View Full Version : Broken offset toilet flange - why is everything 10 times harder than it should be?
01-08-2012, 02:20 PM
So our bathroom had mold behind the toilet, so I dove right in and removed the toilet and replaced the drywall. I'm starting to think about the hard part... getting the toilet back in. Of course nothing is ever as simple as it should be and I'm starting to get over my head. The offset cast iron flange has one broken side (as you can see in the picture), another flange that is suppose to be screwed into the floor (but wasn't) was on top of that when I pulled the toilet out, this was cracked too. The middle of the drain is at 10 1/2"... so I'm not exactly sure how everything is going to be centered. Please, plumbing Gods, tell me what I need to do!
01-08-2012, 02:22 PM
To start with, the new drywall you installed, should not be touching the tile.
01-08-2012, 03:00 PM
Offset flanges are not very popular among plumbers. Unfortunately, they are sometimes needed when floor joists dictate less than the preferred 12" rough-in. At this point,it would appear there a no practical choices to a new offset flange. I would suggest a plumber be hired to do the job because he will have the tools and experience to remove the old and replace with a new one. As far as the drywall touching the tile, this can easily be fixed by just cutting 1/4" or so off of the bottom. It will be covered with molding, so it doesn't have to be a perfect cut. You just don't want water from a spill, mopping, or a leak to get into the drywall.
01-08-2012, 03:46 PM
The do make repair rings for your situation. It does need to be bolted to the floor and sealed to what you have. Can't tell whether that's a concrete slab or a subfloor. Either way, you'd need to drill some holes to anchor it.
The alternative is to remove the old flange and install a new one. Not sure you'll find an exact replacement and a plumber is likely required that still can do a lead poured joint. They do sell lead wool that you might attempt on your own. If there's access from underneath where you could cut out the old and install new, there are other options.
The proper place for the flange is on TOP of the FINISHED floor. While there are lots of installs where it isn't there, that is how it is designed to work which also supports the flange properly.
01-08-2012, 10:03 PM
Thanks guys! I will fix the drywall and make sure there is a gap at the bottom.
The house is on a slab so no access from underneath. jadnashua you mentioned that they do make repair rings, there was a repair ring (I believe, but they didn't bolt it to the floor) on top of the flange in the picture but it was cracked. I figure I can get a new ring like that and bolt it down, but how will I get the the drain to line up?
Would something like this work? Why are they not very popular among plumbers? How would something like this (or another solution) seal to the existing pipe?
Fortunately we have another bathroom we can use in the mean time, but I'm not sure we are in a position right now to have someone come replace the old flange as I imagine it would be a time consuming and expensive job. If you guys have any solutions or products you recommend that I could install myself I'm all ears.
You need another CAST IRON offset flange, but it has to be exactly like yours with the oval opening, (you may need to have a plumber locate one). The oval opening will make it easier for a plumber to refasten it to the pipe. The oval opening is also the reason the "repair rings" others have recommended will NOT work, nor will a plastic offset flange.
01-09-2012, 05:25 AM
Here is a link to a flange that should work for you once you remove the old one. It's the one they call torque set 1" off set.