Well pump pressure very high

[Peter12]

Hi guys,
I'm having problems with my well pump. The pressure is very high! The pressure gauge goes up to 100 and the needle is all the way up. At first I tried to clean the contacts on the pressure switch but was still having problems, so last night I bought a new pressure switch (40-60psi, same as before), adjusted the tank pressure to 38. It was a bit low. As soon as I turned everything back on the water softener kicked on and everything seemed like it was working perfect. Switch was turning on at about 40 and turning off at about 63. When I woke up this morning it was back up to 100! The contacts on the switch are not touching. I can't understand how the pump can add so much pressure with the switch off???
Maybe the circuit is being completed some other way???
The only other thing I can think of is some sort of issue with the water softener. In the past I've noticed that on nights it recharges, when I turn the water on at a faucet or something there's air in the system. Maybe the water softener is building pressure somehow?
Someone help! I'm worried a pipe will burst if I don't figure this out quick

 

[WorthFlorida]

Are you reading the pressure at the tank? If you open the schrader valve to add or remove air, does any water spit out? If yes the bladder has ruptured inside the pressure tank. With little or no air inside the pressure tank, when water shuts off the pressure will spike when the flowing water hits the closed valve and the wall of the pressure tank. A water softener cannot add pressure.

You can turn off the power to the softener and give that a try. If pressure still builds turn off the well pump and do not open faucets or flush toilets. If the pressure builds up it's the water expanding from being heated in the water heater or furnace. Is there any expansion tank? Usually not with a well and pressure tank.

I'm on city water with a back flow preventer at the meter. Regular pressure is around 70 PSI and at night it would go up to 125 PSI. I replaced the WH with an expansion tank and now it tops out at 90PSI. Faucets and valves are usually rated at 150 PSI. Pipe is higher depending on the material.

 

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[LLigetfa]

If your water treatment system has a check valve, then expansion crated by the water heater can spike the pressure if there is no expansion tank or the tank is bad.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you open the schrader valve to add or remove air, does any water spit out?

That test is dubious if the schrader valve is at the very top of the tank since even a 90% waterlogged tank would still have 10% air at the top. A drawdown test would be more accurate.

 

[Peter12]

Update, softener is not the problem. I bypassed the softener and it's still giving me problem. Pressure switch is open, toggle switch is open. BUT when I turn the breaker off the pressure stops. So somehow the pump is on even with both switches open??? Can anyone explain that?

I'll check to see if water comes out of the pressure tank. The valve is at the top

 

[Peter12]

That test is dubious if the schrader valve is at the very top of the tank since even a 90% waterlogged tank would still have 10% air at the top. A drawdown test would be more accurate.

Pressure tank is empty of water,I can wiggle it, but has air. No water came of for the valve on top

 

[LLigetfa]

The only way a pump could keep running with the pressure switch contacts open is if there is if the pressure switch energizes a relay that gets stuck. Follow the wires.
Leave a tap dribbling and see if the pressure stays high. If the pressure drops slowly, the pump is not running continuously. A clamp-on ammeter on the breaker wire would also tell you if there is current draw.

Make sure there is not a second (remote) pressure tank on the system. If there is a tank buried in the yard and a second tank is installed further downstream near the pressure switch, the buried tank could fill to a higher pressure and then later "equalize", raising the pressure above the cut-off setting.

 

[Peter12]

The only way a pump could keep running with the pressure switch contacts open is if there is if the pressure switch energizes a relay that gets stuck. Follow the wires.
Leave a tap dribbling and see if the pressure stays high. If the pressure drops slowly, the pump is not running continuously. A clamp-on ammeter on the breaker wire would also tell you if there is current draw.

Make sure there is not a second (remote) pressure tank on the system. If there is a tank buried in the yard and a second tank is installed further downstream near the pressure switch, the buried tank could fill to a higher pressure and then later "equalize", raising the pressure above the cut-off setting.

You were right. It was a relay stuck closed. Didn't even know I had one. Thank you