Desperately Seeking Help to Get Water Going Again

[Mimi73]

Hi, I am desperately hoping someone would please help me to get our water going again. I have searched and read trying to figure this out, but am clueless, and just do not know where to go from here. I don't think it's the pump because I haven't noticed any symptoms that I've read are related to the pump failing, but I could be wrong. I'm thinking it's not the switch because it's getting power, but could be wrong. I don't know anything about the tank and can't seem to find any information about it, so I'm not sure if I should try adding air to it, or if it has a bladder that may be ruined and need to replace it with a new tank, or what?

We have a Red Jacket Grizzly 1hp submersible pump, Con-Aire Controlled Air Water tank (not sure of size/capacity), and 20/40 Square-D pump switch originally set up around 1978-79. I'm not sure if pump is original or if it was replaced at some point. I'm pretty sure the tank has never been replaced and is original. Just recently had to replace the pump switch because it burned out. The first replacement didn't work, so got another one and it seemed to be working fine for a day, but then it stopped working. Got another one and it is getting power, but we aren't getting any water.

I have attached a picture hoping that will be of help. I would very much appreciate any and all help with this to get our water going again. Thank you so much.

 

[Reach4]

1. On the pressure switch, what is the voltage between terminals 2 and 3?
2. Is there a control box on the wall-- not the pressure switch but a box wired between the pressure switch and the pump?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Like Reach says check for 240 volts across the second and third terminal of the pressure switch. If you have 240V there and no control box after the pressure switch you will then need to check amps with a clip around AC amp meter on one of the same wires. Normal amps would mean a hole in the pipe. Low amps would mean out of water, pump worn, or something clogged. Zero amps means a broke wire or the overload in the motor has tripped and won't reset.

Con-Aire was one of the worst tanks made. I would guess the bladder has been bad for decades. This causes the pump to cycle on and off way too often and way too rapidly. Burned points in the pressure switch are the first sign of a bad tank or too much cycling. I am amazed it lasted as long as it did.

When you get the pump working or replaced you need to replace the tank. Replacing the tank with one a PK1A kits using a 4.5 gallon size tank is an upgrade that will address the cycling issue for you. https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick