Main Valve Leaking

The old college try · Jul 2, 2008

The main shutoff in my house located just before the meter leaks when turned off making it extremely difficult to solder connections to the main pipe. For now, I'm just going to install a 1/4 turn valve with compression fittings just after the meter. I'm wondering if it's possible to rebuild the gate valve, or does it have to be replaced completely? As you can see, the valve has been embedded in the wall making it difficult to work on. Is this a job completely left to a pro? Also, what's the process typically like to get the supply shut off outside by the City (Village)? If done by a pro, what kind of $ am I looking at? I appreciate your input.

Thanks.

TSPORT · Jul 2, 2008

I had the same situation a few years ago (mine leaked internally, not on the floor). I called the local water company, they dropped off the shut-off wrench at my house for no charge (nice guys!) and picked it up a few days later when I was done. Simple matter to shut the water off in the yard w/ the proper tool! Once the water was off outside the house, I took the gate valve apart. The washer was gone. The screw holding it in place was not brass and had mostly rusted away. Couldn't figure out how to get the old screw remnants out of the hole to put in a new one. As a last ditch effort, I stuck it in my glass bead cabinet (OK, any auto machine shop will have one). A minute or so of blasting removed every last bit of the old screw and left me with a perfectly shiny "new" brass threads. I reassembled the valve w/ a new washer, brass screw & packing and it has been perfect ever since. No need to try and remove the old valve and solder in a new. Give it a try. If the packing is just leaking, try tightening the nut. If it is leaking inside(not shutting off flow), maybe you will get lucky and have a brass screw still intact and just need a washer. As you can see in the pictures, the valve is awfully close to the finished wall with the cinder block about a half inch beyond in my basement.........TSPORT (Usually fearless DIY'er)

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Jimbo · Jul 2, 2008

A gate valve CAN be rebuilt, but the problem is that the parts are not standard. The gate, stem, and cap are all unique to your brand. you may or may not even be able to identify the brand, then you have to find identical parts.

Our meters are at the curb, and the curb stop there belongs to the utility, and they just lift the concrete lid off, reach in and turn it off! I don't konw how hard it is in your case to get it turned off outside. You might consider just leaving the gate valve alone and installing one of these: http://www.jomar.com/products/pdf/Finished%20PDF%20-%20for%20review/Add-A-Valve.pdf

The old college try · Jul 3, 2008

Valve w/compression

Is it a bad idea to place a valve with compression fittings in the vertical line just after the meter? Will it be prone to future leaking in this location?

rbird7282 · Jul 3, 2008

TSPORT said:
I had the same situation a few years ago (mine leaked internally, not on the floor). I called the local water company, they dropped off the shut-off wrench at my house for no charge (nice guys!) and picked it up a few days later when I was done. Simple matter to shut the water off in the yard w/ the proper tool! Once the water was off outside the house, I took the gate valve apart. The washer was gone. The screw holding it in place was not brass and had mostly rusted away. Couldn't figure out how to get the old screw remnants out of the hole to put in a new one. As a last ditch effort, I stuck it in my glass bead cabinet (OK, any auto machine shop will have one). A minute or so of blasting removed every last bit of the old screw and left me with a perfectly shiny "new" brass threads. I reassembled the valve w/ a new washer, brass screw & packing and it has been perfect ever since. No need to try and remove the old valve and solder in a new. Give it a try. If the packing is just leaking, try tightening the nut. If it is leaking inside(not shutting off flow), maybe you will get lucky and have a brass screw still intact and just need a washer. As you can see in the pictures, the valve is awfully close to the finished wall with the cinder block about a half inch beyond in my basement.........TSPORT (Usually fearless DIY'er)

Turn off the water out at the street and use a ball valve instead of a gate valve.

hj · Jul 3, 2008

valve

That was a globe valve you rebuilt, and no competent plumber would have installed it in the first place. Many things can cause a problem with a gate valve, and usually they are not repairable. Even the same make and model, after a few years, can be revised so that the parts are not interchangable. If you cannot find EXACTLY the same valve forget about parts from any other valve fitting yours.

The old college try · Jul 3, 2008

hmmm.. sounds like a job for a plumber unless i want to be without water for a couple of weeks.

Furd · Jul 3, 2008

Just install a new ball valve on the downstream side of the meter.

The old college try · Jul 4, 2008

Ok. That's what I'll do. I contacted the Village to find out the process for having the water shut off, then once it's off I'll solder in a ball valve after the meter just like you suggest. I've always been a little nervous about soldering ball valves with the concern that I may overheat the thing and it'll end up leaking, but I'm even more leary about using compression fittings on the main line. Any suggestions on how not to destroy the valve during soldering? I read some people suggesting that you should solder in the closed position help maintain the shape of the seal against the ball, and others say to only solder in the open position to avoid pressure during heating. Any thoughts?

Redwood · Jul 4, 2008

Sweat it in the open position and use a powerful enough torch that will heat it quick. The ony 1/4 turn ball valve I have ever seen ruined by sweating was one that the home owner used one of those toy torches on and baked the valve for a day and a half trying to get the joint hot enough to sweat it!

The old college try · Jul 4, 2008

I've been using mapp, so sounds like I shouldn't have any problems. Thanks for the input.

Furd · Jul 4, 2008

I don't like soldered valves so this is what I would do. Get the appropriate size threaded ball valve and copper thread adapters. Turn off the water at the valve just before the meter.

Cut the appropriate length out of the copper after the meter to allow the insertion of the new valve and threaded adapters. Solder an adapter to the downstream (house) copper and then disconnect the stub from the meter. You can use a wet vac or a bucket to catch the dribble from the leaking main valve.

Solder the threaded adapter on the stub and then using Teflon tape and paste screw the valve onto the stub and then this assembly to the previously soldered threaded adapter on the house line. Tighten the valve on both ends until the meter union aligns and then reattach to the meter.

The village doesn't need to know anything about it.

The old college try · Jul 4, 2008

Best idea yet as far as I'm concerned. I think that's what I'll do. The leak from the existing valve is slow enough that I can collect it in a shallow pail or tray in the time it will take to git er done. Man, I'm glad this forum exists.

The old college try · Jul 7, 2008

Done!

Well, I finally got a chance to get back into the basement to install my valves. I placed a ball valve for my main shutoff by disconnecting the supply line after the meter and sweating it in. My fears of ruining the valve with too much heat were fruitless... just heated quick with mapp and checked frequently with solder to ensure it didn't get too hot. Luckily reconnecting the pipe at the meter didn't result in any leaks. Installed a second ball valve with a drain just off the main line to allow the outside hose connection to be drained in winter. The darn thing has split twice on me now in the past four years. Anyway, thanks for your help. Hey, by the way, is it normal for city water to come into the house the color of coffee with alot of sediment. I never notice this out of the taps, but when I was running water full blast out of a 3/4" line in the basement, the water is really rusty. I'm assuming that my string filter and water softener take care of most of this.

Main Valve Leaking

Users who are viewing this thread

The old college try

Engineering Technician

Attachments

TSPORT

Member

Attachments

Sponsor

Paid Advertisement

Jimbo

Plumber

The old college try

Engineering Technician

rbird7282

New Member

hj

Master Plumber

The old college try

Engineering Technician

Furd

Engineer

The old college try

Engineering Technician

Redwood

Master Plumber

The old college try

Engineering Technician

Furd

Engineer

The old college try

Engineering Technician

The old college try

Engineering Technician

Similar threads