Identify Fleck(?) filter valve and media leak issue

[MicoFish]

I replaced the media in our water softener (Fleck 5600) and iron filter (Fleck ???) a week or so ago and cleaned the valves, injectors, etc.
This was the system already installed when we bought the house.
I identified the softener as a 5600 and have a replacement piston, seals and spacers, brine valve, and screen ready to swap in.
I want to replace the piston, seals, and spacers on the iron filter also, however once I got it apart, it doesn't appear that the seals and spacers can be removed from the valve head. Both the front and back openings are narrower than the spacers it seems. I was originally thinking it was a Fleck 1500 valve, but the manual I found for that one shows the spaces/seals able to fit out the front. Attached are two pictures of the valve. Any idea which this is and if the seals/spacers are replaceable? Maybe not even a Fleck?

Also, after replacing the media in both, it worked fine for about a week or so (until yesterday). The systems were running through their regen and backwash cycles (I think) around midnight, and in the morning there was a lot of the birm media from the iron filter on the floor and out the drain lines. A pressure fit coupling on the softener drain line had popped off and seems to be where the birm came out.
My question is how the birm got through the iron filter to it's output line. I pulled it back apart and there's no holes in the bottom distributor or other obvious holes anywhere. It's like it valve piston was maybe half open and it was flushing out the main output?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
PK

 

[ditttohead]

The only exit point for the birm media would be through the drain, or through the bottom screen. Water temperature plays an important role in the backwash rates. Cold water will lift the medias much higher and possibly out of the system. My guess is it backwashed out during the regen cycle.

It appears to be a 2500 valve. The 1500 was a single piece valve, the 2500 had a removable base which is what you appear to have. Remove the front powerhead plate by removing the 2 bolts and the piston retaining clip and the whole front will be easily removed. Pull the piston out and you will see the seals/spacers. They must be removed from the front, not the back.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MicoFish]

Yes, this has the removable base that threads onto the tank, so the 2500 it is. Thanks!

Per a PM from someone else, it's likely that the original media wasn't birm and the drain flow rate was too high for the media.
That said, when I got home this evening, I looked to double check the drain flow control washer only to find it wasn't there... I disassembled the unit in the shop, including the drain connection, so I don't think it just fell out somewhere. Is it possible the washer essentially disintegrated due to a mismatch in the flow rate and media (it was likely the original installed 10-15 years ago)? Or that there wasn't one to begin with and whatever media was used before needed some ridiculous flow rate?

Since I don't know what media was used before or what the flow rate was to make a best guess, I found this table of flow rates vs media: http://www.purewaterproducts.com/articles/backwash-chart
Is this an accurate chart, at least as a starting point? (Accepting that 'your mileage may vary' based on other specific of the install).

Also, since it looks like I'll be redoing this from the start, does anyone have any recommendations on water testing labs in the San Antonio area that I can get an analysis from?

Thanks,
PK

 

[Bannerman]

The backwash chart is only an average of the backwash range specified by each media manufacturer. Optimal BW rates are often near the upper end of the range and sometimes may be slightly higher for some media. Also to be considered is the backwash water temperature since denser colder water will require a lower flow rate.

National testing labs is most recommended on his forum.
http://watercheck.myshopify.com/?aff=5

 

[Reach4]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/recommended-water-testing-lab.75253/ has my water test comments.

 

[MicoFish]

Thanks for the recommendations and info!
We'll get the water tested and figure out an appropriate rebuild. Will probably post again then to get a sanity check or second opinions.
PK

 

[ditttohead]

https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/154-155

here is the backwash rate chart that we developed.

You may have had pyrolox/filox. That media is extremely difficult to backwash. It is unlikely the backwash flow control disintegrated, it was likely left out if your tank was filled with Filox.

Hope this helps.

 

[MicoFish]

Ok, thanks, that makes sense.

 

[Reach4]

Ok, thanks, that makes sense.

With your warm San Antonio water, you would probably want to aim for the higher end of the suggested range.

 

[MicoFish]

Yep, agreed, our well pumps to a large settling tank before hitting our booster to pressure tank to softener/filter, so it gets nice and warm in the summer. Of course this week, our water in the house has been a brisk 40-50 degrees

 

[Reach4]

Yep, agreed, our well pumps to a large settling tank before hitting our booster to pressure tank to softener/filter, so it gets nice and warm in the summer. Of course this week, our water in the house has been a brisk 40-50 degrees

Make sure you have a top basket or other device to prevent media from blowing out the top when backwashing with the cooler water.