Thanks guys, this is a great site.
I would use clear silicone in between the SS and glass ...
Use masking tape to protect each side of the joint while applying the silicone . Tool it flat while forcing it into the joint and remove the excess until is flat and nice looking , leaving as little as possible of silicone residue on the masking tape near the joint . Remove the masking tape and you should be done . If you prefer to practice before doing it , make a sample set up with 2 tiles as per your application .
OK, the overhead joint will be the only clear on the job. I'm not very good at caulking but somehow, over the years, my wife has come to believe I'm a caulking God. But that impression is from simple, small corner beads without masking, not overhead gaps between glass and metal! I will try to apply it as evenly as possible but I'll be working with a large hole in the end of the tube and some areas are bound to have more caulk behind. I'm thinking it might sag unevenly after tooling due to the weight of the caulk above various sections of the joint.
1) Do some clear silicones have a more stiff consistency/less sag out of the tube? Would you refrigerate the tube of silicone before using? Recommendations on clear silicone for this application? I'll be placing an order via Internet so availability is not a concern.
For the rest -- tile to glass joint and tile to SS -- , I would suggest you to do the silicone -- before grouting --the same color as your grout color for the tiles .
Using an epoxy grout like Spectralock -- it will work great for your application -- from Laticrete may also be beneficial -- white or light colors -- .No sealer needed , non staining and just benefits . Latasil comes in white color so you should be fine .
I'm still open to epoxy or urethane grout although I have done a test board with CBP Polyblend cement grout in brilliant white and was so pleased with the result I've grouted the outside left side of the curb with it (but there's no reason I can't switch for the wet areas).
2)Did you bring up epoxy grout at this point due to color consistency to match the silicone caulk or other considerations? I'm aware of the many advantages but I think in terms of color match I am very easy to please and bright white is a relatively easy color to match.
The shower floor is grouted with Bostik Urethane Dimensions grout and I think it made it easy to fill the deep and narrow grout lines in the stone mosaic floor without leaving voids and it resulted in a superior, slightly flexible monolithic result but it was stressful cleaning it up as it began to dry on the surface. Not sure I want that kind of stress. I still need to clean up the surface a bit better.
I'm interested in the order or grouting/caulking. On the JB forum I saw a preference for grouting first/caulking second but, when I asked for details I was met with silence which is the typical response (lack of) so I've just about given up wasting my time. But on the small portion I've done so far I've grouted first, caulked second which is maybe not ideal.
I wouldn't worry much about the textured face of the glass panel . Masking tape the glass as good as possible -- leave around 1/32 higher -- and take your time .
I don't have a spare piece of rain glass to practice with.
3) When I tape I assume I should push the tape into the indentations in the glass texture. The problem I'm trying to anticipate is that I don't think I can tool all of the white caulk out of the indentations and when I pull the tape it will pull the remaining caulk and leave a 'torn' or ragged edge? How soon do I need to pull the tape after tooling (before it begins to skin)? Maybe for the textured side of glass at the bottom I should switch to clear silicone so any messiness doesn't show through to the inside of the shower? Other recommendations? What about applying the caulk bead without masking and then misting it with the tooling/no-stick agent before smoothing the bead with my finger or a tool misted with the tooling agent?
Sanded white caulk is probably siliconised acrylic and is not as resistant as 100% silicone for a shower application .
I have used sanded white (siliconised) on dry areas outside the shower but I was under the impression that the companies you mentioned above offered sanded silicone caulk. I need to place an order but am completely undecided on brands because I have so little to go on. My priorities look like this:
1) Resistance to mold/mildew
2) Durability
3) Ease of tooling
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15) Exact color match
Maybe because I'm one of the 10% of all males who have some form of genetic color blindness, LOL!
4) Recommendations for sanded and unsanded white silicone caulk keeping in mind my priorities? Again, will be an Internet order.
Any and all feedback appreciated before diving into this last phase of this long-running project is appreciated more than I can say.