diecastdawg
New Member
Hopefully I can explain this sufficiently because I cannot take picture of this.
We are remodelling a kitchen. New cabinets are now in place before I realized what a Studor vent was. The "old" kitchen had a Studor vent (and we have never had any problems with it in the three years we have been there). The Studor Vent was put in prior to our living there. I would prefer venting outside through the roof since it seems safer although I know AAV's are supposed to be safe too.
The Studor Vent (AAV) was put on top of a "new" 2" PVC drain line that ties into the old cast iron drain line under the house (it basically intersects the cast iron and is tied into the cast iron line on both sides (essentially a "bypass" of what was apparently the clogged portion of the drain line). The upper part of the cast iron drain line is now unused and the lower part continues to drain as it always has. So the both the PVC portion and the cast iron portion of the drain lines are completely enclosed although the part of the cast iron line that was bypassed is unused now.
Since I have already put the cabinets and countertops in, it would be difficult to get into the wall and try to tie into the old vent pipe behind the wall without destroying the back of the cabinets.
The "old" system vented through the roof as most older house did. I would like to tie the "new" 2" PVC drain line into the "old" galvanized 1 1/2" stub that is sticking out of the wall under the sink (it is currently capped off). My desire to tie it in would be for venting purposes only because the water will go down the new PVC as it always has and the water should never enter the portion that I tie into the old stub.
Is there any downside to tying into the old portion of the plumbing for venting purposes only? Currently, there is nothing else tied into this old vent. I don't know why the plumber who put the PVC "bypass" in did not do that, so that's making me wonder if it should not be done for some reason. The old drain stub if approx. four or five inches to the right of where the new 2" PVC drain line goes down into the floor. But I can get to 1 1/2" 90's to turn close enougg to tie into the old stub.
Hopefully this question makes sense. Thanks for your help. This looks like a good forum.
We are remodelling a kitchen. New cabinets are now in place before I realized what a Studor vent was. The "old" kitchen had a Studor vent (and we have never had any problems with it in the three years we have been there). The Studor Vent was put in prior to our living there. I would prefer venting outside through the roof since it seems safer although I know AAV's are supposed to be safe too.
The Studor Vent (AAV) was put on top of a "new" 2" PVC drain line that ties into the old cast iron drain line under the house (it basically intersects the cast iron and is tied into the cast iron line on both sides (essentially a "bypass" of what was apparently the clogged portion of the drain line). The upper part of the cast iron drain line is now unused and the lower part continues to drain as it always has. So the both the PVC portion and the cast iron portion of the drain lines are completely enclosed although the part of the cast iron line that was bypassed is unused now.
Since I have already put the cabinets and countertops in, it would be difficult to get into the wall and try to tie into the old vent pipe behind the wall without destroying the back of the cabinets.
The "old" system vented through the roof as most older house did. I would like to tie the "new" 2" PVC drain line into the "old" galvanized 1 1/2" stub that is sticking out of the wall under the sink (it is currently capped off). My desire to tie it in would be for venting purposes only because the water will go down the new PVC as it always has and the water should never enter the portion that I tie into the old stub.
Is there any downside to tying into the old portion of the plumbing for venting purposes only? Currently, there is nothing else tied into this old vent. I don't know why the plumber who put the PVC "bypass" in did not do that, so that's making me wonder if it should not be done for some reason. The old drain stub if approx. four or five inches to the right of where the new 2" PVC drain line goes down into the floor. But I can get to 1 1/2" 90's to turn close enougg to tie into the old stub.
Hopefully this question makes sense. Thanks for your help. This looks like a good forum.
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