Combi Boiler-Newbie needs answers

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Bob1958

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Dana I guess then I don't know what you mean by this:
"It's common to heat hot water with a mod-con using an indirect fired tank that has a heat exchanger coil rather than it's own burner & flue."

It sound like a separate unit..Do you have an example of one?

It sounds like both you and Rob_NY both like this unit: HTP UFT-080w. I am back to thinking 4 zone for more independent comfort per zone and your math makes sense for this unit.

BTW, how much does short cycling lessen the life of a boiler?
 

Dana

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An indirect water heater is a tank with an internal heat exchanger using hot water heated by the boiler, which is distinct from a separate water heater with it's own burner that would need it's own flue.

Not to be overhyping HTPs product, but here is a picture of a UFT-series boiler system with an indirect fired water heater (looks like one of the largest boilers in the series, but the topology would be the same for the smallest-in class):


UFT80_and_SSU30.jpg

The pump at the ceiling joists is running the heating system- any zoning that may or may not exist are not in the picture, but with a smart-pump like Viridian it's easy to run several zones with zone valves efficiently.

The pump near the slab is dedicated to the indirect water heater. Note that there is a separate plumbing port on the bottom of the boiler specifically designed for supporting an indirect water heater. While it's common to run indirect hot water using other modulating condensing boilers, most only have a single port, which adds to the plumbing & control complexity. Also note that it's just one pump on the heating side, no primary/secondary plumbing required, which also simplifies installation.

The UFT series has fewer bells & whistles in the controls than some boilers, but it's pretty cheap & rugged, easier to install than many comparable boilers and has a 10:1 turn down ratio, all of which makes it easy enough to like. But if there is no local or regional support for them in your area I would NOT recommend them. If the local supply house that recommends the Vmax 153P has good support for NTI, the Trinity TX51 or TX81 are plus an indirect water heater would be pretty good options for a 4 zone system and a 40,000BTU/hr design load. The min-fire output of the TX51 is about 6700 BTU/hr, which only needs ~30' of baseboard per zone to not cycle at all, the min-fire output of the TX81 is about 9800 BTU/hr, which would need about 50' per zone to not cycle at all, and it's still only 1/4 the design heat load, which means if you tweaked in the outdoor reset curve to near-perfection it would still be modulating well into the shoulder seasons.

Using a 4%/1000' derating factor the max input of 57,000 BTU/hr for the TX51 makes it a bit marginal for a 40,000 BTU/hr load, but the TX81 (like the UFT-080W) would still have plenty. Mind you, a 4% per 1000' capacity derating is an exaggeration for this type of boiler since it's not a fixed gas orifice running at a constant pressure- the controls have feedback that automatically adjusts it some even without specific designs features for altitude compensation, but consult with the manufacturer for altitude derating. Many/most just parrot the old-school theoretical measures as if it were a non-modulating burner with a fixed combustion air mixture, others actually test them, or have even designed-in altitude compensation into the controls. (Lochinvar's Crest series commercial boilers are completely self-compensating for altitude).

A more realistic generic derating for most modulating condensing boilers would be ~2% per 1000' give or take, but it varies. At a 2%/1000' derating you'd still have adequate margin for a ~40K load even with the TX51. Note the derating tables on page 6 of the installation manual- the derating numbers in Canada are different from the 4%/1000' they use for team USA. eg: at 4500' they derate by 10% in Canada, compared to 18% in the US, but it's the same boiler, same fuel, same air pressure. That's pretty typical. The only apparent differences are code requirements, not physics. A derating of 10% @ 4500' would be 2.2% per 1000'. Projecting that to 8300' would be about an 18% reduction in capacity, so the 52,000 BTU/hr DOE output would of the TX51 would still be north of 42,000 BTU/hr, which is still fine for a design heat load of 40,000 BTU/hr.

