If it's actually hitting the 180F high-limit you may get some relief by bumping that up to 215F, but if you're looking at 1 minute burns it probably won't be enough. It needs more hysteresis between the high & low, which may or may not be separately controlled on your system. Ideally you'd get at least a 5 minute minimum burn (10 minutes even better). If there is no separate low-limit aquastat, note the boiler temp when the burner kicks on those short cycles, as well as the high temp when it kicks off. If it's less than a 20F hysteresis you can probably stretch that to at least 3 minutes by bumping the high limit up, and dropping the low limit to 140F or so (even if it takes retrofitting a heat-purging economizer control such as the Intellicon 3250 or Beckett Heat Manager), which would improve efficiency measurably. With 1 minute burns it's wearing out the boiler and cutting efficiency by at least 10% below the AFUE test numbers, and in your case it's probably by more than 15%.
Got a model # for boiler, and it's approximate age? (The model number of the aquastat might also be useful.)
Having multiple zones makes the problem worse- even if the boiler isn't oversized for the radiation with all zones calling for heat, it's probably WAY oversized for any one zone, particularly the smaller zone. Unless the radiation in the zone is sufficient to deliver ALL of the boiler's output to the rooms, it will cycle. What is the boiler's output BTUs on the name-plate (the DOE number, not the I=B=R number, if it has both)? And, how much/what type of heat emitters are on each zone?
Outdoor reset would only make the short-cycling worse, since outdoor reset controls lower the average output temperature of the boiler during moderate weather, increases it for the deep cold. At lower water temps the radiation delivers even less heat to the zones (which is why raising the temps might keep it from cycling during a sustained call for heat, or would at least lengthen the burns somewhat, since a larger fraction of the boiler output is being emitted by the radiation.) Outdoor reset is great from a comfort point of view since it delivers more even room temps, but without a high hysteresis it'll kill the boiler's efficiency quicker than dumb controls with hotter high-limit would.
The Intellicon & Beckett controllers "learn" the system and exercise the available thermal mass of the system with as high a hysteresis as possible, and figures out from the behaviors of the system how to anticipate the end of a call for heat, cutting the burners early and letting the system purge heat from the boiler at the finish. On a new call for heat if the boiler's temp is above the programmed low-limit it inhibits the burners until the radiation pulls enough heat out of the boiler to drop it to the low limit. This approach maximizes the burn length while minimizing cumulative burner on-time. It may not fully cure the short-cycle, but it'll make a difference, and will deliver higher efficiency than an outdoor reset controller on YOUR system. On high-mass systems where short-cycling is not an issue outdoor reset can be somewhat more efficient than a heat-purging economizer. Outdoor reset really comes into it's own with modulating-condensing boilers, where the raw combustion efficiency of the burner sees huge increases when the water coming back from radiation can be kept under 125F while still keeping the place warm, but even a mod-con boiler's efficiency get's clobbered if it's short-cycling on zone calls. But that's not your boiler, and cool water returns could shorten your boiler's service life even quicker than short-cycling.