I have a few questions about replacing my water service - am going to do it semi DIY - I have a licensed plumber friend who is helping, and I have replumbed the interior of my own house before, both supply and drain.
My low flow indicator in my meter is showing a leak somewhere underground between the meter and the house. I replaced the main shutoff in the house with a new globe valve just to verify that it wasn't somewhere in the house (I don't think it could be anyway). My calculations show it's about a 10% leak over normal (ie, if we use 5 CCF a month, it's adding about .5 CCF per month - I'm not sure how big that makes the leak, but probably pretty small. The line is the original 1952 3/4" galvanized, so it's sort of reasonable there might be a leak by now, I think.
The original (current) installation takes a 90 right off the meter and goes down 8 ft, where it enters the house. Code in my city/state is 2 ft. My plan is not to try to fix or find the leak but just dig a new 2 ft trench, and drop a 1" PEX line in, drill a new hole in the foundation at that depth and hook it into the existing 1" PEX trunk that is right there (inches from the service line entrance).
My questions:
1) My plumber friend strongly recommends using PEX-A with wirsbo connections for this, so that there is nothing that can corrode. I looked at their site for meter fittings (https://www.uponorpro.com/~/media/extranet/files/plumbing literature/propex water service fittings and valves sell sheet.ashx?version=060620180413) and all of them are larger than 3/4" on the meter side - what am I looking for to make that connection? I thought for sure there would be a 3/4" NPSM to 1" PEX but there isn't - I must be missing something.
2) To drill through the foundation wall I was going to use a hammer drill (from the inside) with a slightly oversized bit from the OD of the PEX. Is that the best way?
3) I've attached a couple pictures where it enters the house. To abandon the old line, what's a good way? I thought I could either just cap it with a galv cap (but then it's sticking out), cut it and rethread right next to the wall and cap it, or using a hammer, tap it back flush to the wall and then mortar over that.
Thank you for any words of advice.
My low flow indicator in my meter is showing a leak somewhere underground between the meter and the house. I replaced the main shutoff in the house with a new globe valve just to verify that it wasn't somewhere in the house (I don't think it could be anyway). My calculations show it's about a 10% leak over normal (ie, if we use 5 CCF a month, it's adding about .5 CCF per month - I'm not sure how big that makes the leak, but probably pretty small. The line is the original 1952 3/4" galvanized, so it's sort of reasonable there might be a leak by now, I think.
The original (current) installation takes a 90 right off the meter and goes down 8 ft, where it enters the house. Code in my city/state is 2 ft. My plan is not to try to fix or find the leak but just dig a new 2 ft trench, and drop a 1" PEX line in, drill a new hole in the foundation at that depth and hook it into the existing 1" PEX trunk that is right there (inches from the service line entrance).
My questions:
1) My plumber friend strongly recommends using PEX-A with wirsbo connections for this, so that there is nothing that can corrode. I looked at their site for meter fittings (https://www.uponorpro.com/~/media/extranet/files/plumbing literature/propex water service fittings and valves sell sheet.ashx?version=060620180413) and all of them are larger than 3/4" on the meter side - what am I looking for to make that connection? I thought for sure there would be a 3/4" NPSM to 1" PEX but there isn't - I must be missing something.
2) To drill through the foundation wall I was going to use a hammer drill (from the inside) with a slightly oversized bit from the OD of the PEX. Is that the best way?
3) I've attached a couple pictures where it enters the house. To abandon the old line, what's a good way? I thought I could either just cap it with a galv cap (but then it's sticking out), cut it and rethread right next to the wall and cap it, or using a hammer, tap it back flush to the wall and then mortar over that.
Thank you for any words of advice.