Many people would balk at cutting it that close if that's the real number, but since you have a wood stove for auxilliary heating on the super-cold nights it's not really worth upsizing for. A proper, more aggressive and accurate Manual-J load calcualtion would likely come in more than 10% lower than the Slantfin or Loadcalc tools, or other freebies. To get a good handle on it DO use those free tools to put some stakes in the ground- just know that those are on the high side of what more sophisticated tools & methods come up with. If a free load calculation tool comes up with a load of 45,000 BTU/hr, the likely reality is 40K, or less.

The degradation of lifecycle and efficiency short cycling has on the boiler isn't simple to quantify- a lot depends on just how much short cycling over how many hours per year. With sub-2-minute burns and 15+ burns per hour the impact is pretty heavy, taking something like 10% off the efficiency, erasing pretty much anything gained by the higher combustion efficiency. The necessary flue purges at every ignition cycle alone blows away a significant percentage of the total heat released during the burn.

The wear & tear on ignition components are high. The design presumption for most heating equipment would be on the order of 5 to at most 50 burn cycles per day. If it's doing 10 burns per hour all day and night that's 240 cycles per day. A weeks' worth of short cycling at 10 burns/hr is over 1500 burn cycles, which is more ignition cycles than a well designed system would run in a year. You'll get more than 15 years out of the ignition parts on a boiler in a well designed system, but probably not more 5 years in a short cycling system before parts need replacing.
 

Jadnashua

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The outside temperature has no real relationship with the need or desire to run antifreeze in a boiler system heating a dwelling. The only time you need antifreeze in the boiler circuit is if say the boiler itself was outside, or it was feeding a loop where it was expected to get below freezing. In a typical home, you don't ever expect the interior to get below freezing. Now, running say a snow-melt system, or maybe a pool heater, those would likely dictate running antifreeze, at least in those loops. I suppose it's possible if the place was a vacation spot, and not occupied, and you didn't want to drain it (and did drain all of the other water using devices and pipes), that might call for it.

A heating system, running at lower temperatures, longer times will be both more comfortable and efficient when it comes to hydronic. As a result, oversizing costs more up front to buy, but also forever in operating and comfort. Too small may mean you want 70-degrees, but it can only make it to 68...not catastrophic on that record breaking day, but then, it doesn't stay that cold forever, either. To carry that a little further, say you design it to be able to hold 70 at -10 outside (and it does, barely). Then, it gets to -11...the house doesn't magically become an icebox, it would then only get to 69 (depending on insulation and how long it stayed that temp). But, the sun comes up, and it recovers.

Almost every system has more capacity than needed. IF you have the ability to actually put it into the structure, running the water hotter can help recover quicker and hold at colder temperatures, but most places are also radiation limited, so having more capacity won't actually help. Don't be lulled into upsizing to heat your domestic hot water unless you say were running a spa that had major hot water needs all day and maybe the night. Most any boiler you will buy will have a larger burner than a typical WH, so can recover quickly, and switch back over to heating the dwelling (this assumes a priority zone to prioritize heating the water for your shower or bath over the house).
 

Bob1958

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Thanks again everyone.
Jadnashua I have had outside wall frozen pipe several times a year until I diverted the pipe to inside the closet and around to get to the pressure tank, but like you said that is well water not preheated water.

Dana thanks for all of your thoughtful responses, you took a lot of time to write them for me. I like the Idea of HTP 80 K BTU unit, they seem to be well priced, but I discovered horribly reviewed:

https://www.furnacecompare.com/boilers/heat-transfer-products/reviews/

What do you think of those reviews, I know there is a lot of negativity online these days. What do you'all think of Slant-fin boilers?
 

Dana

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Thanks again everyone.
Jadnashua I have had outside wall frozen pipe several times a year until I diverted the pipe to inside the closet and around to get to the pressure tank, but like you said that is well water not preheated water.

Dana thanks for all of your thoughtful responses, you took a lot of time to write them for me. I like the Idea of HTP 80 K BTU unit, they seem to be well priced, but I discovered horribly reviewed:

https://www.furnacecompare.com/boilers/heat-transfer-products/reviews/

What do you think of those reviews, I know there is a lot of negativity online these days. What do you'all think of Slant-fin boilers?

