do my sketches look up to code? or "good enough" persay....

[Christopher Fornshil]

hello all!

i am in need of some advice. here is the story. i decided to eel out my main sewage pipe a handful of months ago. got one from ace hardware for $30 or so instead of payin someone $200 to come out and do it. well.....i ended up getting eel stuck!!! it went through the 1935 cast iron pipe and i could not get it out for nothing!

i have gotten that sorta fixed since then. i now have a temporary clean out and big hole in my basement floor. the guys said i've never seen my eel guy work so hard to get through roots!

to make this story shorter....i have old clay tile out front of the house. was told years ago it wasn't very good. took the tree down (that someone let grow/planted right on top of the gas line and sewage line!!) so now i 'm currently waiting to have all new PVC done from the house to the sewer under the road.

i figure if the cast iron that the eel went through isn't very good. no need to dig up the basement floor to replace that when i can run new PVC along the walls over to the new access point where the mainline will be going out.

i've done some researching and talked to a friend of the family to get some ideas to see if i am doing this correct. i am trying to do this myself to save some money seeing how i've already spent 2500 bucks between the tree and the hole in my basement with another $6k or so to go on the outside new piping!! the friend of the family has not gotten back to me in over a month. not sure whats up him but i've heard nothing. so scratch that idea!

anyway you guys to help a guy out and give me some advice? anything would be appreciated!

i've attache some pics of what my current setup looks like and what my proposed sketches are. the excact measurements i can figure out later. my biggest concern is the washer side and the p-trap along with the AAV. kinda hard to read the sketches since i did them in pencil. but i was changing stuff as i went! =]


thanks a million!!
chris

 

[Reach4]

Do sewers ever backup from the street in your area? Since you are doing all of this work, you might want to consider converting to overhead sewers. Your local sewer department could probably give you good advice in this regard.

Your drawings are hard to read. Do you have a flat bed scanner, or maybe re-take your photos of the notebook using more light.

I don't think the pipe and AAV you labeled as "vent" has a function.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

Impossible to read.

 

[hj]

This IS a drawing of an "overhead" sewer.

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

sorry guys....hopefully these are better. i'm not sure what you mean by overhead sewers. the current sewage line is about 2 feet below the basement floor. i'm trying to get the kitchen side over to the opposite side of the house and tie in with the bathroom then go into the new sewage line which will be about 3 feet higher than current.

this way has got to be WAY cheaper than digging up more concrete in the basement floor! =]

 

[Reach4]

i'm not sure what you mean by overhead sewers.

There can be different definitions. https://www.elmhurst.org/DocumentCenter/View/610/Overhead-sewer has some before and after drawings. http://www.robertbair.com/blog/what-is-an-over-head-sewer

Sometimes you put an added new sewer line, that serves farther away bathrooms, around the house joining together before the street. That can avoid a long run across the basement ceiling.

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

There can be different definitions. https://www.elmhurst.org/DocumentCenter/View/610/Overhead-sewer has some before and after drawings. http://www.robertbair.com/blog/what-is-an-over-head-sewer

Sometimes you put an added new sewer line, that serves farther away bathrooms, around the house joining together before the street. That can avoid a long run across the basement ceiling.

well the bathroom is on the side of the new sewage pipe. kitchen is on the other side of the house and the driveway is right next to the house then the neighbors are a few feet away. also that sounds like more money! LOL

i don't plan on running along the floor joists. head clearance is very close already. i plan on running along the wall all the way over about 30 ft or so.

the guy i was talking to said that todays new washers need to be vented. thats why i have that AAV where i do. figure it cheaper to do that than run 35 feet of pipe over to the main vent stack on the other side of the house.

 

[Reach4]

the guy i was talking to said that todays new washers need to be vented. thats why i have that AAV where i do.

If that pipe coming down to the santee a the standpipe is not a vent, you need to move that AAV over to the trap arm for the standpipe. Once you do that, you could keep the santee, or use a combo there, or you could turn down before joining the drain line.

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

so you are saying the vent should be here? the pipe coming down is from the sink/dishwasher. no vent there. the only vent is on the other side of the house where the bathroom is.

i was thinking of the bottom tee to be a clean out point if need be on the left side.

 

[Reach4]

so you are saying the vent should be here?

Yes. There are different opinions on the fitting to use. Everybody would like a combo with the incoming air sweeping to the right of the picture. A lesser fitting may be acceptable too.

Here is another thing to know. When you go from vertical to horizontal, your tee needs to be a combo. Or you can use a wye and a 45.

http://www.co.lincoln.or.us/sites/d..._-_helpful_hints_residential_construction.pdf Has some stuff for you. Not all places have the same rules, so don't use that as your only source.

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

thanks for the info guys! i was mostly concerned with the AAV and the smaller fittings. the bathroom side i would assume needs a combo also coming down and then going horizontal. i will check into that website.

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

this look better? i've read 2" is good for kitchen side. so should i run 2" all the way around to the bathroom vertical then switch over to 4"? also where does the 18" max for the p-trap end at? the bottom of the trap? top left end? right side end?

i will have to do some playin around with tryin to figure out what to use for the 4" in coming down where it will tie into the new sewage pipe coming into the wall. do the combo y-1/8 look better than the santee's?

thanks again!

 

[Reach4]

Everybody will like that.

also where does the 18" max for the p-trap end at?

https://www.nachi.org/gallery/?level=picture&id=2325 says middle of the trap arm. I don't know if Ohio has such a rule.

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

Everybody will like that.



https://www.nachi.org/gallery/?level=picture&id=2325 says middle of the trap arm. I don't know if Ohio has such a rule.

sweet....thank you very much!! hope you saved me some $$$ and this works out for me doin it myself! i am willing to go with the flow as far as rules. LOL

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

my dad is worried about the part that connects the kitchen side to the bathroom then into the new sewage pipe. he has been in construction for a long time but not so much as a plumber. he wonders if there needs to be another drop involved before it goes into the 4" pipe to keep the bathroom side from going into the kitchen side pipe....

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

got around to doin some measuring and the first "good" plan had 2 combo y's coming down form the sink/dishwasher area. figured out that is not gonna work! 18in for the p-trap and i have to travel over 42 ft. the 2 combo's both add up to 15" in height which would only leave me with 3". i need a drop of 10 1/2" over to the other side of the house! i'm thinkin this is still fine and also just cleaned it up a bit by eliminating a combo.

opinions? still look like good flow?

thanks
chris

 

[Christopher Fornshil]

well went with what i had. the p-trap is set at 24". got everything set up and tested the flow. put 2 qts in and got 2 qts back at the other end! i think its gonna turn out great! thanks guys!