Washing machine supply valve replacement

[Mark_F]

Hi. I have old gate valves on the supply to our washing machine. See attached photo. I want to replace them with new ball valve’s. I am not 100% sure if I should order compression fitting or MIP. I see the pipe dope on the threads and so I am thinking MIP but the nut looks like it may be a compression fitting. So…not sure.

I am thinking of ordering the valves: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-62...gle-Hose-Boiler-Drain-Valve-LF-Brass-Pkg-of-2

Thanks in advance for any help! (I am also going to replace supply hoses w stainless steel hoses.)

 

[Fitter30]

Take a pic of the old valves.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mark_F]

Take a pic of the old valves.

Hmmm. I included a photo of one of the existing valve in my original post above. Here it is again. (hot and cold valves are the same)

 

[Slomoola]

Is this what you have? Purchasing link is at the bottom of this.

Everbilt 1/2 in. COMP x 3/4 in. MHT Chrome Plated Brass Washing Machine Valve VWMFRTD3EB - The Home Depot

Minimize the risk of flooding if a washing machine hose bursts with this Everbilt Brass Compression x MHT Washing Machine Pressure Regulating Valve.

www.homedepot.com

 

[Reach4]

Is this what you have? Purchasing link is at the bottom of this.

If it is, the installer should not have used PTFE tape. A bit of lube or compound on the ferrule and threads would be a good idea for compression.

 

[Mark_F]

That is part of my uncertainty. The valves were installed by a licensed professional plumber @40 years ago. I think the threads have teflon tape and/or thread compound on them. That makes me think i need male Pipe thread versus compression. But, the large nut at top has that beveled appearance that makes me think it could be compression fitting.

I want to replace with the 1/4 turn ball valves like in the link in post above. These are not available to me locally I have to mail order these. So, I hope to get it right qmd I am reluctant to shut iff the water and etc to take one off and confirm what it is and then wait to get replacements in the mail.

It may be too difficult for anyone to make the identification based on the photo, thanks for your replies anyway!

 

[Slomoola]

Take another picture of the pipe if you can. Further up the valve.

To me looks like a compression fitting then pipe thread.

Why, are these leaking? I don't see any leaking evidence. You just looking to replace something? That is the cleanest 40 year old valve I've seen.

 

[Mark_F]

Hi and thanks for your reply. The nut at top of photo is as high as can be seen. It goes up against the top of the metal washer, valve and drain discharge box and then drywall above.

I don’t understand “compression fitting then pipe thread”. Can male pipe thread go into a compression fitting?

The nut at top in my photo has that beveled edge like the photo in your post of the chrome gate valve. So, maybe a compressions fitting but then…the pipe dope and thread tape.

We have very pure water so i guess that’s why it looks so good. The hot valve is leaking abit. I tightened the packing nut and that helped, there is mineralization on top of the handle, the valve stem is kind of rusted, it squeaks when turned, it’s very old and I think ball valves are better than gate valves. We rent out our house periodically a month at a time and so I am trying to be proactive in avoiding problems.

Thanks agian!

 

[Slomoola]

Somehow that nut attaches to some flavor of pipe. Most of the time when you see a hex nut, I think compression fitting.

 

[GReynolds929]

In my experience it is a mip valve into a female adapter.

 

[Mark_F]

Thank you, it’s helpful to know that configuration is possible, I was not sure. I going to order male mip vs compression to start with.

 

[John Gayewski]

The new oatey ball valve washing machine boxes are replaceable. You should open the wall, redo the piping, install a new box with the valves right side up (instead of upside down like they are now), and install the replaceable (two piece) ball valve type.

Any valve you install upside down will fail fairly quickly vs one with the handle on top. The handles freeze with minerals and sediment when installed upside down and are useless after some time. If your current valves were installed right side up I would just say to rebuild them, but it's not really worth it as they are.

 

[Mark_F]

That makes perfect sense and is clearly the best and most pro way. But I got 40 years out of the existing upside down valves. I am 67 now and if I can get 20 more years without turning the battle into a war….