Yeah.. But mine will be a 10,000 sq' canopy roof.
9000 btu is to much cooling and I don't want a smart stat thinking it knows better than me. I think I will try the window shaker hack for my super efficient studio. Where you duct it in to isolate it on the ground..
There are a few ducted mini-splits that might fill the bill. Fujitsu's
AOU/ARU36RGLX is good for about 30K BTU/hr at Iowa City's 99% outside design temp of -6F, and about 33K at +5F, yet throttles back to 9600 BTU/hr. If it's a big open space and you're looking for a high wall unit there are
options with similar or better performance from several manufacturers.
If it's a 700' "...super efficient studio..." or even a 1000', house the design heat load probably won't be anywhere near 30,000 BTUhr @ -6F. Both LoadCalc and CoolCalc will usually overshoot reality with margin, sometimes by quite a bit in the hands of a newbie. I'm not sure how a 700' studio can have a 10,000' roof though- is that a typo, and really a 1000' roof?
If it's a budget problem, IIRC Senville, Pioneer, Mr.Cool, and now most Gree labeled units (as well as all of Carrier's mini-split selection) are re-labeled Midea units using Toshiba compressor technology. Midea is a first-tier Chinese heat pump & AC manufacture that seems dedicated to vacuuming up the competition, letting the competitors handle the distribution & marketing, and has over the past decade become the world's largest manufacturer of AC equipment.
Almost all mini-splits have a "DRY" or "DEHUMIDIFY" mode to improve the SHR (sensible heat ratio) for handling latent loads. Even if significantly oversized they do an OK job of handling humidity, but right-sizing it is still better for both comfort and efficiency. The humidity problems tend to crop up with for the sensible load and running it it's highest SEER normal cooling mode. Using setbacks and oversizing does not improve latent load handling.