Thought maybe if it was loose enough you could spin it a little. Don't know that a liner would help anything, but it probably won't hurt either.
Gonna be a fun day of fishing
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Alright, some delay, but finally ready to give this a shot. Rope is 1/2" PES rated for 9,200 lbs, but my puller is only rated for 4,000 lbs.
If it doesn't move like this, and if nothing breaks, I wonder if it might be worth running the pump with a very low flow to try and heat up the portion of the pipe it is stuck on. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
Here's my delivery device. Green tape is just to hold it together before it does down the well. Under the green tape is just some foam to keep the knot from sliding up the pipe. The thin white thread is water soluble and is just meant to keep the knot from falling off the pipe too early, although its a somewhat snug fit in the casing so that's probably redundant.
If it doesn't move like this, and if nothing breaks, I wonder if it might be worth running the pump with a very low flow to try and heat up the portion of the pipe it is stuck on. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
Here's my delivery device. Green tape is just to hold it together before it does down the well. Under the green tape is just some foam to keep the knot from sliding up the pipe. The thin white thread is water soluble and is just meant to keep the knot from falling off the pipe too early, although its a somewhat snug fit in the casing so that's probably redundant.
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Heating it up is a new idea. Might help. Don't know. But you would have to run at zero flow to get much heat. Even at 1 GPM flow a submersible will not get hot or even very warm.
It's finally out! Thanks everyone for bearing with me though this and for all the advice!
From what I can tell, it probably was deformed casing that was causing it to stick. All of the tape you see in the picture was cut after it was stuck, and the ground wire all came out on top on the pump.
Going to see if I can reuse the same pump, but above the damaged area. I think there's enough overhead in the water level for this pump's flow rate/pressure.
My scale was maxing out, but it was probably only about 500 lbs to free it. It came out freely after the first 1-2 feet of movement. The pipe was very damaged where my knot was pulling it, and I was pulling with another rope at the top of the drop pipe at the same time. I don't think it would have come out just from pulling at the top. As much of a pain as all of this was, I think it was worth the work to make the attempt this way.
From what I can tell, it probably was deformed casing that was causing it to stick. All of the tape you see in the picture was cut after it was stuck, and the ground wire all came out on top on the pump.
Going to see if I can reuse the same pump, but above the damaged area. I think there's enough overhead in the water level for this pump's flow rate/pressure.
My scale was maxing out, but it was probably only about 500 lbs to free it. It came out freely after the first 1-2 feet of movement. The pipe was very damaged where my knot was pulling it, and I was pulling with another rope at the top of the drop pipe at the same time. I don't think it would have come out just from pulling at the top. As much of a pain as all of this was, I think it was worth the work to make the attempt this way.
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Amazing! I didn't think you would get it out. Hope you can fish all that tape out of there and get the pump set above that spot and back to working. Do you have a pressure relief valve?
Yea I was starting to doubt too lol. I do have a relief valve near the pressure tank, but the pump can't generate enough pressure to open it, so not much help in its current state.
The pump itself is a 2007 Schaefer Tri-Seal 7LD05S4-2W230, driven by a 1/2 HP Franklin Electric 2445059004. Only rated for about 8.5 GPM at 160', which is similar to what I remember measuring a while back.
I took it apart a bit to inspect and clean. Overall it looks pretty good. A few things of note:
- The screen is plastic/rubber. Doesn't seem to be original. It just clips onto itself instead of screwing into the pump. The pump has threaded holes for screws in that area, and some abrasion that almost looks like someone grinding old screws off.
- There was what seemed to be the remains of a black washer at the base of the pump (just above where the motor shaft interfaces).
- Integrated check valve has a slight leak. Couldn't find any damage, so hopefully it will work better after being cleaned. I couldn't find any replacement parts available. If the integrated one still leaks, I'll probably add one on the drop pipe around 60' down (I plan to install the pump ~160').
Where I found the washer piece:
Old screws ground off?
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Good point, thanks for catching that. I'd already been thinking about adding a mid-way check valve since the manual for that pump recommends them every 100', but if the one in the pump is leaking then it should definitely be replaced with one near the pump.
Don't trust the built in check valve. Don't even put the poppet back in. It can stick the other way and not let the pump push any water. Do not put another check valve anywhere except right on the pump. Any other check valves will cause problems.
The pump looks fine. The motor will be fine also. But not building enough pressure to open the relief valve when the pressure switch fails or running dry is what causes it to get hot enough to melt the casing. All pressure relief valves are adjustable. Just take off the little cap and adjust the screw underneath. When the pump shuts off at 60 PSI, loosen the adjustment until the prv leaks. Then tighten ever so slightly until it stops leaking.
The rubber washer is just a sand slinger. It will work without it. The screen is useless, don't put it back either. I am still amazed at how much you accomplished.
The pump looks fine. The motor will be fine also. But not building enough pressure to open the relief valve when the pressure switch fails or running dry is what causes it to get hot enough to melt the casing. All pressure relief valves are adjustable. Just take off the little cap and adjust the screw underneath. When the pump shuts off at 60 PSI, loosen the adjustment until the prv leaks. Then tighten ever so slightly until it stops leaking.
The rubber washer is just a sand slinger. It will work without it. The screen is useless, don't put it back either. I am still amazed at how much you accomplished.
Saw your PM about filling with water. Fill it from the bottom. Water is all you need. Flush out the black stuff as best as you can. That black stuff is carbon from the thrust bearing so there is some wear, but might still last a long time if you don't let it get hot again.
Sounds good about the refill. Was wondering of the graphite in the fill solution might actually be aiding with lubrication.
Will do regarding the relief valve. I'll also slightly lower the cut out pressure for my switch. It's at the upper end of what my pump can generate. I think I'll find the max pressure while discharging .5 GPM or so, then set that as the cutout. Right now I'm guessing it has an excessively long period of very low flow to hit the cut out pressure.
Regarding the rubber washer, I think the perspective of the picture wasn't great. Here's a better picture of what I'm talking about. The red circle is where the piece was found. I was thinking the green circle was the sand slinger.
There can be sand slingers at both of those locations. But that is also the water intake, and that piece could be poly or anything.
Water is the best lubricant. Only need antifreeze if storing the motor in a cold place.
0.5 GPM will find the upper pressure limit of the pump. But you want to be working as far south of that number as you can. With a little change in water level or wear in the pump that long time to fill the tank turns into never getting the tank full, which is what causes the heat and will get you back into the same situation again.
Water is the best lubricant. Only need antifreeze if storing the motor in a cold place.
0.5 GPM will find the upper pressure limit of the pump. But you want to be working as far south of that number as you can. With a little change in water level or wear in the pump that long time to fill the tank turns into never getting the tank full, which is what causes the heat and will get you back into the same situation again.
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