Worth it to replace anode?

[Borfnoo]

I've got a 50 gal Whirlpool electric water heater that has been running for 10 years pretty much untouched on city water with no softener. The warranty expired 4 years ago which means the stock anode is probably used up.

Is it even worth it to replace the anode at this point? My city water is quite good, however.. I get very little mineral build up on shower heads and faucets.

I'm reading horror stories about removing the rod and I'm wondering if it's even something I want to mess with.

 

[Reach4]

It's a close call IMO. I would, but I would expect to need an impact wrench to get the old one out. You need much less torque when putting the new anode in. I am not a pro.

However if you are not going to do it yourself, the thing to do is to wait and to get the water heater replaced after it leaks or stops working otherwise.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

I have had water heaters for over 60 years and have NEVER replaced the anode rod, nor have I replaced them in the thousands of heaters I have installed and serviced during that time. I think I have replaced about two anodes and the customers purchased them and had me install them.

 

[Jadnashua]

At ten years, taking the old ones out may cause more damage than leaving things alone.

If you really want to replace them and you get a new tank, you might want to consider removing the rod and replacing it with PTFE tape versus pipe dope, which will make it easier to get out when the time comes. they really get jammed in there tighter than probably needed at the factory.

All of the torque applied to remove an old one may further crack the porcelain lining, and the new anode may not help much. While a pain, it should be easier with a new one.

 

[Chefwong]

How would the porcelin crack. The engagement of the rod is only on the thread that is on the tank ?

 

[WorthFlorida]

The anode rod threaded fitting is welded to the steel tank. It would put a lot a force at the tank thus causing it to twist or flex at the weld thus cracking the porcelain on the inside. At these welds for the plumbing and the heating elements is where the tank will usually fail with leaks. When I sold my house the electric water heater was 17 years old and I only once I had to changed the thermostats. I did drain it once or twice and very little sediment and like yours, no sign of corrosion at these welds and no mineral deposits.

 

[Chefwong]

At the age we are speaking about, is the issue the factory torque that is applied or that+corrosion/mineral buildup.

--Which I can't fathom using, but with even a small drop of penetrating oil prior-- help to aid in removal of said torque required for removal. I saw HJ's post on never replacing it.

I've got a tank that is 3 years old. Replaced it right before the new EPA laws came into effect. Looking to maintain it as much as possible as the ~next tank~ will require redoing the vent, etc.

Re: the use of comment of tape on anode rod.
The issue re: torque is not the issue. I got impact guns that go as break as 1500ftlb ....not that I would use that to tighten in this application. Not concerned about it being easier or harder to remove. Should it be no tape so the metal on metal contact

 

[Jadnashua]

The tank itself isn't all that heavy gauge material. Removing a rusted in fitting will require some good torque. The coating on the inside of the tank isn't very thick, so depends on the tank not bending. Removing the anode may be risky if it wasn't dealt with when new. Offsetting that, the new anode will help to slow any reaction to the tank that might be exposed.

 

[Dj2]

Another vote to replace the WH.
You are already ahead of the curve, just replace the WH.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

I have had water heaters for over 60 years and have NEVER replaced the anode rod, nor have I replaced them in the thousands of heaters I have installed and serviced during that time. I think I have replaced about two anodes and the customers purchased them and had me install them.

I totally agree with HJ.... every anode rod I have ever tried to change out became a nightmare...
It takes a HUGE , MASSIVE socket and wrench and normally you need a cheater bar to get the rod to move......
and someone has to hold the heater in place so it dont move while doing this......

and you got to make sure your dont cold-cock
the guy holding the heater with the end of the cheater bar in case it slips off the nut.......

Dont touch it , let sleeping dogs lie or you will probably regret it......