Help with selecting a water filtration/softener system for house

[Flecktones]

I've been pouring over the recent threads and gotten a bit confused on the options. So, I'm going to lay out the situation and would appreciate any feedback to help guide me through this.
I live in Central Texas, and have a 4800 sq ft house with 5.5 bathrooms. 2 adults 2 kids still in elementary school. We do have hard water - my city's water report is at http://www.friscotexas.gov/ArchiveCenter/ViewFile/Item/2259.

So far, I have had a consultation with Culligan tech and was not too satisfied with what they told me reg. the filtration using their High Efficiency water softener system and how they remove chloramine; moreover the cost was on the higher side.
My neighbor got the install done via a different guy who uses HydroSpring Water Softener & Conditioner system: http://rbswaterresources.com/productsdocx/hydrospring.pdf. along with Proline Plus RO system for drinking water in the kitchen. I really don't know much about these but he has been using that for 2 years now and is very happy with it. I know the price is half of Culligan's! This has the 10% cross-resin and I think will have to take the optional 2nd media tank as well for the carbon.
Another neighbor has gone for the Aquasana filtration system and softener route. Is Aquasana really worth it?

I initially was looking for water softener and drinking water RO system in the kitchen, specifically these 2:
1. Water Softener system: Fleck 5600SXT 48,000 Grain - https://www.amazon.com/Fleck-5600SXT-Softener-Digital-Metered/product-reviews/B00OGN3162
2. RO Filtration: iSpring RCC7 High Capacity Under Sink 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water - https://www.amazon.com/iSpring-RCC7-Filtration-Softener-Certified/dp/B003XELTTG

But after researching here, I think I need a water filtration system or a carbon filtration to remove the chlorine/chloramine, and then the other 2. or maybe not!

Could you guys please let me know what exactly I should be looking for ? Would appreciate your feedback.

 

[Mialynette2003]

Clack is the better system IMO. I sold Fleck for years but found Clack to be more user friendly.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Flecktones]

Clack is the better system IMO. I sold Fleck for years but found Clack to be more user friendly.

Would you know what model of Clack? and where do I get it from? Do I need a carbon filtration system too?

 

[Bannerman]

The water report you linked to does not mention Chloramine (Chlorine + Ammonia) but does specify Chlorine residual in the treated water. Chloramine is much more difficult to remove than plain Chlorine so a large volume (2+ cuft) of Catalytic carbon would be required whereas to remove Chlorine, activated carbon such as GAC (granular activated carbon) would be sufficient.

As too many online dealers have provided insufficient and inappropriate support for the equipment they sell, both Fleck and Clack have adopted policies utilizing dealers who both sell and service equipment, thereby eliminating most online dealers. Older and less capable Fleck models such as the 5600 continue to remain available online.

Clack offer variations of their WS1 model such as time clock control (water filter) vs metered operation (water softener) and 1.25" porting vs 1". What size plumbing is in your home and is there any high volume fixtures (multi-head showers, hot tub etc)?

 

[GTOwagon]

You really have 5.5 bathrooms?

 

[Flecktones]

The water report you linked to does not mention Chloramine (Chlorine + Ammonia) but does specify Chlorine residual in the treated water. Chloramine is much more difficult to remove than plain Chlorine so a large volume (2+ cuft) of Catalytic carbon would be required whereas to remove Chlorine, activated carbon such as GAC (granular activated carbon) would be sufficient.

As too many online dealers have provided insufficient and inappropriate support for the equipment they sell, both Fleck and Clack have adopted policies utilizing dealers who both sell and service equipment, thereby eliminating most online dealers. Older and less capable Fleck models such as the 5600 continue to remain available online.

Clack offer variations of their WS1 model such as time clock control (water filter) vs metered operation (water softener) and 1.25" porting vs 1". What size plumbing is in your home and is there any high volume fixtures (multi-head showers, hot tub etc)?

Thank you for the details.
Yes, they don't show the combined chlorine, but there is chloramine used and I have asked them to include that as well so it is transparent. Not sure if / when they do it.
From what the builder said, we have 1" plumbing - is there an easy way to find out without ripping the drywall near the water closure valve in the garage? Would it be the same size plumbing under the sink?

What would be your suggestion - what models should I setup in what configuration? Would any of the models I linked in the OP look ok? I'm not going the Culligan way for sure. Not sure about HydroSpring or Fleck or Aquasana, hence trying to get feedback from you experienced folks

Thank you

 

[intel2020]

I've been pouring over the recent threads and gotten a bit confused on the options. So, I'm going to lay out the situation and would appreciate any feedback to help guide me through this.........

I was in a similar spot with needing a new water treatment solution for pretty good city water, just very hard (~21 gpg). Saw all of the online systems available, but found this forum. This forum is by far the best I have found on the Internet for residential water treatment solutions and ideas to resolve existing water challenges. Based on all of my research, and the fact that I have owned two Fleck systems over the years which have been pretty much a "set and forget" solution for me, advice for many solutions on this site, I decided to stay with Fleck. My new solution is again Fleck (Pentair) based valve system, i.e. a 5810 XTR2 (softener) and 5810 STX (carbon to remove chlorine and other organics that carbon removes). Extremely happy with the system performance, cost, and support.

