What can this well bypass configuration look like?

[Lisa Childers]

I need to temporarily use an external water tote in place of my 93 year old 50ft well because of the water quality and the low yield. The different treatment/filtration configuration system recommended by several different sources are more expensive than drilling a new well AND laying the pipe for 100ft way!!

I plan on drilling a new well within the next 2 years but, in the mean time I need to bring in water. I've replaced all plumbing pipe (with PEX), supply lines, faucets & fixtures all the way back to the pressure tank (which I may want to replace that as well due to interior build up). I want to setup the tote(s) next to the pump house (which is directly against the house) and plug into the system (less than 30 ft of main line). The only options I see are:

1) Plug in after the well, & before pressure tank.
What are my options for pumps?
2) Bypass the pressure tank. Is this actually possible?
What type of pumps can do this?
3) What other devices do I need to make this work effectively?
4) And of course.... What am I missing? What am I not thinking about?

House setup is very small, less than 30 ft of main line. 1 person living while building a new house. 1 bathroom, 1 washing machine, 1 kitchen with ice-maker, no dishwasher. This location will convert later to seasonal worker and visiting relative lodging. Regular below freezing temps.
The only thing I ask for in configuring this is highest water line pressure possible.

I've been investigating possible configurations and the rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper. So I figured I needed to go to the place of knowledge and ask for suggestions and comments. Please & Thank-you.

 

[Reach4]

I am going to interpret "highest water line pressure possible." as being 80 psi. A 1/2 HP 10GPM submersible pump can usually do that. If you were really wanting higher pressure, you could do that. But you are unlikely to actually want that. That would be about what you could get with a 1 HP jet pump. The jet pump is louder, but goes outside the tank and sucks water.

A 1/2 HP 10GPM submersible pump could be placed on its sided in the tank in a flow inducer. Some tanks make that accessible and some do not. A 1/2 HP 7 GPM pump can make higher pressures, but will cost more -- it has more stages.

Read through https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/installing-storage-tank.88224/

https://www.plastic-mart.com/storage/ may be of interest.

If you have a pressure switch, you need a pressure tank at the pressure switch.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[RetiredInGueydan]

I need to temporarily use an external water tote in place of my 93 year old 50ft well because of the water quality and the low yield. The different treatment/filtration configuration system recommended by several different sources are more expensive than drilling a new well AND laying the pipe for 100ft way!!

I plan on drilling a new well within the next 2 years but, in the mean time I need to bring in water. I've replaced all plumbing pipe (with PEX), supply lines, faucets & fixtures all the way back to the pressure tank (which I may want to replace that as well due to interior build up). I want to setup the tote(s) next to the pump house (which is directly against the house) and plug into the system (less than 30 ft of main line). The only options I see are:

1) Plug in after the well, & before pressure tank.
What are my options for pumps?
2) Bypass the pressure tank. Is this actually possible?
What type of pumps can do this?
3) What other devices do I need to make this work effectively?
4) And of course.... What am I missing? What am I not thinking about?

House setup is very small, less than 30 ft of main line. 1 person living while building a new house. 1 bathroom, 1 washing machine, 1 kitchen with ice-maker, no dishwasher. This location will convert later to seasonal worker and visiting relative lodging. Regular below freezing temps.
The only thing I ask for in configuring this is highest water line pressure possible.

I've been investigating possible configurations and the rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper. So I figured I needed to go to the place of knowledge and ask for suggestions and comments. Please & Thank-you.

I have never heard of a new house being built before a viable well has been drilled. Have you been assured that the new well will provide more water at a higher quality?

 

[Fitter30]

One person uses around 125 gallons a day water. Submersible well pump laying on its side on bottom of tank with a well expansion tank and pressure switch that has been written. Q 300 gallons weighs 2550 plus whatever the tank weighs. Have any farm stores in your area? Check with them for a pump. Would think for drinking / cooking would be 5 gallon jugs. Bathing would be the tote and shower.

 

[FredG]

I have never heard of a new house being built before a viable well has been drilled. Have you been assured that the new well will provide more water at a higher quality?

It happens, but is a fool’s errand.

 

[Lisa Childers]

It happens, but is a fool’s errand.

I am going to interpret "highest water line pressure possible." as being 80 psi. A 1/2 HP 10GPM submersible pump can usually do that. If you were really wanting higher pressure, you could do that. But you are unlikely to actually want that. That would be about what you could get with a 1 HP jet pump. The jet pump is louder, but goes outside the tank and sucks water.

