I'm assuming that
this is the boiler series in quesion?
If yes, running it with the RETURN water under 130F would probably destroy it over time let alone outlet temp of 130F. If it's been truly been running output temps that low and taking 110F water in, you will likely be in for a boiler-replacement in short years. At sea level with typical combusion-air mixtures on cast iron boilers the dew point of the exhaust is in the low-mid 120s F, so with return water near or below that dew point part of the heat exchanger plates will condense slightly acidic water onto the plate causing corrosion. The longer this goes on, the higher the corrosion level. (I'm surprised it's still working if that's the way it's been running since 1991.)
If the aquastat relay normally runs the circulator pump constantly whenever there's a call for heat it could cause symptoms such as this in a high mass system. I believe L8148e is a high-limit-only device, that doesn't inhibit circulation while the boiler is heating up. The controls could be re-configured to inhibit the pump by running controlling the pump with a separate aquastat set to turn it on when the boiler reaches 150-160F or somthing, but the near-boiler pluming has to be configured to protect the boiler from thermal shock- 160F out is great, but not when you have 70F water enteriing the boiler- the thermal stress of such a large delta-T will destroy the boiler faster than condensation will. But even reconfiguring to allow the boiler to run at a temp & delta-T within spec for the boiler that won't fix your balance issues. Slowing the pump down for a higher boiler temp would create similar delta-T stresses on the boiler- don't go there without re-plumbing the boiler with a boiler-bypass or some other measure to mix return water with boiler output where it enters the boiler to keep the delta-T bounded (30F differences are generally OK, 50F almost never for cast-iron boilers.)
This really calls for a professional on-site assessment, not a web-forum fix. I suspect the sizing is OK (but it might not be)- it's NORMAL for a right-sized boiler to run a greater than 50% duty cycle mid-winter. But a 20 year old boiler that may have been suffering condensation damage for years may not be worth saving at this point. The fact that it can usually heat the place with 130F water means you have sufficient radiator to take GREAT advantage of a high-efficiency modulating/condensing boiler if the system designer/installer is any good. Breaking into zones by floor (including the basement baseboards) would also go a long way to resolving balance issues within zones. You haven't reported your fuel use numbers yet, but DO (along with your zip code so we can correlated it to degree-day data.) Using an existing boiler to measure the heat load on a place is usually more accurate than any of the standard estimation methods using insulation levels & window area, etc., which will determine how much boiler you need when this one fails.
Before pouring ANY money into reconfiguring the system, have a competent boiler-tech inspect the fire-side of the heat exchanger plates. If the corrosion is slight, it can probably just be cleaned up, and with some system tweaks it could go for another couple of decades. But if what I suspect has been going on proves to be the case, it's a basket case, and might not last the heating season. If it's bad news you REALLY need to find that out closer to September 15th than January 15th when corrosion from condensation finally burns through the heat exchanger, and all of the heating system water drains out onto the basement floor.
If you end up replacing the boiler with a high efficiency version odds are pretty good you'll cut annual fuel costs by at least 1/3 (maybe more, if the existing beast has been fighing an uphill battle trying to get the heat through a half-inch of rust on the fire-side of the heat exchangers.) If there's any money in the budget, have them quote an indirect-fired tank for the domestic hot water as well. Try to suss out the heating contractors in your area BEFORE soliciting quotes- there are a lot of heating & plumbing contractors competent to do boiler swaps, but may not be all that great on the system-design end. If might be worth paying a designer to spec the system alterations, and get quotes based on the spec.
Trying to balance a basement & attic zone to a first-floor thermostat control is an exercise in futility- it probably needs to be broken up into zones by floor to have any hope of consistent comfort. A simple boiler swap probably isn't going to do it.