I don't think much about online reviews for most products, particularly when the reviewer doesn't understand the product very well. The consumer review page in the link isn't even specific to the UFT series- it's ALL HTP products, including water heaters, reviewed for the most part by people who couldn't tell a by-the-book boiler installation from a total hack. There were no reviews of UFT boilers on that site, plenty of moaning about water heaters, usually without specifying the model.

HTP has had some problematic boilers in the past but the UFT series isn't one of those. (Don't mention the HTP Munchkin in polite company, even though most of the problems would be rightly attributed to installer error, not a defective design.) Local support for HTP will vary, as will the competence of local installers. Installers comfortable with oversized old-school cast iron find all sorts of ways to screw up modulating condensing boiler installations. In many ways the fire tube boilers are more forgiving than water tube mod-con boilers, but they're not idiot proof. Even if they were nominally idiot proof it would inspire the most-creative idiots would come out of the woodwork- count on it!

Finding a competent installer is the most critical aspect with ANY modulating boiler. Even some of the least reliable boiler products out there are usually pretty good if installed by someone who knows the shortcomings of the product and how to not abuse it. The installers who can't do the 5th grade math on sizing the burner to the radiation for condensing burners probably aren't going to be your best bet for doing it by the book.

That said, the UFT series seems to be pretty tolerant of sloppy installations compared to many boilers, and they make it pretty easy to hook up the indirect, so it's hard to really hate them. HTP has been carrying them for at least 3-4 years now. If it were a real dog we would know about it by now.
 

Bob1958

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UH oh, this could be a deal breaker...the plumbing store guy just told me he's never heard of someone using PEX tubing for boiler system to bring hot water to the radiator, that I must use copper. True?
 

Dana

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UH oh, this could be a deal breaker...the plumbing store guy just told me he's never heard of someone using PEX tubing for boiler system to bring hot water to the radiator, that I must use copper. True?

Whether PEX can be used depends on the temperature at which it is operating. All oxygen-barrier PEX used in heating systems is rated for at least 180F operation, some go as high as 200F. So if the max temperature the boiler is capable of is below max operating spec for the PEX it's fine.

I don't know if you have a local code restriction barring the use of PEX with radiator & baseboard systems, but it's done all the time in my are (MA) even with cast iron boilers capable of 215F output (with high-limit of the boiler to something more appropriate for the tubing.)

The maximum output temperature setting of many condensing boilers is 180F, often lower.

Bottom line, don't take the word of a "...plumbing store guy..." as the last word on this. Find out whether it's barred by code.
 

Bob1958

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Thanks Dana, I called the county inspector and he too said it is done all the time. They recommended O2 barrier PEX too, but the std reed and blue stuff isn't against code.

I have the slant fin radiators, I have ordered the HTP UFT 80. Dana may i message. you to find out what else I need?
-Bob
 
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Dana

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Without oxygen barrier any non-stainless ferrous materials in contact with the system water (including any that might be inside the boiler) will corrode 10x faster than they would otherwise. If only stainless, bronze or plastic components are used in the heating system that is not an issue, but it's an important distinction. It's usually cheaper to use oxygen barrier PEX than it is to use all non-ferrous system components.

Feel free to message me, but I'm not necessarily your best resource on all of the minutae of the system.
 

NY_Rob

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Thanks Dana, I called the county inspector and he too said it is done all the time. They recommended O2 barrier PEX too, but the std reed and blue stuff isn't against code.
You'll do harm to the boiler and components if you use standard PEX which will let oxygen into your system... you need to use Oxygen Barrier PEX for closed loop heating systems.
FWIW- there is Class A and Class B versions of regular and OB PEX. Google the difference...

Glad you went with the UFT-80W... commissioned mine two years ago this week as a matter of fact :D

Many people prefer to use 1-1.25" copper and/or black iron pipe for the "near boiler" piping then transition to oxygen barrier PEX after the zone valves or circulators where the water is slightly cooler. This gives strength and stability needed for mounting the pumps, valves, air separator, expansion tank, etc... and inexpensive, easy to work with piping after the zone valves.
 
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