A 1/2 HP 10GPM submersible pump could be placed on its sided in the tank in a flow inducer. Some tanks make that accessible and some do not. A 1/2 HP 7 GPM pump can make higher pressures, but will cost more -- it has more stages.

Read through https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/installing-storage-tank.88224/

https://www.plastic-mart.com/storage/ may be of interest.

If you have a pressure switch, you need a pressure tank at the pressure switch.

Sorry for they delay no internet way up on the mountain. 80psi would be freaking awesome. But I'd be happy 60. Since posting I picked up a 550 gallon horizontal tank with a bulkhead at the bottom end. I'm going to place it beside the pump house (currently torn down and rebuilding as we speak) and tie into the new plumbing inside. I'll have to use a truck tank to bring water up to the location from about 10 miles away.

Yes I've actually read that thread several times before, and that guy is doing exactly what I want to do except I want to bypass the well entirely. I had the water tested twice. 1st time was from the old kitchen sink. The results made me drop the paper from fear of getting cancer just from the paper!! Since then every pipe, fitting, faucet & heater has been replaced all the way back to the pressure tank. Then the old section of the house boarded off. The 2nd test was taken from the well. The only things were a small amount of lead (probably from the original casing), elevated turbidity and a ton of iron and manganese so much so that without a whole house RO I'd be changing the iron filter every few days.

If I follow you correctly, the storage tank will supply water to the pressure tank just like the well does. The submersible pump will take the place of the pump down in the well. And I can accomplish that with a 1/2HP 10GPM submersible pump (7 will give higher pressure with higher price), and recommendations are to add a flow inducer sleeve. Especially if the 7GPM higher priced pump is used. The pressure tank I have is a 20 gallon with a 40-60 switch, and that being wired to the pump inside the tank will turn it on when necessary. Just like the well. The only added item would be the Stop Cycle Valve. Again recommendations are defiantly... especially if the higher priced 7GPM pump is used. I don't think the float switch in the drawing is necessary since there is no well to pull from when the level get low.
Oh well maybe a float switch that alerts me to go get more water. hmmm.. do they make such an animal? YEP Just asked Mr. Google and they do! Guess I will need THAT!

PS.. when you're talking about a submersible pump laid on its side.... all you mean is a regular well pump and the lift just isn't in play correct?

 

[RetiredInGueydan]

Maybe the pump house should contain this setup to prevent freeze damage.

 

[Reach4]

How will you connect the horizontal pump to the bulkhead at the bottom? I was thinking you would bring the connection in from the top. I was thinking a big port at the top, and you snake the L-shaped assembly in.

I guess I could imagine a pitless adapter shoe inside the tank, connected to the bulkhead port. Then drop the pump etc in from the top and slide the other part of the pitless in.

A bulkhead connector would work with a suction pump, such as a jet pump. Those are very popular. You would have to check the numbers to see how powerful of a jet pump you would need. The pump is outside of the tank then.

 

[Lisa Childers]

"How will you connect the horizontal pump to the bulkhead at the bottom"....
The pump supply line simply connects to a reducing fitting inside the 2" bulkhead. They can pump on a completely horizontal plane...can't they?

The tank as a 2.5" opening on top beside a larger 9" opening for filling. I assume the smaller hole is for venting purposes. And then the lower hole on the end.

Here is what I was thinking. Pump installed horizontally in a sleeve through the tank wall at the bulkhead. Then through the pump house wall and tee into the line between the existing well and the pressure tank with a cutoff to the well of course.

You mentioned a float switch. Yep. I was thinking a device that alerted to a low level but it needs to prevent the pump from operating. I forgot about that.
What else would be recommended to have in the configuration of devices?
I'm looking at Goulds 7CS05421C 4" Submersible Water Well Pump, 1/2hp ,1/60-115V , 2wire , 7gpm for the pump.

I would call a professional in but, the area is very remote and sparsely populated and getting there is not the easiest. So they typically either say they are really busy and it will be many weeks before they can get there or..... if they do show up, they price it really high hoping.... well you know the rest. So either I DIY or if I can eventually get someone there, I want to be fully educated.

 

[Reach4]

"How will you connect the horizontal pump to the bulkhead at the bottom"....
The pump supply line simply connects to a reducing fitting inside the 2" bulkhead. They can pump on a completely horizontal plane...can't they?

Yes. But how do you get the pump into place, and connected thru the bulkhead fitting? Ship-in-a-bottle techniques? With a horizontal aspect ratio tank, maybe your arms are long enough. I had been picturing a more vertical tank.

Do you already have the tank?

 

[Lisa Childers]

No don't think so there is a large hatch on the top. That's one thing I have already figured out lol