Here is my system: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx_owtKNMuwKb0wyQmMycENaWEE/view

 

[Flecktones]

I was in a similar spot with needing a new water treatment solution for pretty good city water, just very hard (~21 gpg). Saw all of the online systems available, but found this forum. This forum is by far the best I have found on the Internet for residential water treatment solutions and ideas to resolve existing water challenges. Based on all of my research, and the fact that I have owned two Fleck systems over the years which have been pretty much a "set and forget" solution for me, advice for many solutions on this site, I decided to stay with Fleck. My new solution is again Fleck (Pentair) based valve system, i.e. a 5810 XTR2 (softener) and 5810 STX (carbon to remove chlorine and other organics that carbon removes). Extremely happy with the system performance, cost, and support.

Here is my system: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx_owtKNMuwKb0wyQmMycENaWEE/view

That looks pretty neat! You have another RO system under the sink for drinking water ? How do I go about understanding how to setup this configuration? Are there approved dealers/vendors online or in Texas for this?

 

[intel2020]

*** Deleted my post ***

Feels like I offended some folks here with posting my my experience and project approach. Did not mean any to.

*** Good Luck ***

Again, thanks for all of the help to all that helped me, appreciated the education and assistance.

 

[ditttohead]

Lets start all over...

5.5 bathrooms, this would typically mean you have a 1.25" mainline. Can you confirm? The units you mentioned, no they are not worth it. Salt Free "Softening" is a term that will be removed in the near future from certain associations that specialize in water treatment. Softened water is water that has less than 1 GPG of hardness. Other units are conditioners.
For your application the 5600 is not large enough. That is a 3/4" valve. It may work, but it is not appropriate.

Their are appropriately sized systems available at reasonable prices like the Fleck 5810 or Clack WS125. These should be purchased from local dealers who actually understand local codes and installation requirements.

"The inlet and outlet diameter the water softener must match the diameter if the pipe at the installation location UPC610.2 There is a common notion that you can reduce the pipe size b one size... this is not the case. The code and compliance is far more complex than what I stated but that is a classroom topic, not a DIY board thing that can be typed in less than an hour.

The mixed bed design you listed above... not a fan. Calcite? Really, aren't we trying to remove calcite with the softener? KDF... it just falls to the bottom and doesn't do anything. Anthracite sounds neat but in all reality it is not needed at all. Non backwashing... I have gone over this multiple times, I will simplify it... use a backwashing valve on the carbon tank. If you want to know why just come to our offices and we will empty out a non backwashing carbon tank that has been in the filed for 2 years...

 

[Bannerman]

From what the builder said, we have 1" plumbing - is there an easy way to find out without ripping the drywall near the water closure valve in the garage?

A softener will typically be located close to the main water shutoff valve where the water feed enters the home. If a softener loop is not already installed and if main pipes are within the walls, some drywall will need to be temporarily removed to provide pipe access.

Would it be the same size plumbing under the sink?

Branch runs (to sinks and toilets) usually utilize smaller pipes, often 1/2" diameter. A softener servicing the entire house is to be installed on the main feed line. As Ditttohead mentioned, the incoming water line to a house with 5.5 baths is typically 1.25".

 

[Flecktones]

Thank you guys for the replies. Out this weekend, but on Sunday evening upon my return, I will rip out some drywall around the water shutoff valve in the garage to see the plumbing size, and reply back.

 

[ditttohead]

Post a picture of the ball valve in the garage. The valve should have the pipe size on it somewhere.

 

[Flecktones]

Had to remove the shelves in front. But looks like I have easy access to the plumbing pipe, there is an access on top of the water shutoff valve. Pictures attached.

The outer circumference for the translucent pipe on the left is about 4". I have a laundry drain right behind this wall that I can use as drain for the water softener system.

 

[Bannerman]

Pictures attached.

?


Edit: 4 photos now showing

 

[Flecktones]

?

I think it took time to upload and post, while I was editing the text.. hopefully you can see them now!

 

[Reach4]

The outer diameter for the translucent pipe on the left is about 4".

The circumference may be about 4 inches, but not the diameter. The circumference of 1 inch PEX is a little over 3.5 inches. The outer diameter is 1.125.

 

[Flecktones]

The circumference may be about 4 inches, but not the diameter. The circumference of 1 inch PEX is a little over 3.5 inches. The outer diameter is 1.125.

you are right. I edited the post correctly now to show circumference of the PEX translucent tube is 4"

 

[Flecktones]

The circumference may be about 4 inches, but not the diameter. The circumference of 1 inch PEX is a little over 3.5 inches. The outer diameter is 1.125.

The outer circumference is just a tad under 4" i would say. so would that make this a 1.25" PEX pipe? Thank you for the questions, helps guide me to where I should be going! What would you suggest on this

 

[ditttohead]

https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/120-121

These are available to slip right over the 1" PEX.