Air gap overflow

[mrwisher73]

I know this is an old post but it still applies to me and I'm sure there are others out there like myself since it seems the air gap problem is fairly common for those forced to use them by there code requirements. I live in NV and it is my understanding that I must have one to pass code, so I'm trying my best to make my air gap work. I've see many forums of guys arguing between air gaps and the air loop...please save it; I got it -- air loop is better, but code is code and I'm going to follow the code so I can sell my house some day without code problems. I'm having the identical problem Mark describes.

I recently replaced my double-basin sink in my house with a new single basin granite composite sink. In the process, I bought a new air gap, a new air gap disposal pipe (7/8" pipe running from air gap to disposal), a new faucet, and new plumbing to adjust the connection from the disposal to the p-trap drain. I've done a lot of searching around on the internet and read lots of forums on possible solutions, and nothing has worked. Here are the facts:
1) My garbage disposal is 3 mo. old -- yes, the plug has been removed to allow drainage from the air gap into the disposal
2) The p-trap is clear, I've run and cleaned the garbage disposal
3) The 7/8" pipe from air gap to disposal has a smooth downward slope from the air trap to the disposal; no kinks, new pipe, no blockage
4) The air trap is brand new, purchased from Lowes for $16 (I don't remember the brand)
5) I've double-checked the clip top of the air gap (inside the chrome cover), and it is rectangular, has clips, and can only be clipped in one way.
6) When the DW is draining, I get good water flow into the disposal (visually confirmed...it's about the rate of a garden hose). However, I'm still getting a lot of water drainage out of the air gap, which spills into my sink and onto my granite counter-top.
7) The DW drain pipe connects to the small diameter connection on the air gap. The disposal line connects to the other large diameter connection of the air gap
8) I have a GE Potsscrubber DW that is likely the same age as the house (10 years)
9) I adjusted the screw clamp on the disposal pipe/air gap connection in case I had it too tight, possibly pinching the pipe, restricting the flow.

I really feel that the DW is pumping water at too high of a PSI. I noticed that the old Air Gap was pretty gunky so I suspect the previous home owner had the same problem. However, my wife nor I noticed any recent overflow from the old air gap since we've owned the home for the last 90 days. Therefore, I suspect the old one was clogged up with the gunk and that "air clog" allowed the drainage into the disposal, but not the design intent of the air gap. Is there a way to dial down the PSI of the DW drainage?

Out of ideas and frustrated.

Mark

 

[Terry]

US Brass
It's the only brand of Air Gap I will install.
I wouldn't buy any air gap that Lowes has.

Also, make sure you don't have a Costco Titan disposer. The opening is too small for the dishwasher.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[fee]

Thank you!

That's exactly what my problem was. I replaced the disposer and neglected to knock out the plug. Kept getting an E:24 error. Called Bosch and they did their run around. You were the answer. Thank you!

Since this is all brand new, I will take a guess and say the installer probly forgot to knock the plug out of the side of the garbage disposal before connecting the hose to it. So there is some kind of clog, wether it be the airgap itself or between it and the connection to the garbage disposal.

The amount you turn on your water valve should have nothing to do with how fast it drains only how fast it fills up. There is a pump built into the dishwasher to discharge the dirty water.

EDIT: If the problem is that the plug from the disposal wasn't removed... just disconnect the hose (use something to catch the water) and insert a skinny flat screw driver into the barbed nipple and tap around the edges to break the plastic plug out. Be careful as not to get too rough and create drainage leaks. Oh,, unplug the electric to the disposal first, and when finished reach inside to remove the plastic plug or it could jam the disposal.

good luck

 

[DreamWeaver5]

I cannot remove the air gap cap no matter how hard I try. it is really stuck. any ideas?

 

[Larry Schwarcz]

US Brass
It's the only brand of Air Gap I will install.
I wouldn't buy any air gap that Lowes has.

Also, make sure you don't have a Costco Titan disposer. The opening is too small for the dishwasher.

A bit of an old thread but I have a related question.

Why do the garbage disposer discharge hoses (hose from the air gap to the disposer) always made with very thick walled material? The discharge hose from the dishwasher is made with much thinner materials and is much more flexible. It seems to me that if the hose from the air gap to the disposer was made from a thinner walled hose it would bend much easier without kinking causing draining issues.

Thanks!
Larry.

 

[Terry]

Why do the garbage disposer discharge hoses (hose from the air gap to the disposer) always made with very thick walled material? The discharge hose from the dishwasher is made with much thinner materials and is much more flexible. It seems to me that if the hose from the air gap to the disposer was made from a thinner walled hose it would bend much easier without kinking causing draining issues.

Thanks!
Larry.

The 7/8" hose from the air gap to the disposer is kind of funky, easy to kink if not routed well. I have at times added some copper fittings soldered up to deal with some of that.