That is the standpipe that is vertical on the right, and the curved part at the bottom is the p-trap.
The air gap would go into the top of the standpipe.
Air Gap recommendation for softener
- Thread starter Brecchi
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The air gap would go into the top of the standpipe.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
easiest way just run softener drain over to the wash mach and go down standpipe try plumb pak pp855-69 for an idea what to get this should work other brands are around too. Or a second way, as mentioned several times the 2 inch horizontal line something like John suggested. I would say I cant imagine the 1 1/2" vent going up behind water heater is not a vent? but actually I could imagine some body could have tied on to that 2 inch horizontal with a santee on its back instead of a combi. I doubt it but Id prefer verifying as well
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The only existing standpipe is on the floor above. But still, that may work fine assuming the pressure is sufficient. Going up a story only drops about 5 psi due to altitude change.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
no mention of there not being a standpipe in basement ? only that he moved machines upstairs. gotta do a lotta guessing he said there is a bathroom on other side of wall but didnt say which wall guessing its the other side of that ( possibly non functional) laundry room in basement.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
Surely if there are wash machine hookups in the basement, there would be a standpipe drain also. Instead of hacking up and installing that proposed drain, just run it over to the existing standpipe.
You don't suppose?!
Oh, man.
See if there is a removable cap for a standpipe.
If yes, https://www.homedepot.com/p/KEENEY-2-in-Plastic-Water-Softener-Air-Gap-PP855-69/204374532 would be a suitable air gap.
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Brecchi
Member
Thought so, thanks John.
Hey Jeff, regarding the washing machine hookup, I believe this is where the original setup was. The basement was turned into an in-law suite in the last few years with the bathroom sharing the left wall of the utility room, where the washing machine hookups are. The hookups and 240v socket do have a newish look to them, but the entire wall is new drywall which leads me to believe that a lot of the infrastructure in the pics is new/upgraded. So in short, I think there was a washer and dryer here in the past, but these hookups look to be unused.
I think the owners from years back then added another washer/dryer hookup above on the 1st floor to have 2 separate functioning units in the same house.
Oh wow - Yes! There is a cap. It looks like its not a pop-off, the hot and cold fittings look to be set into drilled holes through the cap. I'll attach a pic.
I'm assuming there is an actual drain behind there and not empty space, even though this hookup may not have been used before. Any chance anyone could diagram how the water softener would connect to that air gap coming off the washer hookup?
Attachments
Don't assume. Can you turn that cap CCW (counterclockwise) and see if you can lift that? I don't know your machine box.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
yep brand new never used. I cant keep guessing cut a hole in the dry wall and see whats goiing on? and then screw the patch back in easy as Pie. Why any one would replace drywall and leave an abandoned wash mach box is beyond my thoughts but hey its possible too
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
It looks to be intended to be cut out.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I wonder if it is currently providing an airtight seal since the trap most likely does not have any water in it to keep sewer gasses out? If you cut it out to confirm there is a standpipe, you will need to pour in water to fill the trap.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
The boxes are typicaly air and water tight as they are made to hold a plumbing test . I can see from here it looks intact . I wouldnt worry about that.
I already provided a part number of a air gap . it requires no tools to install bust out the test plug on your W/M box and drop it in ( dont let the knock out go down the standpipe) . if you decide to run to that area for drainage. You might try going to home depot and looking at the box thats not installed should be able to ask guy there about how to knock the plug out they dont screw in. Ive done this awhile and understand most people havent its pretty easy though might be on you tube too
I already provided a part number of a air gap . it requires no tools to install bust out the test plug on your W/M box and drop it in ( dont let the knock out go down the standpipe) . if you decide to run to that area for drainage. You might try going to home depot and looking at the box thats not installed should be able to ask guy there about how to knock the plug out they dont screw in. Ive done this awhile and understand most people havent its pretty easy though might be on you tube too
John Gayewski
In the Trades
Some of them screw in. Like a quarter turn a couple tabs fit into grooves and there's a rubber gasket.
Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
You are making this into a project for no reason...
Sooo Why dont you just cut the vertical standpipe behind the water heater and install a 1 1/2 tee and then just make up a deeper trap?? Jut Use some normal elbows to make the trap 3 x deeper so it will be impossible to ever siphon and make up a stand pipe to drop your hose into.... It will work fine.... this is exactly what I would do and I have done many times before .... good luck
Sooo Why dont you just cut the vertical standpipe behind the water heater and install a 1 1/2 tee and then just make up a deeper trap?? Jut Use some normal elbows to make the trap 3 x deeper so it will be impossible to ever siphon and make up a stand pipe to drop your hose into.... It will work fine.... this is exactly what I would do and I have done many times before .... good luck
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Agree Mark its driving me crazy such a simple job! But Im looking at a brand new W/M box that Id like to use.
Im thinking the 1 1/2" is a vent and didnt see a "stand pipe behind heater" but a vent? no big deal wet venting it either as I see it but Id sure gettr done , hopefully after all of this Brecchi does the job and dosent hire it out as a lotta time wasted here. so darn simple ! my saying I learned from the greenest apprentice ever "aint nothing to it but to do it"
Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
The line behind the heater I say you should be cutting into appears to be a vent anyway,,, so its basically gonna be some kind of wet vent deal anyway which is no big deal.....
if you are really worried about a vent then just throw in the tee.... then install another tee for an auto air vent in the arm to the trap then just install a deep trap and you are good to go..
it will work, its got to work, it must work., its gonna work.---it cant not work...
Brecchi
Member
Hey Guys,
The test cap o the W/M box says "Cut out with a knife" on the top. Looking at the way the hot and cold water taps are set in, I'm sure its not a screw type cap.
I'd love to be able to keep this simple, but I just don't have the vocabulary to keep up. I don't find it to be time wasted for myself, I'm trying to learn as much as possible. Apologies if it feels that way to others.
Jeff, I plan to purchase the air gap you sent. I'm not sure if it will be used at the W/M box, or behind the water heater like Mark suggested. I'm not sure where each pipe goes or how a lot of my system works, hence all the questions. Short of someone walking me through every single part, I'll likely have to hope the plumber can immediately see the best way to do this. The idea was for me to figure out all the necessary parts ready for him to do an immediate install of the air gap along with the softener.
In any case, I appreciate all the help on here.
The test cap o the W/M box says "Cut out with a knife" on the top. Looking at the way the hot and cold water taps are set in, I'm sure its not a screw type cap.
I'd love to be able to keep this simple, but I just don't have the vocabulary to keep up. I don't find it to be time wasted for myself, I'm trying to learn as much as possible. Apologies if it feels that way to others.
Jeff, I plan to purchase the air gap you sent. I'm not sure if it will be used at the W/M box, or behind the water heater like Mark suggested. I'm not sure where each pipe goes or how a lot of my system works, hence all the questions. Short of someone walking me through every single part, I'll likely have to hope the plumber can immediately see the best way to do this. The idea was for me to figure out all the necessary parts ready for him to do an immediate install of the air gap along with the softener.
In any case, I appreciate all the help on here.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Sure Mark , I like that way too I don't see one being better just whichever the guy wants too or finds easier.
I suggest you stop concentrating on air gap and instead think of where the output of the air gap will go. You should ask you softener provider for a reference for a plumber.
I might run the pipe to the upstairs laundry standpipe. If you can get that pipe installed, we could talk about a suitable airgap.
Regarding potentially running water through the wall, to the lavatory, I am not going to try to design that project and produce a bill of materials for you. You have not shown any indication that you are going to be able to do this yourself. Pointing to a branch tailpiece would only lead to more and more.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
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