Cycle Sensor Currents/Storage Tank

Users who are viewing this thread

Theeplaymaker

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
Hello,

I've posted before about installing a storage tank and I finally got it installed. Currently I need to run separate lines from each well to the tank as I have them sharing the feed with a check valve on each line, top side. From reading and going against my better judgment I know that is a no-no now. I built a panel with an alternating relay to switch them each tank fill. The one line had bad water hammer and I installed an arrestor that seemed to fix the issue or caused a new issue.

The pumps are both set around 325-375' if I remember correctly, both 3/4 hp and one is 5 gpm, the other 7 gpm. The one runs underground and across the house probably another 250'-300' from the pitless. The other is in my basement water room where the tank is.

The well with the long run from outside is the one that had the bad water hammer when pumping directly into the storage tank, it's 1" pvc running along the floor joists. This one I installed the hammer arrestor between the pump and top side check valve and it fixed the issue for a few days.

Everything was working great with the well in the basement running dry on large fills which it has always been the weaker well.

Then we had a cold snap and both wells seem to have gone to crap. They are definitely running out of water since if I let them sit for a few hours, they'll pump about 10-25 gallons then be shut off by the cycle sensor.

My main questions are this.

Does running the wells wide open into the storage tank cause any issues? I have the ball valve throttled about 45 degrees that goes from where the 2 wells converge to the storage tank.

Before the water table seems to have dropped, both wells would run around 6.3 amps on the CS. Now they run around 6 amps and then drop to 4.3 when out of water before the CS shuts them down. Does this sound like they are running dry as I am thinking?

Just want to see if there is anything I'm missing.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,638
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Before the water table seems to have dropped, both wells would run around 6.3 amps on the CS. Now they run around 6 amps and then drop to 4.3 when out of water before the CS shuts them down. Does this sound like they are running dry as I am thinking?

6 amps running instead of 6.3 makes me think the static water level has dropped. And yes when it drops to 4.3 the pump has run dry and the Cycle Sensor is doing as it should and protecting your pump. If they run at least a minute when they come on there is really no need to restrict the flow.

Both pumps should have check valves on them at the bottom of the well. So, you really shouldn't need the extra check valve before the lines converge. And those extra check valves are most likely the cause of the water hammer on start up. As long as the checks on the pumps are working they are the only ones needed, and you really don't have to split the feed to the tank. just remove the extra checks.
 

Theeplaymaker

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
Thanks! When I got home today after letting the wells sit for about 18 hours they combined pumped about 35-40 gallons. Enough to get my tank up to about 75 gallons so we could shower and do a load in the dishwasher. CS was showing around 6.08-6.1 amps so it appears the 1.5" of rain over the weekend helped. Going to keep the CS on a 4 hour restart which will in effect let each well rest 8 hours and hopefully build it back up over the next few days with some water conservation.
 

Theeplaymaker

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
Do you think dropping the pumps an extra 20' would make a difference? How do I know if its at the bottom of the well? I assume more sediment and dirt in the tank when pumping, any other way to tell without any special tools?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,914
Reaction score
4,444
Points
113
Location
IL
Do you think dropping the pumps an extra 20' would make a difference? How do I know if its at the bottom of the well? I assume more sediment and dirt in the tank when pumping, any other way to tell without any special tools?
The county may have the well records. The driller would probably have the well records.
 

LLigetfa

DIYer, not in the trades
Messages
7,508
Reaction score
581
Points
113
Location
NW Ontario, Canada
I would expect the well recovery to be on a curve with diminishing returns as it gets closer to the static level so I would set the recovery time shorter if you need more water.
 

Theeplaymaker

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
I would expect the well recovery to be on a curve with diminishing returns as it gets closer to the static level so I would set the recovery time shorter if you need more water.

This comment is along the lines of what I was thinking. It's only going to build up to a certain level and I need to find the time that will achieve that to get the most water.

Running dry is obviously hard on the pumps but what is the general consensus on pump life as long as it's running roughly a minute to dissipate the heat built up during initial start?
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,638
Reaction score
1,304
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Pumps are made to run 24/7/365. The more starts and the shorter the run time, the shorter the pump/motor life. Two minutes of run time is better, but one minute will still dissipate most of the heat and the pump should last a good long time.
 

Theeplaymaker

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Pennsylvania
I shortened the float length and moved it up the pole a little to hopefully allow the pumps to get a full run without running dry and fill the tank. I had it set to take about 50-60 gallons with the float length so hopefully 25-40 will be more manageable. I also changed the CS reset time to 3 hours instead of 4 to see if that is what it takes to get back to static level. It still seems my water table is low since it's back to 6-6.05 amps when running. Thanks for all of the help and validating my thoughts. Here's to hoping the rain we are expecting next week helps get the water table back up.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks