Water supply layout design

Looks like a repipe. Here are some tips I used.

Looks like trunk and branch PEX runs.

Main trunks need be Sioux Chief 1" PEX A pipe. Never heard any negative anything about Sioux Chief. Got it in my house and totally pleased. No law suits against them either like Uponor.

Branches needs to be 3/4 PEX A to showers and 1/2" to sinks and toilets. Bath tubs are 3/4 PEX A as well.

I would definitely use PEX A over PEX B. You will see a minimum 40% water volume AND pressure drop using PEX B. The more PEX B fittings the more water loss you will have. It is DEFINITELY noticeable compared to say full flow 3/4 copper or PEX A. There is your tip on PEX A vs. B. PEX A is full flow of rated pipe size.

Neighbor had another under slab leak. Plumbers patched around 48 year old copper with a 3/8" PEX B SLEEVE line back INTO old copper. They barely have water outside at the spickets, toilet is darn near silent when flushing (shutoff wide open now) and sink has a trickle of water. This was last week. They are getting a full PEX A repipe.

Boshart stainless steel PEX fittings all the way. That and Sioux Chief PEX A pipe for the win.

Insulate BOTH hot and cold lines, very important. No outside wall runs period.

Lastly, if possible, I would run 2 ball valves after the whole house shutoff. One ball valve to control one side of the house. Other ball for another side of the house. This is to isolate future leaks. You need water for TOILETS and sinks while you are either fixing it yourself or waiting on a plumber. Very nice design and really a must have for everyone. Can't live without water.
 
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What is the consensus here on using hammer arrestors on Pex. im not seeing anything conclusive through my internet searches.
 
I would not put a water hammer arrestor for a tub, shower, or lavatory, because those close slowly. I don't have one for the toilet. I think at least some of the float valves are made to close slowly.

So for washing machines, it could definitely make sense. It could for dishwashers.

But your point was mainly wondering, since the PEX is going to be more resilient than other forms of pressure pipe, would there be cases where you would forego the arrestor when you might have used the arrestor for copper or CPVC.
 
both of my bathroom had them on the shower valves. Always thought it was just common practice. When i re did my kids bathroom i kept the copper so i left the arrestors.
This will be my first time using pex, so ive been overthinking and doing as much research as possible so i don't screw this up lol
 
My kitchen sink slams the pipes.
When you turn off the water by hand? I presume that if you go a little slower, that does not happen.

Oatey 34465 has both male and female 3/8 inch compression connections, so that could be added in.
 
When you turn off the water by hand? I presume that if you go a little slower, that does not happen.

Oatey 34465 has both male and female 3/8 inch compression connections, so that could be added in.
Just installed a stainless cash acme regulator valve. Sitting at 45psi now. No more water hammer slamming the pipes. I had 82psi before.

Sure slower would halt the hammering. Wife slams the faucets closed though LOL.
 
Where does everyone get their PEX at? Big box store stuff ok?
As good as any. Most have a 25 year warranty, for what that is worth???? Some make you use their fittings to get that 25 years specifically Uponor.

I prefer Sioux Chief PEX A and Boshart stainless steel fittings. Best recipe right now for PEX supplies. Not one bad word against Sioux Chief that I have read.
 
Keep the cold main at 3/4 as long as you can before branching down. It’ll help with pressure when multiple fixtures run at once. Most fixtures reduce to 1/2 at the valve anyway, so feeding with 3/4 just gives you a buffer.
 
As good as any. Most have a 25 year warranty, for what that is worth???? Some make you use their fittings to get that 25 years specifically Uponor.

I prefer Sioux Chief PEX A and Boshart stainless steel fittings. Best recipe right now for PEX supplies. Not one bad word against Sioux Chief that I have read.
I would expect your pipe warranty to remain at 25 years even if you have a differant manufactures fittings for example a sharkbite shouldnt void a warranty on piping if the defect is unrelated like 3 feet away in the middle of a run. some require a training certificate for warranty as well
 
Is it better to use the bend support brackets where I can? Or should I use fittings to make 90 degree turns always?
Especially when going into the fixtures themselves?
 
Is it better to use the bend support brackets where I can? Or should I use fittings to make 90 degree turns always?
Especially when going into the fixtures themselves?
The non expert in me would say use the Boshart stainless sweeping 90's. The bend brackets, in my opinion, stress the pipe. Would they last a good time, probably. Pipe wants to stay straight as it was formed when made. I would sleep better with the Boshart's.
 
The non expert in me would say use the Boshart stainless sweeping 90's. The bend brackets, in my opinion, stress the pipe. Would they last a good time, probably. Pipe wants to stay straight as it was formed when made. I would sleep better with the Boshart's.
I couldn't find all the fittings i need in the Boshart stainless but got all the 1/2 in stuff. Thanks
 
If you are going with Delta faucets , which would be my choice, I suggest you go with the Delta 1700 series because
it allows you to gauge the amount of pressure and volume control coming through the faucet... The cheaper models made by delta
are basically full force when you turn the handle on....
Went with the multichoice valves with integrated diverter.
I'm having a hard time choosing the trim though. most say you can control the temp and flow, but some have 2 handles, and some have only one. Is the 2 handle what I'm looking for, to have true control?
 
Bought a couple of those, didnt see any T's. But it's fine, they actually came in today and the difference in the opening is minimal
 
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