ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Remove the meter cable sensor from the back of the valve and pass a magnet across that several times, the flow indicator should blink. If it does not blink, you may have a bad sensor cable or board.
Yes, I know, and she's a very good actress and ya know, it's like plumbers, those that cant, teach... or do code stuff.I beg to differ, the picture I posted is one of the food network stars
Remove the meter cable sensor from the back of the valve and pass a magnet across that several times, the flow indicator should blink. If it does not blink, you may have a bad sensor cable or board.
Yes, I know, and she's a very good actress and ya know, it's like plumbers, those that cant, teach... or do code stuff.
BTW, I think her eyes are too close together, or was that another one?
ok, i just tried to program it.
i pushed the up/down buttons. it displayed 15, push regen button. displayed 2:00, push regen button.
it does not display H20. it just skips to time. i tried it many times, same thing.
To get into master programming where you can tweak every setting, set the time to 12:01 P.M., then wait a 15 seconds. Then push the up and down arrow buttons at the same time for about 8 seconds. You are now in master programming mode.
If the magnet against the sensor does not work, then that would indicate a bad cable/sensor, or a bad board. Neither is common, but my money would be on the cable. I go through a few a year, but we are moving huge volumes so the numbers of cables that go bad is insignificant. The 5600SXT, 2510 SXT, etc all use the same cable sensor, just the lengths vary.
ok, i did just that. it displays 2 perameters, DO & RT. then it reverts bad to in service mode. magnet trick does nothing.
this thing is really pissing me off. it is now unplugged.
Some comapanies recommend double salting and double regenerating, but in all reality, add an extra gallon of water to the brine tank and manually start a regeneration and you will be fine. The reason for double/double on the regen makes sense on paper, but when all the variables, reserves, efficiency settings, buffers, etc.. are considered, it is rarely needed. It will also not hurt anything to do that, just usually not necessary.
Resin life... 1-30 years. Depends on too many factors including the water quality, water quantity, chlorine/chloramine levels, etc...
The most common sysmptom of bad resin is no water flow. This is caused by the resin breaking down in chlorinated supplies into a mush that water has difficulty passing through. The second most common problem is lowered capacity due to surface fouling. This is easily tested by checking the systems rated capacity vs actual capacity. When softeners are used for iron removal, this is a common proiblem and regular chemical stripping of the resin is recommended to minimize this.
Hope this helps.
This is awkward, but...
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