Well pipe to tank break?

PhilSav

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Pressure loss on inlet side.
Goulds ½ hp shallow well pump, 20 gal Flex 2 PRO Water Tank,40-60 switch, check valve at pump inlet, 75' 1in underground poly pipe.
Pump normally runs fine with excellent pressure. Suddenly when not calling for water pressure drops on the inlet side from 60 to 40 then the switch activates. Takes about 20 min to lose pressure.
No evidence of any leak, drained tank and checked pressure. Just replaced check valves twice and no change.
Pump about 3 years old, tank 15.
 

Valveman

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Just replaced check valves twice and no change.
Valve(s) is the problem. Remove the check valve at the pump and use the foot valve as the only check and you won't lose prime.

PK1A Jet Pump with Foot Valve.jpg
 

GReynolds929

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Then you have a suction leak, a hole in the drop pipe, or the foot valve is bad.
 

PhilSav

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Then you have a suction leak, a hole in the drop pipe, or the foot valve is bad.
I'm still thinking leak in the underground poly pipe pump to tank. Filled tank to full @ 58psi. closed a shut off valve at the pump 1 1/2 outlet and closed the valve to the tank and valve tank to house. Waited 15 min and opened valves. Tank pressure dropped immediately, and switch kicked in at 40psi. with lot of air.
 

PhilSav

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Goulds J5S, Shallow Well Jet Pump, JS+ Series, 1/2 HP, 115/230 Volts, 1 Phase, 1-1/4" NPT Suction, 1" NPT Discharge, 16.5 GPM at 5 ft (30 psi), Cast Iron Body
stays primed after initial primed install but does require check valve.
 

Bannerman

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tried without a check valve in the past and it was impossible to prime.
That is one of the reasons for only using a foot valve. A foot valve incorporates a check valve, located at the lowest point down in the well, thereby permitting the entire length of suction pipe to be fully filled for priming, while preventing the priming water from flowing back out into the well.
 

RetiredInGueydan

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Pressure loss on inlet side.
Goulds ½ hp shallow well pump, 20 gal Flex 2 PRO Water Tank,40-60 switch, check valve at pump inlet, 75' 1in underground poly pipe.
Pump normally runs fine with excellent pressure. Suddenly when not calling for water pressure drops on the inlet side from 60 to 40 then the switch activates. Takes about 20 min to lose pressure.
No evidence of any leak, drained tank and checked pressure. Just replaced check valves twice and no change.
Pump about 3 years old, tank 15.
What is the location, size and type of well being used? If the 1/2 hp pump is working with a 40/60 pressure switch the water is very shallow, or the pump is a high pressure type. Does the pressure drop from 60 to 40 suddenly, or does it take 20 minutes?
 

PhilSav

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Shallow well about 20' deep 75' from house. Excellent pressure/flow to 2 story home. Have an old Barretts cycle stop valve which gives me a consistent 50psi pressure during showers, etc. Thinking of running a temporary above ground poly pipe to see if that solves the issue. The testing of poly pipe shut off at both ends - pump outlet and tank inlet - causing a loss of pressure, it just makes common sense the water is leaking at the poly. When that does occur, pump still maintains prime due to check valve.
If it is the underground leaking, going to cost $$. as per code needs to be buried 5 ft (1 ft below 4 ft frost line).
 

Valveman

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A Barret copy of a Cycle Stop Valve? There is a blast from the past for sure. Lol!

A J5S can barely build 60 PSI. I would not use a 40/60 switch as the pump will get hot before it gets to 60, which maybe what got the pipe hot and caused the leak. Maybe need to move the check valve to the well head and try to make it work like a sand point well.
PK1A with Sand Point.jpg
 
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