to cool and become rigid. removed the pipe and connector from the vise, glued the two pieces together, applied pipe sealant and screwed it into the elbow in the wall by hand.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Gene

 

[Jeff H Young]

good glad you got it fixed