Deck mounted bath faucet replacement help

[Fernando]

I recently purchased a condo (first time home buyer) and it wasn't till later i found this problem.

There is a small section of either (3/4" or 1") galv pipe or regular steel used to attach the faucets (two, one on either side) to the 1/2" copper plumbing coming from the wall. One is completely rusted and the faucet rusted off, the other is showing signs of rust also. The issue is how to replace the parts, there's no brand marking on any of the faucets or knobs (the place was built in 1974) and I've stopped by a couple of plumbing places who said i needed that, but I don't think i do? I'm only replacing the faucets and the part that connects to the copper line.

Here is the tub, I've removed the front and removed some of the bracing to make access easier

the faucet left a rust stained so I though i could fix it and saw no set screw so I spun it and it broke off

this is underneath the broken faucet

this is under the faucet that isn't broken

the 1/2" line that feeds the one side, the 3/4" runs around the tube to feed the other faucet.

its a tight fit but I've removed the horizontal 2x4s and the vertical 2x4 bracing so its possible to reach the work area.

the two options I've come up with
1. remove everything off the 1/2" line and braze a coupler with an 1/2" copper piece that stick above the tub and use a slip-on spout?
2. leave the piece that is threaded on the 1/2" line, get a copper/brass nipple with a piece of 1/2" copper and attach that OR use a long nipple like before but only copper instead?

This is what I've though of so far, but i'm open to suggestions.. and if you are a professional plumber, how much would you charge? (so I have an idea of costs). Thanks in advance.

The plan is to eventually remodel the bathroom in 5 years time, so I am hoping to not pay a lot (for a plumber or in parts) than i should if I will be removing it in the near future.

I'm hoping to DIY, I'm mechanically inclined, having done roofing, framing, sheetrock as an teenager and and building cell towers fr years, plus I've already replaced a air vent, kitchen faucet, hot and cold shut off valves and lines to the other bath sink.

 

[WorthFlorida]

You're just going to have to buy a new faucet. If you know how to solder copper fitting it is not that hard. Access might be a problem. However, a real easy way to replace the faucet is cut the copper pipes, and use Sharkbit fittings. How to connect to the faucet depends on its own fittings. The real magic is where are the valves? Is it only the spot that broke off?

ANother solution is cut the pipe to the broken spot, use a sink hole cap to cover the hole and add replacement tub spout buy drilling a hole somewhere on the inside wall of the tub but this could allow the tub water level to go above the spout.

You can just use the same rusty hole and use 1/2" pipe to fashion your own spout. A few 90 & 45 degree elbows, Like you said, need it just for a few years.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Asktom]

Drilling a hole in the side of the tub is a bad idea. Even if you manage to make things watertight at the base of the spout it would be illegal. The outlet of the spout needs to be above the top of the tub.

 

[Terry]

There needs to be an air gap of at least an inch between the top of the tub and the spout.
There is plenty of space to mount a new spout on the top there.

 

[Fernando]

You're just going to have to buy a new faucet. If you know how to solder copper fitting it is not that hard. Access might be a problem. However, a real easy way to replace the faucet is cut the copper pipes, and use Sharkbit fittings. How to connect to the faucet depends on its own fittings. The real magic is where are the valves? Is it only the spot that broke off?

Yeah, after thinking about it more and researching, I may have to cut the pipe down for a rough-in kit (if i use one) anyway, which would help with moving the joint down away from being next to the horizontal 2x4.

The valves are wall mounted to the left, Hot - Shower - Cold, those are fine, no issues or leaks there. The good thing about this fix is that I shouldn't need to turn off water to the entire place as the fix is on this side of the valves.

Yes, its the only spot, everything else looks good, just need to replace the faucets and the short nipples to something that won't rust or give me issues until the remodel.

 

[FullySprinklered]

You're not providing us with any useful information. Where in the blue-blazing hell are the valves? What is that white pipe with the escutcheon sticking up out of the deck? A flagpole? Talk to me.

 

[Fernando]

You're not providing us with any useful information. Where in the blue-blazing hell are the valves? What is that white pipe with the escutcheon sticking up out of the deck? A flagpole? Talk to me.

If you read each post, then you would've come across the part where I said this

The valves are wall mounted to the left, Hot - Shower - Cold, those are fine, no issues or leaks there.

The white pipe is a shower tension caddy similar to this

I'm basically looking to replace the spouts only and need to figure a way to make the transfer from 1/2" copper to whatever the attachment is for the spouts. I don't need valves, knobs, rough-ins, re-routing or new lines, just looking for help and ideas to make it as professionally, clean and correct as possible.

 

[FullySprinklered]

So, the spout is more or less deck-mounted, and the valves are wall mounted?

Always nice to inherit something that somebody made up on the job.

I'm a Cliff Notes kind of person, so I didn't pick up on the real issue at hand. I was still thinking standard installation.

The most critical issue is whether or not you can reach up into that mess enough to tighten the nut on the new spout that you're going to have to get.

From there, you'll need to connect a hose to the bottom of the spout shank and connect it to the feed.

Grandkids just showed up. I'll be back.

 

[FullySprinklered]

I'm back. If you're going to smash all this out in five years, feel free to browse in the Shark-bite department down at Depot, and find something that'll make for an easy install. A thirty-inch flex lavatory supply tube and a 1/2 push x 1/2 mad with a 1/2 fad x 3/8 compression adapter. Screw the other end onto the faucet shank. Hope I'm thinking clearly on this. Kids are still here.

 

[Fernando]

I did get a decent fix done, I don't think I'll ever use the bath tub more than 5 times ever, and I would mostly use the tub faucets to fill a bucket or wash out a ice cooler. And I did decide to use a 1/2 in. FIP x 1/2 in. FIP x 20 in. braided supply line, along with a Sharkbite 1/2" brass Push-to-Connect x 3/4 in. Male Pipe Thread Adapter, along with a deck mounted tub faucet.

Supply line $6 x 2=$ 12
Sharkbite fittings $7 x 2=$ 14
Faucets $12 x 2=$ 24 (Lowe's, this was the hardest part to find, a plumbing supply had one Delta brand for $150)
total: $50 plus a pipe cutter, teflon, and the sharkbite fitting remover.

Before:

After:

Now I just need to reinstall the 2x4 supports, front cover and finish scarping off the old silicone and add new beads.

Updating this so if anyone has the same issue can find and hopefully this will help.