Hot water heater problem

[bikeboy]

I am having a water heating problem with my 50 gallon electric water heater. Tank is only a couple of years old. The water is chlorinated coming from the street. Living in Tennessee, The water line from street is only 18" below grade, and @ least 500 ft. before entering tank. With both thermostats set @ 120 deg. , I'll get 90deg. @Tub spickit. when turned to max. reading 150 deg. @ tank, I'll get 110deg @ tub. This is after letting thermostats shut off heating elements, and set for a while . It's only a problem when i cant fill whirlpool tub, esp. in winter months. I tested the elements resistance, and continuity, voltage and amp draw. Elements seem to be good. Thermostats are set against tank. I've once cleaned the elements w/ clr to remove sediment. There is probably now some chlorine sediment around the anode rod and elements, but the thermostats are shutting off, @ given temps. The only thing I can come up w/ is the therms. aren't accurate. Also, when tub is filling, water has greenish tint. There is a notable difference, when ground water temperatures change, but shouldn't change heaters operation when resting.

What do I look for ?
HR...

 

[Dana]

Even with 150F water it's often tough to fill a spa tub with 50 gallon tank. How many gallons is that tub?

The size of the heater element plays almost no part in the tub filling capacity- it's all about the storage temperature. The aquastats on electric water heaters aren't exactly precision instruments, but they shouldn't be more than 10F away from the measured output water temperature near the tank.

If the mixer filling the tub is at type unable to turn to fully-hot without mixing in at least some cold water, there would of course be a lower temperature coming out the tub spout/spigot. The maximum hot out of the mixer is often adjustable. What model is it?

No idea what the ground temperature sensitive green tinge is about.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gips]

I am having a water heating problem with my 50 gallon electric water heater. Tank is only a couple of years old. The water is chlorinated coming from the street. Living in Tennessee, The water line from street is only 18" below grade, and @ least 500 ft. before entering tank. With both thermostats set @ 120 deg. , I'll get 90deg. @Tub spickit. when turned to max. reading 150 deg. @ tank, I'll get 110deg @ tub. This is after letting thermostats shut off heating elements, and set for a while . It's only a problem when i cant fill whirlpool tub, esp. in winter months. I tested the elements resistance, and continuity, voltage and amp draw. Elements seem to be good. Thermostats are set against tank. I've once cleaned the elements w/ clr to remove sediment. There is probably now some chlorine sediment around the anode rod and elements, but the thermostats are shutting off, @ given temps. The only thing I can come up w/ is the therms. aren't accurate. Also, when tub is filling, water has greenish tint. There is a notable difference, when ground water temperatures change, but shouldn't change heaters operation when resting.

What do I look for ?
HR...

Check this
http://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=ca478a6b-e8da-4442-840f-0f10dc941a41

Or try to understand why water from the bottom of the hot water heater would be coming to the faucets. Check the temp of water that comes out the heater drain to confirm it’s what you expect.

 

[Plumber69]

Possibly the thermostats are not touching the tank properly, or the cold inlet tube is broken allowing cold water to enter the top of the tank