Frequent Cycling, frequent reset switch tripping

[jmoser]

Yes it could very well be a bad reset button. Those are not made to be reset very many times. The silver capacitor should be fine. If you have replaced the black capacitor and square black relay, you might as well put on a new reset button. It should only be tripping if the amps are greater than SFA, which I think is 11 something on your pump.

Also, you will need to either plug the bleeder down the well or make sure it is a brass one before switching to a diaphragm style tank and using a Cycle Stop Valve.

Oh no, plugging the bleeder valve means pulling everything up, since I believe it is very close to the pump/motor? Thats a pretty big job for me.
I will check with my well company to see if they know what kind of bleeder is installed. If it is not brass, what is the risk?
Thanks

 

[Valveman]

The bleeder shouldn't be more than 5' down the well. All you need is a 3/4 plug. But it is important to know that it is a brass one or plug it when switching from a hydro pneumatic tank to a diaphragm or bladder tank.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[jmoser]

The bleeder shouldn't be more than 5' down the well. All you need is a 3/4 plug. But it is important to know that it is a brass one or plug it when switching from a hydro pneumatic tank to a diaphragm or bladder tank.

Please explain why it is important for it to be a brass bleeder, what are the risks if it is not?

 

[Valveman]

Please explain why it is important for it to be a brass bleeder, what are the risks if it is not?

The rubber bleeder orifice will pop out from the threads at about 75 PSI. A brass bleeder can take a lot of pressure. If it is a brass bleeder it can take the extra back pressure from a CSV. Then leaving out the check valve above ground will keep the brass bleeder from ever opening up, and you don't have to pull it up 5' and plug the bleeder to work with a CSV and a bladder/diaphragm style tank.