Clack WS EA help with settings

Users who are viewing this thread

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
I had a softener installed just over a week ago and the installer left all the settings as default except for the hardness and setting the clock. Are these settings correct or can it be adjusted to be more efficient? I don't want to go to the extreme where I am sacrificing softness for salt, if that makes sense.

I am on city water and here is the water report from my municipality:
Hardness: 8 gpg
Iron: <0.1 ppm

The installer said he tested the hardness and it's around 9-10 gpg.

People: 2
Water usage: ~150 gallons per day

System:
1.5 cu.ft. catalytic carbon 9"x48" tank (free flow)
1 cu.ft. 32,000 grain 9"x48" (Clack WS EA valve)
Main water line 3/4"

Current system settings:
Hardness: 15 gpg
Regen time: Volume based
Capacity: 25,500 grains
Salt Dose: 8lbs

Refill brine setting: PoST
First wash cycle: 8 min
Second wash cycle: 60 min
Third wash cycle: 8 min
Fourth wash cycle: 8 min

Thanks in advance and if I am missing anything please let me know.
 

Bannerman

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,858
Reaction score
795
Points
113
Location
Ontario, Canada
A municipality will typically state only an average hardness level from all water sources combined. Hardness should always be determined where the softener is to be located, and it is advisable to program an additional 2-3 gpg higher than the tested result to anticipate occasions when hardness may be higher due to time of day consumption variance or distribution system maintenance. If the actual test at your location identified 10 gpg, then you could program 12 or 13 gpg into the softener.

The appropriate capacity setting when using 8 lbs salt is 24,000 grains for a softener containing 1 ft3 of standard resin. See the 1 ft3 line in the attached chart: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/resin-chart-jpg.53316/

The salt efficiency and hardness leakage factor for each salt setting is indicated at the bottom of each salt setting column. As 8 lbs/ft3 will provide a good balance of efficiency, capacity and water quality, it is the most common recommendation for a residential softener.

A 9" X 48" tank is normally appropriate for 1 ft3 of media. Since your carbon filter does not backwash, it appears the seller stuffed 1.5 ft3 of carbon + gravel underbed into the tank, thereby filling the entire 1.6 ft3 tank volume to capacity.

Please review the attached info page which compares the performance of an upflow vs downflow carbon tanks when containing the usual recommended quantity of media. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/32

As carbon will initially contain numerous broken carbon granules and small particles (fines), the media should be sufficiently backwashed prior to use. Since your unit does not backwash, a garden hose would need to be fitted to the In/Out head on the tank. The following info page details the start-up procedures for both a carbon filter and softener. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/36
 

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
A municipality will typically state only an average hardness level from all water sources combined. Hardness should always be determined where the softener is to be located, and it is advisable to program an additional 2-3 gpg higher than the tested result to anticipate occasions when hardness may be higher due to time of day consumption variance or distribution system maintenance. If the actual test at your location identified 10 gpg, then you could program 12 or 13 gpg into the softener.

The appropriate capacity setting when using 8 lbs salt is 24,000 grains for a softener containing 1 ft3 of standard resin. See the 1 ft3 line in the attached chart: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/resin-chart-jpg.53316/

The salt efficiency and hardness leakage factor for each salt setting is indicated at the bottom of each salt setting column. As 8 lbs/ft3 will provide a good balance of efficiency, capacity and water quality, it is the most common recommendation for a residential softener.

A 9" X 48" tank is normally appropriate for 1 ft3 of media. Since your carbon filter does not backwash, it appears the seller stuffed 1.5 ft3 of carbon + gravel underbed into the tank, thereby filling the entire 1.6 ft3 tank volume to capacity.

Please review the attached info page which compares the performance of an upflow vs downflow carbon tanks when containing the usual recommended quantity of media. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/32

As carbon will initially contain numerous broken carbon granules and small particles (fines), the media should be sufficiently backwashed prior to use. Since your unit does not backwash, a garden hose would need to be fitted to the In/Out head on the tank. The following info page details the start-up procedures for both a carbon filter and softener. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/36

If I set it to 7 lbs salt for 24,000 grains (suggested by the store) do you see any issues?

This may be a dumb question but is there a way I can tell if my carbon tank is an upflow or downflow?

I am not sure how long the installer had the carbon soaking before installation if at all. I know once he installed it, he let the cold water run for about 10 mins until the water wasn't coming out black.

The carbon tank is connected with PEX piping so I don't see an easy way to connect a garden hose. I assume I would have to disconnect the PEX and connect a garden hose.

Also are the Regen settings/timings correct?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,943
Reaction score
4,452
Points
113
Location
IL
This may be a dumb question but is there a way I can tell if my carbon tank is an upflow or downflow?
Does it have an electric or mechanical valve on it? If so, it is almost certainly downflow. If it has no drain line for backwash, it will be upflow.

The carbon tank is connected with PEX piping so I don't see an easy way to connect a garden hose. I assume I would have to disconnect the PEX and connect a garden hose.
You could cut the PEX, and insert a tee to a new drain valve if that were warranted.
 

Bannerman

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,858
Reaction score
795
Points
113
Location
Ontario, Canada
If I set it to 7 lbs salt for 24,000 grains (suggested by the store) do you see any issues?
With 32,000 grains capacity per cubic foot, then 7 lbs salt will be insufficient to regenerate 24K grains (see chart).

is there a way I can tell if my carbon tank is an up-flow or downflow?
As it is not equipped with a backwashing valve, it will most likely utilize a simple In/Out head.

