Vent relocation, new drain install

arod0422

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Great! Thanks again for all your help.

Cutting the sub floor where that particular part of the pipe isn't difficult, I do see an issue for me of reinstalling the subfloor as I would not have access to the next floor truss on one side.
 

arod0422

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Is there a maximum length allowed for the distance between the drain fixture and the P trap?

i realized the i will be about 5 inches higher the subfloor once the base is of the platform is tiled.
 

wwhitney

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Is there a maximum length allowed for the distance between the drain fixture and the P trap?
Yes, IPC 1002.1 says that the fixture outlet to the trap weir (height of water within the trap when it is full) is to be at most 24" vertically. Horizontally, it's maximum 30" center to center between the fixture outlet and the trap inlet.


Cheers, Wayne
 

arod0422

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Thank you!
I should be ok but i will get some better measurements to confirm.

I still need to research how I'm going to accomplish this raised wet room idea, but that might be a topic for a different thread or possibly a different forum.
 

arod0422

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Finally getting to start this.
Would it be a problem to use a street 45 right after the 45 to go straight down on the vent pipe side?
Im only thinking of this because to the left will be a drain pipe and it has to cross over to the right once in the floor to tie into the shower drain and I'm thinking that will be a problem.
1000011013.jpg
 

Reach4

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Would it be a problem to use a street 45 right after the 45 to go straight down on the vent pipe side?
I don't see a problem, other than the fitting will go in farther when you glue it up than when you dry-fit.

Im only thinking of this because to the left will be a drain pipe and it has to cross over to the right once in the floor to tie into the shower drain and I'm thinking that will be a problem.
I did not follow that, but if you are only explaining why you are wanting to use the two 45s, then I don't think it changes anything. If you think that introduces a new problem, then maybe somebody will understand that problem.
 

arod0422

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Thanks reach, I understand the fittings will go in more, the picture was really just to show the placement of the fittings. Im trying to avoid a truss.
I was just looking for clarification on whether basically making an "s" with the 45"s would be allowed.
That would solve a problem I believe I'm going to have if I stick with the original offset planned
 

arod0422

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Hello all,

Need advice on the best way to proceed.

I'm getting some help over at john bridge on how to go about making this shower/ freestanding tub wet room.
The consensus over there is i cannot use a drop in style drain for the tub.
Which screws up most of my plan as far as finishing the rough in plan. according to code i need to have a mechanical connection between the tub and its drain.
A trap adapter is what's being suggested. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...r-with-Washer-P-Nut-PVC00104P0800HD/203390996
Seems like it's going to be a real PIA to install when it's done, as the tub i was planning to get sits flush with the tiled floor. But i got some help on how to maybe install it and i think i could get it to work.

My question is, how do i rough that in? and how do i waterproof it?
My plan is to float a dry pack shower pan.
 

arod0422

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Has to be above the finished tile is what i understood.

Install would be:
set the tub drain pipe into a tightened trap adapter, then set the tub into place, then set the pretty parts of the tub drain to the tub down pipe

Wont fly?
 

Reach4

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Has to be above the finished tile is what i understood.
A trap adapter connects to the trap. The tub trap is under the floor.

How could that be "above the finished tile"? I think what you are picturing is different from what I am picturing.
 

arod0422

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Thats the way they suggest I use it. I'm just not sure about the waterproofing. doesn't seem to be a second line of defense if the sealant ever fails.

Unless anyone has any other suggestions, this is the best i got over there. All the other options would not be code complaint.
I don't mind breaking a few rules, but I'd like to make this to code.
 

Reach4

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Nice drawing! Could it be that the pipe you label as tub tail pipe is from just the overflow, and the trap is lower?

If that slip joint stays accessible due to an access panel, then that should be fine.
 

arod0422

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Its a freestanding tub, the tail pipe screws onto the bottom of the tub right at the drain hole.
 

arod0422

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Free standing. And yes that was what I was planning to use, but since the tub will be in the shower the guys over there are telling me I can't use that. Because the whole are is considered a wet area. If i had some sort of barrier between the tub and shower area then i could.Doesn't make sense to me but according to them it would not be to code.
 

GReynolds929

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Does the waterproofing membrane not work with that drain? Doesn't make sense to me either. Divided or not the floor should be waterproofed, so if it can be waterproof separately, why can't it be waterproof together? Doesn't seem like it would be any different than waterproofing a shower drain.

Hmmm, after reading the instructions there is a note that the drain is to be installed in a dry area not expected to be in contact with water, and that sheet membranes are not compatible, so it is not like a tile shower drain where the membrane is sandwiched and all water is directed into drain. Seems like there should be a better product/method than stubbing up a trap adapter and waterproofing with caulking....
 
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arod0422

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Im not 100% percent sure but don't think they work with the membrane like a regular drain. There's no weep holes and all that.
 
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