Help to determine well pump brand.

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Steve3000

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I just pulled my old pump and most of the lettering was scratched away. This is all I could see. Any help would be appreciative.
 

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Reach4

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Was there a label on the motor? That could provide a date code.
 

2stupid2fixit

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I just pulled my old pump and most of the lettering was scratched away. This is all I could see. Any help would be appreciative.

I'm going out on a limb here but I am guessing you pulled the pump up because it failed. I have found these things out from the last 9 months of experience.

1. Dont go by what pump was in your well. The pumps get to forget about engineering advances when they are down there for years.
2. Dont assume your well was installed by someone that knew what they were doing. The right pump is the result of a math calculation. A construction budget might have been a factor.
3. You may want to know what served your house so greatly for all those years, or you might think about how the house could have had better pressure.

At the end of the day, I have found this to be true: as more time goes on, it gets more and more difficult to buy a pump with longevity expectations. I know we have all heard the saying "they dont build things like they used to". From my observations, it seems this old saying was for the industry of well pumps. I yanked up a goulds with a frankin electric motor that was dropped in my well in 1974 and quit only very recently. If you wanted to buy a pump that could run that marathon now, its on the shelf next to bees knees, cans of steam and hen's teeth.


I am curious to know about your well... how deep is it? How far down does the pump live? What connects the pump to the house? Where does the water sit in the sleeve of your well bore? How many water using devices will it supply? I know you asked about a label but you yanked up a pump so I want the back story. You DID say any help would be appreciated, so perhaps the mistakes I made and the shortcuts I took would be of interest. My well is still a work in progress . I am trying to get my setup to give the end result the same way one would perfrom if it were connected to city water.
 
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Valveman

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I'm going out on a limb here but I am guessing you pulled the pump up because it failed. I have found these things out from the last 9 months of experience.

1. Dont go by what pump was in your well. The pumps get to forget about engineering advances when they are down there for years.
2. Dont assume your well was installed by someone that knew what they were doing. The right pump is the result of a math calculation. A construction budget might have been a factor.
3. You may want to know what served your house so greatly for all those years, or you might think about how the house could have had better pressure.

At the end of the day, I have found this to be true: as more time goes on, it gets more and more difficult to buy a pump with longevity expectations. I know we have all heard the saying "they dont build things like they used to". From my observations, it seems this old saying was for the industry of well pumps. I yanked up a goulds with a frankin electric motor that was dropped in my well in 1974 and quit only very recently. If you wanted to buy a pump that could run that marathon now, its on the shelf next to bees knees, cans of steam and hen's teeth.


I am curious to know about your well... how deep is it? How far down does the pump live? What connects the pump to the house? Where does the water sit in the sleeve of your well bore? How many water using devices will it supply? I know you asked about a label but you yanked up a pump so I want the back story. You DID say any help would be appreciated, so perhaps the mistakes I made and the shortcuts I took would be of interest. My well is still a work in progress . I am trying to get my setup to give the end result the same way one would perfrom if it were connected to city water.

Lol! You are right. They don't make them like they use too. Unfortunately, the "engineering advances" are what they use to make smaller, cheaper built pumps. They claim the "engineering advanced controls" will shut the pump down if there is a problem, so it doesn't need to be heavy duty to be long lasting. I am surprised at the number of people who fall for this hype. They are doing the same thing to automobiles, appliances, and other things. One engineer told me "they were designing in more efficiency, which unfortunately meant they were designing out reliability and longevity".

A heavy duty pump that uses a little more energy but will last 40 years, is much more efficient that a small pump that uses slightly less energy, but must be replaced 4 to 8 times in that same 40 years. It takes more energy to mine, manufacturer, transport, install, and even recycle several so called "efficient pumps" than if you just got a heavy duty one that would last 40 years without replacement.

Now if you want the same results as if connected to city water what you need is constant pressure. Again, you can have constant pressure with one of those "engineering advanced" variable speed pumps. However, those variable speed type pumps also knows as VFD's are the epitome of light weight, cheaply built pumps that need protection from anything that could cause a failure. But they make it sound so good people fall for it. You can also get good strong constant pressure from a simple and inexpensive Cycle Stop Valve or CSV. The CSV was blacklisted as a disruptive product to the pump industry as it makes pumps last longer and use smaller tanks. The CSV can make even cheaply built pumps last longer, which is exactly why you won't see any pump company promoting the CSV. They promote the VFD instead as it is much more profitable for them, which isn't good for the consumer. Here is a picture of a pump that last 52 years using a valve similar to CSV. The CSV will deliver the strong constant city like pressure you want, and will make the pump last many times longer in the process.
Hydroservant.jpg
 
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