Bill Sinclair
New Member
Hi,
I just installed an Iron filter that backwashes every 2 weeks. ( up to 100 gallons ea )
My well tank and filter are in the basement.
I'm also on a brand new septic system.
I do not believe I should flush all the backwash through the septic system.
I will be installing a French drain and if needed a drywell at the end of it. ( I don't really believe I'll need the drywell but will reconsider if a pro on here believes it's needed )
I'm coming off the filter head with 1/2" tube and will be increasing that to 3/4" where it will go up to the joists with a 3/4" check valve on the rise. Then across the joists ( about 8 feet, then down to the spot where I'll go through the wall below the frostline. Then increase to 1" just before it punches through the basement wall and will continue ( graded down ) for 25-30 feet before it will change to the french drain. The french drain will be socked and perforated 4" PVC. for another 25 feet.
Now..... the BIG question. I understand the "air-gap" requirement if tying into a septic line.
However since this is feeding into a dedicated French drain and I have a check valve, how necessary is the air gap?
And if totally un avoidable how and where would I do this? Especially considering it will be "jetting" out of the tube at 40PSI, not just gravity fed.
Thank you
Bill
I just installed an Iron filter that backwashes every 2 weeks. ( up to 100 gallons ea )
My well tank and filter are in the basement.
I'm also on a brand new septic system.
I do not believe I should flush all the backwash through the septic system.
I will be installing a French drain and if needed a drywell at the end of it. ( I don't really believe I'll need the drywell but will reconsider if a pro on here believes it's needed )
I'm coming off the filter head with 1/2" tube and will be increasing that to 3/4" where it will go up to the joists with a 3/4" check valve on the rise. Then across the joists ( about 8 feet, then down to the spot where I'll go through the wall below the frostline. Then increase to 1" just before it punches through the basement wall and will continue ( graded down ) for 25-30 feet before it will change to the french drain. The french drain will be socked and perforated 4" PVC. for another 25 feet.
Now..... the BIG question. I understand the "air-gap" requirement if tying into a septic line.
However since this is feeding into a dedicated French drain and I have a check valve, how necessary is the air gap?
And if totally un avoidable how and where would I do this? Especially considering it will be "jetting" out of the tube at 40PSI, not just gravity fed.
Thank you
Bill
