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DIYMike
06-13-2005, 03:59 PM
Shoulda, coulda, woulda: Replaced the flange when I had easy access to the floor, raising the height to accommodate future 1 7/8" of tile/substrate.

didn't. oops.

Where I am: Tile complete. Net height differential from finished floor to Flange top: 1 3/8". (Easy access to complete PVC Flange surface. Flange is in good shape, bolted to the OSB subfloor. I've got 5/8" ply, 1/4" hardi, and 1/2" tile installed around that. No "easy" access to plumbing now.)

I've got a stack of white plastic 1/4" extenders that I think I can sililcone together and press into a pretty solid stack. I'm guessing 5 or 6 would do the trick.

Should I use silicone to attach the stack to the flange? There are screwholes aligned in the stack, but they do not allign with the flange holes. I would need to screw into the flange top, and that looks pretty risky.

Also, I tried using a "waxless" extender in another room, and was planning to use that, but the flange in this instance is angled and there is no room to get a vertical seal inside the flange. I liked the waxless idea, and the seal seemed to work well. Suggestions?

Thank you :)
- Michael

turtle
07-20-2005, 06:09 AM
Help , I'm confused. Just how do you put the flange over the tile? Do you drill through the tile for the screws to anchor the flange?We have 3 toilets that we put in porcelian tile and had a master plumber do the work, he did not do this he attached the flange extenders to the subfloor.The floor had been put around thetile and there was a 7 to 8 inch diameter around the existing flange.
Turtle

Gary Swart
07-20-2005, 12:16 PM
First let me tell you that this should have been posted as a new thread rather than an answer to a previous one. It's likely many will pass this over. Second, I'm perhaps a bit unclear on the question. You talk about flange extenders on other toilets, but I get the impression that this toilet is a totally new install. Here's how it should go. The flange is installed after the finished floor is down. The finished floor should go close enough to the opening to support the flange ring. It does not have to be perfectly fit as it will be under the potty. Assuming we are dealing with ABS or PVC, the flange is glued to the pipe that has been trimmed to the right length. The flange MUST be oriented so that the slots for the toilet bolts ( those 1 tee brass bolts) are in the proper location. They have to match the holes in the base of the toilet. After gluing the flange down in position, screw the flange through the floor and well into the subflooring. I prefer stainless steel screws for this, as large a gauge as the flange will accomodate, at least a #12. I trust this helps, but if not, try reposting as a new thread and probably some of the pros will pick it up.

srdenny
07-21-2005, 04:40 AM
http://www.siouxchief.com/Frm_MS.cfm

srdenny
07-21-2005, 04:41 AM
Try this link:
http://www.siouxchief.com/Frm_MS.cfm
Then under product search type in 886R
Good Luck!

turtle
07-21-2005, 06:08 AM
Thanks Gary, the problem is that the floors were put in around the existing toilet flanges, so there is a diameter of about 8-9 inches total of hole. The plumber who did the other 2 toilets put in flange extenders, but after cruising this site we question that method. There is one remaining toilet to be done. Is there a flange or kit that would span that size hole? In addition the original install really screwed up on the subfloor and we have only a 15/32 plywood subfloor that buts together at the flange hole, can the subfloor be reinforced from below? and how? I tied posting a new thread but it will not go thru.
Thanks turtle

Gary Swart
07-21-2005, 07:56 AM
Two things. #1 fire the plumber you had and #2 find and hire a real one. I don't see this as a DIY job.