problems with new pressure switch - did I screw something up????

fornarog · May 16, 2005

Yesteday, I installed a new Square D Pumptrol switch because my water was stopping completely and the re-starting after 10-15 seconds. The frequency and duration of the stops had both been increasing.

When I was replacing the nipple - it was clogged badly - in between the switch and the - checkvalve????? - I noticed water coming out of the nipple and had to screw on the pressure switch to stop this. This didn't occur until after I had cleaned some of the gunk out of the - checkvalve??? - with a screwdriver, like I had poked a hole in something...

The stoppages have ceased, but the switch seems to rapidly kick on and off when the water is running and there seems to be a SLIGHT drop in pressure - I felt it showering today - as well.

Does this require attention, or do I just need to fiddle with the pressure switch adjustment screws? If so, how do I go about adjusting.

Thanks,

Greg

CaptWally · May 18, 2005

I think you got the idea right but stopped too soon. Please clarify what you mean by checkvalve.... Because the tube from the pressure switch should go directly into a fitting on the pump. If you try to replace the presure switch while pressure is still on the system you are going to have problems! Turn the power off, and bleed the pressure off by opening a hose bibb, and then replace not only the switch but all the fittings incluting the tubing with brand new. Then once that is done repower and repressurize the system. If you have no air in the system the switch should work normally. It should work ok even if there is, but if there is anything that would restrict the pressure flow to the switch you will have the fluttering you are describing. Hence my suggestion of replacing all lines and fittings. If the rapid on and off switch action is still there then the switch needs adjustment. Follow the instructions inside the cap. A 3/8" nutdriver and care is all you need....

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fornarog · May 18, 2005

Thanks,

The"checkvalve???" I am referring to is the fitting that the nipple??? (tube about 3" long that the pressure switch screws onto) goes into. When I removed the old switch, and the nipple, the nipple was severely clogged. The fitting it screwed into was clogged as well, so I cleaned it out with a screw driver, which is when some water started to squirt out. I had already cut power to the pump and drained the lines using the utility faucet in the basement.

I didn't notice the adjustment instructions in the directions, didn't think to look under the cap!

Thank you!

This forum is excellent!

Greg

fornarog · May 18, 2005

captwally said:
I think you got the idea right but stopped too soon. Please clarify what you mean by checkvalve.... Because the tube from the pressure switch should go directly into a fitting on the pump. If you try to replace the presure switch while pressure is still on the system you are going to have problems! Turn the power off, and bleed the pressure off by opening a hose bibb, and then replace not only the switch but all the fittings incluting the tubing with brand new. Then once that is done repower and repressurize the system. If you have no air in the system the switch should work normally. It should work ok even if there is, but if there is anything that would restrict the pressure flow to the switch you will have the fluttering you are describing. Hence my suggestion of replacing all lines and fittings. If the rapid on and off switch action is still there then the switch needs adjustment. Follow the instructions inside the cap. A 3/8" nutdriver and care is all you need....

How do you re-pressurize the system (other than the lever on the pressure switch)?

Gary Slusser · May 18, 2005

You turn on the power to the pump and then turn that little handle on the side of the switch to Manual holding it there until you see 20+ psi on the guage and then flip it to Auto. Auto, Manual and Off is on the side of the cover.

It sounds as if you have a tapped check valve for the switch and guage. They are usually used when you don't have a tank tee type setup. You didn't need a new switch, you simply needed to clean the dirt out of the switch, its nipple and the nipple hole in the check valve.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

fornarog · May 25, 2005

I have a tee set up I think

from the water line coming in to the house, there is a tee connection. The nipple for the pressure valve screws into the top of the tee connection. This is where the water came out (even when the pump was not powered) after I "cleaned" it out with a screw driver. Is it possible I damaged this connector, and that is why the new pressure switch seems to cycle frequently when I have a faucet running? I haven't had the time to drain the tank and re-pressurize it yet because I spent the better part of Sunday replacing the hot water heater - aaarrgh!.

My nuetralizer doesn't seem to be doing a great job keeping the acidity under control. I haven't tested the water yet, but my gut tells me (as well as the green stains) that my copper is still getting eaten.

Gary Slusser · May 25, 2005

If you didn't drain the pressure tank and house if you didn't shut off the house, water will come out any fitting that is blocked and then cleaned/opened. If the tee is metal, I seriously doubt you hurt it.

The 'short' cycling is usually caused by insufficient air pressure in the pressure tank. Or a broken bladder with water on top of it. Shut off the peower to the pump. Shut off the water to the house. Drain the pressure tank. Check the air pressure and adjust to 1-2 psi less than the cut-in pressure switch setting. That's the lower number of the range: 30/50 gets 29-28 psi air pressure.

What type of filter do you have? If it backwashes, what backwash schedule do you have on the AN filter. Was it sized correctly for your water quality and volume of water use? What is you raw water pH? A pH test kit is only a few bicks at a pool or hardware store.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

fornarog · May 26, 2005

Gary,

Thanks.

I am going out of town this weekend, but will drain/re-pressurize the tank next week. I'll post how it goes.

I haven't tested the water for acidity yet, but will shortly. I have a manual backwash on the neutralizer. I try to do it monthly, but I must admit I am not to good at keeping up with it, could this be the root of the problem?

Thanks again to everyone connected with this site!!!!!

Gary Slusser · May 26, 2005

Monthly is way too long. I suggest no longer than every 6 days and usually less, 3-4 days, depending on what and how much of it is in the water, and how many people are use the water. Your filter ay be clumped and/or channeled. Unless it's way past time for more mineral. If it is, you won't get much buffering of the acidity.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

fornarog · May 26, 2005

Wow!

I'll step it up.

Greg

CaptWally · May 27, 2005

I love following these threads because my advice is not ignored, and i learn new things constantly.

problems with new pressure switch - did I screw something up????

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