What's the best quality check valve (brand name)

[Onokai]

I have a 110 foot deep submersible well. I have lived with it for 51 years. I am on my second pump (27 years now) its a Gould with Franklin motor. I also have a new Gould with a motor made in Mexico as the next one going it -along with new pipe and rope and new control box and well wire
I have had my bronze check valve fail at least three times in this 50 year period (not sure if there is any check valve built into these pumps?
My check valves are in well shed at top of 110 feet installed in schedule 80 pipe. I had to replace one yesterday on short notice and used a brass hardware 1 inch model. I plan on replacing pump and whole system later in spring with stuff noted above and have ordered a few stainless body check valves -I noticed McMastercarr sells a super stainless model as well for twice the price that handles just about any gas or water. My question is who makes the best one with the best seals. Brand names or model number would help. I hate the idea of pulling the well out at 110 feet to change a check valve so mine will again be in the pump shed. No easy task to pull the pumps as it takes 3 guys really to do it easy.
What's the best seal material and best all around check valve????I have iron in water as well. The guts usually are all toast when they fail.
Of course stainless spring and body are a must.

 

[Sylvan]

Stainless Steel (316) In Line Spring Check Valve, 150 lb Class

Features * ANSI Class 150lb * S.S. 316 Investment casting Body * Suitable for full range of liquids and gas * Temperature range: -60 to 450 degree Fahrenheit ...

www.directmaterial.com

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

People have spoken well of Simmons and Flomatic check valves. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/check-valve-ruptured.66622/ #2 They are spring-loaded. I am sure there are other good ones.

 

[Bannerman]

Above ground check valves are not recommended as they frequently cause many issues including water hammer which is likely the cause of the check valve failures (and other issues you likely have experienced). The only check valve in the system should be located directly at/within the pump.

Since each submersible pump is equipped with an internal check valve, for redundancy, you could install an additional spring loaded check valve directly on the outlet connection of the pump.

 

[Valveman]

It is not the quality of the check valve that counts, but how much abuse the check valve is dealing with. Using a normal pressure tank/pressure switch the pump will cycle on and off a lot. The pump is also pumping full pump flow into the pressure tank when the pump stops, and the check valve slams shut from the wide open position. The check valve gets thrown open and slammed shut with each pump cycle. Using a Cycle Stop Valve greatly reduces the number of pump cycles. Plus, the CSV makes the pump fill the tank at only 1 GPM flow rate. At 1 GPM the check valve is only open the thickness of a piece of paper when the pump shuts off. This eliminates the slamming and banging that causes even high quality check valves to fail.

 

[Onokai]

So I have two valves in hand one is a Flomatic with plastic guts stainless body-#4201SS2-inner parts are plastic with a stainless spring and a stainless screw in all plastic moving guts
The other is a Boshart all stainless with all stainless metal parts inside-made in Canada-Part # 17CVSS-100 O-ring-Vitron
I think this is better made and longer lasting than the Flowmatic
I dislike plastic moving parts
any feedback on these two 1 inch check valves?

 

[Reach4]

Put neither above ground. Did you understand the logic of not having an above ground check valve with a submersible pump?

Was the failure mode of your check valves that the housing cracked?

 

[Onokai]

Put neither above ground. Did you understand the logic of not having an above ground check valve with a submersible pump?

Was the failure mode of your check valves that the housing cracked?

No the guts disappeared
The check valve in pump is toast as well
I have a all new pump -line and wire going in later in spring so now its just add a check valve to get a few months out of old 27 years old pump . I'm not pulling it out until spring.
What's your choice on those two valves?

 

[Valveman]

Either of those should be good check valves. Don't know that the SS is any better than a plastic poppet.