Gluing/Epoxying a bidet mounting bracket to toilet? Good idea or bad idea?

[AmateurHomeowner]

Had a toto washlet for years and loved it. Bought an apartment, moved into it a couple years ago, and couldn't bring the bidet with me. I finally got around to getting a new Toto C5 washlet and realized my tankless floating Duravit toilet seat holes are too far apart for the toto mounting bracket. I solved the electrical and supply issues (going to the sink) but this might sink the whole project, which is very sad.

Is there any reason I wouldn't want to glue or epoxy the toto mounting bracket to the toilet? If so, would super glue be the right thing for porcelain or should I go for an epoxy of some sort?

I eventually plan to get rid of this Duravit and get a proper toilet to install correctly. I assume I can remove the glued/epoxied bracket at some later date with a heat gun or solvent or elbow grease. Am I assuming correctly?

Am I totally nuts? I have my first kid on the way (due late Feb) and really don't want to spend on a contractor or replacing the entire toilet right now.

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

I also briefly considered drilling new holes but that seemed liable to crack the whole toilet or inadvertently hit a space meant for water.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

can you bracket off one of the holes for the seat ?

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

can you bracket off one of the holes for the seat ?

Thanks for the response, Jeff. What do you mean exactly?

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Keep in mind that the seat must be attached to the bracket in order to function. I believe it uses continuity through the metal tabs or another sensor to "Know" that is attached.

The bracket is replaceable, so if it were ruined or stuck to the old duravit at the time of replacement, that wouldn't be the end of the world.

What model of Duravit toilet do you have?

The bracket for a washlet that I have on my desk will accommodate seat posts from 5" to 7-3/4" center to center.

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

Keep in mind that the seat must be attached to the bracket in order to function. I believe it uses continuity through the metal tabs or another sensor to "Know" that is attached.

The bracket is replaceable, so if it were ruined or stuck to the old duravit at the time of replacement, that wouldn't be the end of the world.

What model of Duravit toilet do you have?

The bracket for a washlet that I have on my desk will accommodate seat posts from 5" to 7-3/4" center to center.

If I do it right, attaching the mount shouldn’t interfere with the tabs. I’m just worried the glue or epoxy won’t hold fast without some sort of surface prep to give it something to grab.

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

Keep in mind that the seat must be attached to the bracket in order to function. I believe it uses continuity through the metal tabs or another sensor to "Know" that is attached.

The bracket is replaceable, so if it were ruined or stuck to the old duravit at the time of replacement, that wouldn't be the end of the world.

What model of Duravit toilet do you have?

The bracket for a washlet that I have on my desk will accommodate seat posts from 5" to 7-3/4" center to center.

Oh and the duravit model is 222509. The holes are 10 5/8ths apart more or less so won’t fit the mounting bracket.

 

[JohnCT]

Is there any reason I wouldn't want to glue or epoxy the toto mounting bracket to the toilet? If so, would super glue be the right thing for porcelain or should I go for an epoxy of some sort?

.

Not sure what you're attempting, but anything the requires real strength shouldn't rely on epoxy unless there's no safety issue.

John

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

Not sure what you're attempting, but anything the requires real strength shouldn't rely on epoxy unless there's no safety issue.

John

Worst case, my wife sits down to do her business and the seat moves or slips. That's probably hazardous to *my* health when she comes after me for not doing it right.

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

I'm going to explore 3d printing a mounting bracket for the mounting bracket. This will require me to raise the seat max ½ in. I'll need to ensure the toilet seat has ½" spacers where it contacts the toilet or I risk breaking the open/close mechanism. Will tool around with it and post back here when I have something working.

 

[Reach4]

Replacing the toilet now works.

If not, consider a non-electric bidet attachment to use with the existing toilet. If your seat is plastic, you will also need some add-on bumpers to keep the sagging seat from pinching the attachment. A wood seat may be rigid enough to not need the supplemental bumpers.

Would 3-d printing in plastic be strong enough? I wonder what it would cost to get something machined out of metal. Probably too much.

 

[AmateurHomeowner]

I appreciate the response, Reach. Replacing a wall-hung toilet is out of my comfort zone right now and I don't want to pay for a contractor to do it. In NYC, that's at least $1k from what I can tell.

Definitely hear you on the bumpers - the goal is that the seat doesn't sag at all. There's a mechanical auto-open/close system and I'm sure it wasn't designed to go beyond 90 degrees.

As for the 3d printed plastic, I'm pretty sure I can find something rigid and strong enough to hold. For a machined part, I worry about metal contacting porcelain. I want the piece to be rigid and strong enough it won't crack, but with just a little bit of play. I'd actually prefer that the mounting bracket breaks first, instead of the toilet or the bidet. That said, I've never heard of a break like this and the forces aren't big (I'm about 180 and my wife is skinny, even with bun in the oven).

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thanks for the response, Jeff. What do you mean exactly?

re read your original post Im not familiar with this particular bidet attachment can you re drill the attachment or make adapter plate to the match your w/c?