Euro toilet installation

[coachv]

don't know why i need a flange. is there any reason the method i selected with the help of others will not work? if the fernco will not work in the drain pipe due to the rough interior, is there an adapter that can reduce the drain opening from a roughed up 4" diameter to a smooth 3" diameter?

 

[hj]

Do you mean it only has a single bolt in the rear? Regardless of how many bolts there are they must not connect the toilet to the flange, which is necessary for a proper seal.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

I have installed some crazy toilets in the past. We did these Italian jobs in vancouver.

The toilet is Italian.
The fitting that connects to back waste to a bottom waste is German.
The carrier is English.
But it took Canadian know how to install!

​

The secret was installing the carrier to the toilet and drywall prior to installation and then dropping the entire rig down over the waste outlet. Not my proudest moment but a job I thought I would only have to do once. I was wrong because three years later we rend'd the master ensuite.

The bidet was a piece of cake to install. The toilet not so hard after learning how to do it three years earlier.​

I would not be relying on epoxy or adhesive to hold a plate down. Who gave you that lame idea? The dude in the orange vest?

Good Luck

 

[Koa]

koa, i couldn't understand the concept of the bar stock. isn't bar stock cylindrical, like rebar?

I meant flat bar stock, say 1/8" X 2" X 2". If you prep correctly, rough up all surfaces, epoxy will hold the toilet down. The toilet would probably crack before the epoxy failed if you over tighten the nuts.

For the last 18 months I've been working on a friend's 65 year old house, restoring wood using West Systems epoxy that had dry rot, termite and carpenter bee damage, some in structural places. I've also repaired my fiberglass boat with epoxy and set structural bolts in concrete with epoxy (as many people have done).

Although, it might be easier to rent a drill and diamond coring bit (maybe need to buy the bit) and drill the two holes.

 

[coachv]

hj,

two bolts in rear. if what you say is true, every single one of these toilets sold and installed does not have the necessary tight seal. they must use a different system than the flange around the drain. europe always seems to be about 20 years ahead of us when it comes to style and technology in the home. as i said earlier, i have already successfully installed one a year and a half ago without any problem. the difference being, wood floor which allowed me to use regular double threaded johnny bolts. the other big difference was a 3" pvc sewer drain pipe. this allowed me to use a fernco waxless seal. i have to assume you are unfamiliar with this product. it comes with adhesive on it and you attach it to the bottom of toilet first, around the horn, then drop the fernco extension down into drain. ribs on fernco pop and lock into drain giving tight seal. can't say how long it will last but no leaks or sewer smell so far. seems like the future to me.

the center of the horn still measures 12" from back wall, like american toilets.

adding pics is something i haven't conquered with my chromebook as there is no hard drive.

mr. whipple,

i assume the decorative display of toilet paper was your idea? you sure did some beautiful work. love that compact toilet. why would using construction adhesive in this application be lame? if it is holding my cheap metal exterior threshold to concrete in sub-zero temps while being stepped on all day, every day, why wouldn't this hold up? toilet is one-piece, very heavy. floor level so there should be no rocking.

koa,

i am using something similar to bar stock and i have a guy welding 1/2" headless bolts to that which i plan to "epoxy" to the floor behind toilet. assuming it holds fast i now have bilts to fasten toilet to. the next problem is the rough cast iron drain pipe which may preclude me from using the fernco. i have seen some compression flanges while researching online and maybe i can get some advice here. i'm thinking if i can use one to reduce drain from 4" to 3" i will be all set. the flange isn't for providing bolts for the toilet, it will be for providing secure purchase for a fernco or something similar which would affix the the bottom of the toilet.

 

[coachv]

the push tite flange recommended by reach4 may work. don't think i would necessarily need to bolt it to the concrete floor. maybe construction adhesive for that as well. what i can't tell is if it would reduce drain opening to 3" which is what i need to do i think

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

I think you best upload a bunch of pictures so we can all look at what your up against. For the life of me I have a hard time understanding your pickle.

I do not like the idea of construction adhesive to hols anything long term. To fill voids yes. To bond well yes. But not for seasons of thermal expansion. The older it is the more brittle it becomes.

I've used a Twist-N-Set toilet flange 3" into a 4" line before and set the bottom portion of this to the tile with Kerdi Fix once a while back. Used a second layer after and then silicone the toilet to the floor around the perimeter. That toilet was the only one I can recall that we had no mechanical fasteners.

For me it makes no sense not to bang in a couple of proper bolts. They cost like $4.00 each. Coring bit is like maybe $20.00. Demo hammer with bit for four hours maybe $25.00.

 

[Jadnashua]

I'm not a big fan of epoxy, but if you choose the right one, it will work. Hassle is, many of those are industrial, and you may not be able to buy them, or they are only available in larger quantities. Modern construction adhesives can replace conventional fasteners, but finding the right one and prepping the materials can be quite exacting. The Boston 'Big Dig' (the most expensive public works project in the USA) used epoxy to anchor the bolts holding 1/2T concrete suspended panels in the tunnel...the company didn't use the epoxy that was spec'ed, and a panel fell, crushing a passing car and killing the occupant. Cost many millions of dollars to fix that phewpa. Holding your toilet down isn't anywhere near as critical, but is still an issue if it leaks. A simple bolt, drilled into the subflooring or slab should work.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Jim you work for Schluter. What type of construction adhesive do they use to set the Kerdi to the line drain?

 

[Jadnashua]

Jim you work for Schluter. What type of construction adhesive do they use to set the Kerdi to the line drain?

Beats the hell out of me...I get no compensation from any manufacturer, so get no more consideration than most anyone else. They let me go to their workshops, but then they let almost anyone in the trade do that for free. Because I do expend a fair amount of time on forums, they let me in, just like they do for project managers, sales clerks, administrative people, and actual tile setters, because having the correct information is useful to their branding. Same is true with most of the other manufacturers. In the last one I attended at Laticrete, probably only about 1/2 of the 35 people attending actually worked in the field setting tile, the rest were either in sales or admin or design and never actually touched or installed the stuff.