The direction of flow through the carbon bed will be governed by how the head is connected to the plumbing. Reversing the connections will result in the reversal of flow.

Up-flow is most common when not equipped with a backwashing valve.

I don't see an easy way to connect a garden hose.
Connecting a garden hose would be for the initial start-up flushing to eliminate fines. This would be performed while disconnected from the plumbing using an adaptor similar to the Purge Kit shown on the Up-flow/Down-flow info page. The adaptor could be alternated between the Inlet & Outlet connections to alternate between up-flow and downflow flushing.

he let the cold water run for about 10 mins until the water wasn't coming out black.
If the tank has been filled to capacity as I anticipate, the carbon will not have space to expand, fluidize or reclassify. Broken carbon pieces can then remain trapped within the carbon bed, but may continue to loosen and break free over time.

When configured as up-flow, broken carbon granules and fines will flow into the home's plumbing and will usually accumulate and eventually block faucet aerators and appliance screens. As I anticipate your carbon tank is located before the softener, then any carbon escaping will flow to the softener. Since your 9" softener's backwash flow rate will usually be 2 gpm, any carbon debris that enters may or may not be successfully eliminated as the usual backwash rate needed for a 9" diameter carbon tank is between 3.5-5.3 gpm.
 
Last edited:

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,091
Reaction score
456
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
Carbon tanks without a backwash head are usually 50/50 up or downflow. Downflow is usually preferred but installation is slightly more difficult as you have to cross the pipes if it is a Clack In/Out 1400 head, the most common good quality unit. If it is some cheap in/out head, then who knows... post some pictures for us so we can give you a better answer.


Hardness: 15 gpg
Regen time: Volume based
Capacity: 24000 grains
Salt Dose: 8lbs

Refill brine setting: PoST
First wash cycle: 8 min
Second wash cycle: 60 min
Third wash cycle: 3 min
Fourth wash cycle: 4 min
 

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
Today (Friday) will make it 11 days since the softener was installed. I have not added salt to the brine tank yet because the installer said I did not need to right away. He said add a bag before it hits 300 gallons or so remaining.

My plan was to add a bag (18kg) today. Last night it was reading 602 gallons left, so I thought there was still lots left before a regen happens.

When I went to add salt for the first time today I noticed the display was now showing 2041 gallons remaining. Confused, I went through the manual to view the settings and the softener regenerated today, Friday morning at 2am.
Before going to bed it still had 602 gallons left, why would it regenerate?

In the Diagnostics screen it shows Regen since startup: 2. But in the days since startup (10) it only shows regen on the 10th day. I am confused by these readings.

Seeing that there was no salt in the brine tank and it regenerated what should I do now?

Since adding a bag of salt (18kg), the water is about 3-4 inches above the salt.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,943
Reaction score
4,452
Points
113
Location
IL
Seeing that there was no salt in the brine tank and it regenerated what should I do now?

Since adding a bag of salt (18kg), the water is about 3-4 inches above the salt.
You should always have some salt above the water, even if you have to tilt the salt pour. After you feel confident it works, add several more bags, and check once in a while.
 

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
Today (Friday) will make it 11 days since the softener was installed. I have not added salt to the brine tank yet because the installer said I did not need to right away. He said add a bag before it hits 300 gallons or so remaining.

My plan was to add a bag (18kg) today. Last night it was reading 602 gallons left, so I thought there was still lots left before a regen happens.

When I went to add salt for the first time today I noticed the display was now showing 2041 gallons remaining. Confused, I went through the manual to view the settings and the softener regenerated today, Friday morning at 2am.
Before going to bed it still had 602 gallons left, why would it regenerate?

In the Diagnostics screen it shows Regen since startup: 2. But in the days since startup (10) it only shows regen on the 10th day. I am confused by these readings.

Seeing that there was no salt in the brine tank and it regenerated what should I do now?

Since adding a bag of salt (18kg), the water is about 3-4 inches above the salt.

Anyone have any advice?
 

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
Here is a picture of the valve on my carbon tank as requested. Based on the replies here it looks like an upflow, but I'll let the experts chime in.

carbon-tank-valve.jpg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,943
Reaction score
4,452
Points
113
Location
IL
It looks like the ports are labeled UPFLOW INLET an DOWNFLOW INLET.
 

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thanks, so is it safe to say this is an upflow carbon tank? If additional pictures are needed please let me know.
 

Bannerman

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,858
Reaction score
795
Points
113
Location
Ontario, Canada
You need to determine which of those two connections the water is entering. We don't know your home's plumbing configuration to say. The flow could be opposite to the arrow handles on the bypass.
 

sm30

Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Ontario, Canada
It looks like the ports are labeled UPFLOW INLET an DOWNFLOW INLET.

You need to determine which of those two connections the water is entering. We don't know your home's plumbing configuration to say. The flow could be opposite to the arrow handles on the bypass.

My bad, The water is entering through the upflow inlet (top in picture) and exiting through the downflow inlet (bottom in picture).
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,943
Reaction score
4,452
Points
113
Location
IL
Upflow it is then. Not a great design but "adequate".
Should people with such systems consider a valve to manually dump a particular flow rate to fluff up the media periodically? This should do the same as a backwash.
 

Bannerman

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,858
Reaction score
795
Points
113
Location
Ontario, Canada
The OP states that the carbon tank contains 1.5 ft3 of media although it is only a 9" X 48" tank.

As that size tank has 1.6 ft3 capacity, I anticipate the tank is completely filled considering the additional gravel under bed needed. As such, there will be no space remaining to expand or fluidize the carbon.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks