Air in lines

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Leaky Boot

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Installed a new system couple months ago. 550 ft well with 1 hp pump at 260 ft with 150 static. 30 GPM well. Owner called saying he has air in lines. Pitless adapter with tank under house and well about 100 ft out in yard. There is one check valve one ft below the pitless inside the 6 inch steel casing. So everything is under pressure from that valve forward to the 20 gallon Well X Trol under the house. I am going to pull up the pump a joint next week and hope to find no water standing or slowly falling in the sch 80 PVC drop pipe. If so, problem solved. Just start removing the 20 ft joints until a loose coupler or crack is found. But-----what if the pipe is totally full and no water dropping?? Is there ANY way for air to get in system besides a leak, or actually it takes 2 leaks, in the pipe below the CK valve?
 

Reach4

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Air can enter via a softener, or some iron treatment systems, after the pressure tank.

If you removed the top check valve, that could fix it if the pipe leak is small. If the leak is not small, ...
 

Leaky Boot

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Air can enter via a softener, or some iron treatment systems, after the pressure tank.

If you removed the top check valve, that could fix it if the pipe leak is small. If the leak is not small, ...
We will see when I open up the drop pipe.
House is under construction and owners living in a travel trailer in drive so don't think they have a softner yet. Will see next week. Thanks for the comment.
 

Boycedrilling

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It is most likely a leak below your check valve below the pitless adapter. It’s 150 ft to water. If the leak is below that, the entire 150 ft could end up filling with air.

Replaced a 2hp pump set 315 ft on galvanized earlier this week. The pump had quit 2 weeks earlier. So they replaced the pressure switch and control box. That bought them a week. Pump went out again on a Saturday. They called another pump company. After waiting 4 days, they called me at 4 pm. Now this well serves three residences and a cattle feedlot with a couple hundred head in it. They were hauling water at this point. Went out and diagnosed the problem The motor had failed. Megger tested bad. No well log. Had a check valve at the surface. Started pulling pipe at 7:30 the next morning. First 80 feet were empty. Static was 30 ft. Had a pinhole leak 10 ft above the first check valve at 105 ft. Dry pipe again. Another pinhole leak down another 80 ft. Replaced pump & motor, drop pipe and wire. Raised casing to above ground level from the 5 foot deep pit it was in, inside a pump house. Replaced plumbing between well head and pressure tank, eliminating check valve. Pressure tested. Held pressure with no change for 1/2 hr. Only check valve now is the one just above The pump. I always add a redundant check valve on a 6” long stainless steel nipple just above the pump. The failed pump was only 6 years old. The previous installer had not replaced the drop pipe or wire. I did not replace the pressure tank. It was a Flexcon FL28 that was 6 years old also. Still at the correct pressure.

so yes, the most likely scenario is a leak in the drop pipe below the top side check valve. Could be any where between the pitless adapter and the pump.

Another possibility, though not very common is entrained gas in the water. I run into this occasionally. There can be a gas entrained into the water. It separates out while setting in the pressure tank. That’s a whole different situation solving that problem, but can be done.
 

Leaky Boot

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It is most likely a leak below your check valve below the pitless adapter. It’s 150 ft to water. If the leak is below that, the entire 150 ft could end up filling with air.

Replaced a 2hp pump set 315 ft on galvanized earlier this week. The pump had quit 2 weeks earlier. So they replaced the pressure switch and control box. That bought them a week. Pump went out again on a Saturday. They called another pump company. After waiting 4 days, they called me at 4 pm. Now this well serves three residences and a cattle feedlot with a couple hundred head in it. They were hauling water at this point. Went out and diagnosed the problem The motor had failed. Megger tested bad. No well log. Had a check valve at the surface. Started pulling pipe at 7:30 the next morning. First 80 feet were empty. Static was 30 ft. Had a pinhole leak 10 ft above the first check valve at 105 ft. Dry pipe again. Another pinhole leak down another 80 ft. Replaced pump & motor, drop pipe and wire. Raised casing to above ground level from the 5 foot deep pit it was in, inside a pump house. Replaced plumbing between well head and pressure tank, eliminating check valve. Pressure tested. Held pressure with no change for 1/2 hr. Only check valve now is the one just above The pump. I always add a redundant check valve on a 6” long stainless steel nipple just above the pump. The failed pump was only 6 years old. The previous installer had not replaced the drop pipe or wire. I did not replace the pressure tank. It was a Flexcon FL28 that was 6 years old also. Still at the correct pressure.

so yes, the most likely scenario is a leak in the drop pipe below the top side check valve. Could be any where between the pitless adapter and the pump.


Thanks for the comments. I plan on investigating tomorrow.
Another possibility, though not very common is entrained gas in the water. I run into this occasionally. There can be a gas entrained into the water. It separates out while setting in the pressure tank. That’s a whole different situation solving that problem, but can be done.
 

Valveman

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Having a check valve a few inches up from the one built into the pump is fine. But an extra check valve anywhere up higher in the pump system can cause tremendous water hammer. The water from the pump crashes into the second check valve at pump start and the resulting pressure can be more than the pipe and fittings can take.

The lower check is leaking or there is a hole in the pipe. Then it doesn't take a very loose coupling to let in a little air under the upper check. The air is a pain in the butt at the faucet, but is actually giving a little cushion before the water hits that upper check valve.

Just removing the upper check may fix the problem. The lower check will work better with the extra pressure, and the air leak is probably so small it won't leak water under pressure. But if the system loses pressure when no water is being used the pump will probably have to come out to find the problem.
 
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