Utility room plumbing in a freeze prone home.....

[cdherman]

Ok, I penciled this out to ask a question. First off -- no codes apply where this is going. No inspectors. Its in wild and wooly western KS, rural etc. BUT -- I'd still like to do things sorta right! I have understood I need a 3" main in the crawlspace, but planning on 2" in the wall. The drawing is OFF -- so I will not have a tilt in the wrong way, have no fear.

Issues are that I really don't want to extend the vent trough the roof at this time. Its a steel roof and access to the attic is problematic due to old wiring being draped all over. So I'd like to put an air vent in a closet for now. Nice and accessible. The main stack of the house is also vented into the attic, and we don't have problem with odors. Its of course a septic system, so its not attached to a muni sewer system, so lots of gas is not an issue.

LAST ISSUE -- It freezes there. And for now, we winterize and walk away. I want to plum things for a house that will not be freezing. So my diagram is based on such. But my intent is to drain the washer into the utility tub, and then just put RV antifreeze into that trap when leaving. MY PLAN is to plum it for long term use as standard, but FILL THE WASHER P-TRAP with antifreeze and leave it. So leave the washer trap filled with antifreeze long term. (Getting guests to pour RV antifreeze into a washer box is a pain)

But will the air valve slowly *suck* the antifreeze out of the washer trap and then it will freeze someday? This is my concern....

(Discussion about winterizing washers should be ignored -- I think I have that figured out.)

 

[Reach4]

I don't see a problem with the RV antifreeze getting sucked out. If the 3 inch is empty, there is a path to the air vent anyway. So I don't see a significant vacuum developing.

I also wonder if water freezing in a trap typically destroys the trap, since the water is not constrained.

I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Storm rider]

I also wonder if water freezing in a trap typically destroys the trap

Yes, it can. I've seen it happen more than once.

 

[John Gayewski]

A septic tank usually has worse sewer smell than a city sewer.

Your going to get sick. Vent these things out through the roof. At least the main stack, there are bugs and all kinds of nasty things happening in your attic. Also a metal roof boot is by far the easiest type of boot to install with great success.

 

[cdherman]

A septic tank usually has worse sewer smell than a city sewer.

Your going to get sick. Vent these things out through the roof. At least the main stack, there are bugs and all kinds of nasty things happening in your attic. Also a metal roof boot is by far the easiest type of boot to install with great success.

Main stack is vented into the attic. The attic space is well vented. The house is occupied sparsly. I think if it were used 24x7 might have to fix that. It has a septic tank, but no field -- open end into a pit that stays dry. Even then, no odors. This is a place where there are always winds and heck, the stench from feedlots is so much more prevalent (though not around the house).

I mainly want to plumb it in a fashion that will a) work for now b) allow for replacement of air valve if needed c) allow for fixing it right by someone down the road.

I want the utility room to look and function correctly.

Rest of house is over 100 yo, farm house that had no running water till 1952. Its a hodge podge of compromises. I try to make sure it doesn't burn down! On a plus side -- how many old farm houses in the middle of no where have fiber optic internet!!!! Long story how that came to pass......